E-brake Issue after pad change

Hooligan317

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*Long read warning*

Recently took my 19 CTR to a local (reputable) speed shop to complete a third party tech-inspection that PCA requires for HPDE participants. While I had that being done, I also had them go ahead put new pads in front and rear. The car was put into maintenance mode, pads changed, and then brought back out of maintenance mode. Ever since, the issue is that the car seems to think the E-brake is engaged when it isn't, and it's constantly saying that there's an, "ELECTRIC PARKING BRAKE PROBLEM," and will tell you to release the parking brake over and over if you drive the car in the current state.

So far, the shop has tried a number of things, including taking the car to Honda to use their scan tool to "recalibrate" the E-brake - didn't work. They've replaced the actuators - didn't work. They purchased the Autel scan tool some other threads with similar issues have referenced and tried that route - didn't work. The most recent move was to take it back to Honda again and I'm currently waiting to hear how that goes.

In in the interim... any thoughts/suggestions? Anyone had this issue and been able to resolve it? I've read a few threads that sounded similar - one owner seemed to have it randomly go away, and the other suggested making sure the black and white wires were reconnected properly.

TLDR - Changed brake pads, getting e-brake error now. Tears.
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GraphiteAZ

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I would speak with a lawyer if they're not willing to provide a full refund and also pay for honda to fix the car. This is why the dealer is advantageous, as you can get honda involved if need be.

It sounds like the PCA recommended shop had no idea what they were doing and weren't qualified to work on your car.
 
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Hooligan317

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I would speak with a lawyer if they're not willing to provide a full refund and also pay for honda to fix the car. This is why the dealer is advantageous, as you can get honda involved if need be.

It sounds like the PCA recommended shop had no idea what they were doing and weren't qualified to work on your car.
At this stage I'm not worried that they'll do the right thing, no matter the outcome. I'm purely trying to assist in finding the solution.

I can also say with confidence, while they may not have done a lot of pad changes on CTR's, it's a highly qualified shop.
 

GraphiteAZ

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At this stage I'm not worried that they'll do the right thing, no matter the outcome. I'm purely trying to assist in finding the solution.

I can also say with confidence, while they may not have done a lot of pad changes on CTR's, it's a highly qualified shop.
From my point of view it looks like they missed a part of the qualification.
 

ez12a

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I've read the harness connecting the actuators is easily broken. I would go with those next as they're inexpensive to replace.
 


redwing497

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This literally just happened to me as well. At the local Honda dealership. Swapped pads front and rear. Same issue.

When I got in the car to leave, the car was in gear and no ebrake on. Don’t know how long it was sitting like that.
 
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Hooligan317

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Closing the loop on this: The Carbotech XP8's for the rear, were 2mm thicker than the OEM rear pad, which as was apparently throwing the e-brake for a loop. Putting a fresh set of OEM rear pads on the rear made the problem go away.
 

fatherpain

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Glad to hear you were able to resolve this and thank you for sharing.

May I ask what the thickness dimensions were for either the OEM or the carbotechs so will be able to avoid the same issue in future?

Closing the loop on this: The Carbotech XP8's for the rear, were 2mm thicker than the OEM rear pad, which as was apparently throwing the e-brake for a loop. Putting a fresh set of OEM rear pads on the rear made the problem go away.
 
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Hooligan317

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Glad to hear you were able to resolve this and thank you for sharing.

May I ask what the thickness dimensions were for either the OEM or the carbotechs so will be able to avoid the same issue in future?
Sure thing, I should have included that. The OEM rear pads were 14mm, and the Carbotech's were 15.25mm. Such a small difference, it's crazy.
 

redwing497

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Hooligan and I were keeping each other updated on the same situation we were both going through. Just wanted to confirm that indeed the thickness of the friction material was causing the issue. I'm not sure of the thickness in mm, but the Hawk Performance Ceramics I was having the dealer put in were WAY thicker than OEM, and it was making the e-brake actuator go crazy. OEM pads went back in and the problem went away. So I guess, if any of you are looking to replace the rear pads, confirm the thickness first before you buy them.
 


ElementalHonda

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Wow, this is the reason i'm not a fan of the electronic E-Brake in the new Hondas. Sucks that such a small difference in pad size throws off the car. Glad yall got it resolved though.
 

Jpierro79

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You do NOT need to put it in maintenance mode to change the rear pads. I’m glad you resolved your problems but you can’t honestly blame the shop 100 percent. Aftermarket suppliers just throw things at people that sound good but aren’t necessary. Like thicker than stock pads. I’d rather get a thinner pad that has a better compound than try to make up fir it with more pad. I bought winmax v3 front and back from evasive Motorsports. Way more grip than stock with stop tech cross drilled and slotted front and rear rotors. 2 drawbacks one they sometimes squeal like a pig and if you press the brake hard you can hear the slots because the bite is so strong. It stops way better and less abs activation cause the pads dont chatter like stock do. Chatter not warped. I’m referring to slip and grip under extreme pressures. Like running your hand across a smooth but slightly sticky surface it won’t stay in contact.
with the better pads it not only stops with way less brake pressure I can actually apply more total pressure.
 
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Hooligan317

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You do NOT need to put it in maintenance mode to change the rear pads. I’m glad you resolved your problems but you can’t honestly blame the shop 100 percent. Aftermarket suppliers just throw things at people that sound good but aren’t necessary. Like thicker than stock pads. I’d rather get a thinner pad that has a better compound than try to make up fir it with more pad. I bought winmax v3 front and back from evasive Motorsports. Way more grip than stock with stop tech cross drilled and slotted front and rear rotors. 2 drawbacks one they sometimes squeal like a pig and if you press the brake hard you can hear the slots because the bite is so strong. It stops way better and less abs activation cause the pads dont chatter like stock do. Chatter not warped. I’m referring to slip and grip under extreme pressures. Like running your hand across a smooth but slightly sticky surface it won’t stay in contact.
with the better pads it not only stops with way less brake pressure I can actually apply more total pressure.
Def wasn't the shops fault. We all learned something in the process. All good!
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