DIY oil change easy on the Civic?

fjrman

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This engine has an aluminum oil pan. My last Honda had a steel oil pan.

Steel threads can likely take more abuse from strong-armed mechanics.

Using a torque wrench is overkill for this procedure. Just get the bolt snug using a short wrench after contacting the washer. I've never had one leak after a change.

Most torque specs generally require clean, dry threads. Maybe Honda has provided this spec knowing the drain bolt threads are oily. When it was first installed at the factory the bolt threads were likely dry.
 

dick w

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Most torque specs generally require clean, dry threads. Maybe Honda has provided this spec knowing the drain bolt threads are oily. When it was first installed at the factory the bolt threads were likely dry.
Guaranteed that Honda installs the drain bolt originally with a torque controlled tool that is regularly calibrated.
 

fjrman

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My drain bolt was very, very tight from the factory.

The drain bolt on my Japanese motorcycle was also extremely tight from the factory. So tight in fact that I debated taking it to the dealer to let them remove the bolt. I didn't want to be responsible for stripping the threads from the aluminum oil pan.

Some, with bikes identical to mine, have stripped their oil pan threads when replacing the bolt during an oil change. They used a torque wrench and the torque spec. ( 31 lb-ft) which Yamaha provided. A 17 mm socket fits this bolt.
 

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The factory bolts are of course going to be torqued, since power/automated tools by nature torque to a specific point, and it would be very easy for them to dial that back to a set rating.
 


Texchappy

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Anyone use a topsider, especially if not changing the filter?
 

Swordfish

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I bought two jackstands at walmart for less than ten bucks each, I think. Then I used the scissors jack to put the front end on the jackstands. It worked pretty good, and I got the car high enough to get under it comfortably. Changed the oil in about an hour. And I changed the filter, which Honda doesn't change on the first oil change. The original equipment Honda oil filter only costs about five dollars, so I don't understand the logic of not changing it. To save five dollars? really???

Do you just use the stock jack stands and crank up the side then put the stands? If so is there enough room to momentarily put the stand while the jack is supporting it? Is the front and back jack points pretty wide?

I wasn't sure how wide the room is to use the stock jack and put the stand as well.

If I can avoid getting a totally seperate jack that would be ideal as my garage is already completely full.
 

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Do you just use the stock jack stands and crank up the side then put the stands? If so is there enough room to momentarily put the stand while the jack is supporting it? Is the front and back jack points pretty wide?

I wasn't sure how wide the room is to use the stock jack and put the stand as well.

If I can avoid getting a totally seperate jack that would be ideal as my garage is already completely full.
It is not wide enough. You would need to support your car at a spot which is not a jacking point. I wouldn't do that.
 

civicdabest-foo

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I've personally never seen anyone anywhere use a torque wrench to tighten an oil drain plug. And I've seen a LOT of oil changes. :)
Just use a new crush washer, hand snug the plug and you'll be fine.
For experienced folks yes this is fine. But for someone like the OP who may be trying this on a new car, highly recommend torquing it. Also a friend took his Camry to a Toyota dealer for an oil change, when he went for an oil change months later at a drive in lube shop, they reminded him that the drain bolt was dangerously not tight enough. Dealers make mistakes too. Torquing is highly recommended.
 


civicdabest-foo

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Do you just use the stock jack stands and crank up the side then put the stands? If so is there enough room to momentarily put the stand while the jack is supporting it? Is the front and back jack points pretty wide?

I wasn't sure how wide the room is to use the stock jack and put the stand as well.

If I can avoid getting a totally seperate jack that would be ideal as my garage is already completely full.
Trust me, it is not possible to jack up the car using one of the reinforced tabs on either side and then slide a jack stand under that reinforced tab. I have seen people try and squeeze a jack stand under the reinforced tab while the scissors were holding up the car on one end of the reinforced tab and then they bent the tab. I have seen tiny hydraulic jacks here in Canada selling for $70 USD that are about the size of a 27 inch computer monitor in terms of floor area. It is a good investment. Remember, these tools will also allow you to do brake bleeding, tire rotations, CVT fluid change, and replacement of struts if you choose to go the DIY route.
 

Swordfish

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For experienced folks yes this is fine. But for someone like the OP who may be trying this on a new car, highly recommend torquing it. Also a friend took his Camry to a Toyota dealer for an oil change, when he went for an oil change months later at a drive in lube shop, they reminded him that the drain bolt was dangerously not tight enough. Dealers make mistakes too. Torquing is highly recommended.
It is not wide enough. You would need to support your car at a spot which is not a jacking point. I wouldn't do that.
The front jack there is a spot somewhat far back so I can use the lever and lift it up and slide the jacks.

Where do I use the lever floor jack to bring up the rear ? I was going to use jack stands to lift up one side, swap the tires (rotate), then do vice versa for the other side.
 

Swordfish

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This video above it looks like the guy has a Kia is jacking up the car then sliding the jack stand. So this is not suggested as what he is doing for the jack stands ?
 


 


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