Stea1thninja
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I recently installed a Rockford Fosgate sub in my EX-T and figured I would document the process.
Materials:
Rockford fosgate P300-10
Boss Audio Kit2 Amp install kit
Optional - plug-n-play speaker adapter to avoid cutting\splicing factory wiring harness
Step 1: Power wire through the firewall
The hardest part is routing the power wire from the battery to the trunk so I got that out of the way first. The easiest method is to tape a piece of wire (I used part of a metal hanger) onto the power wire and push it through the grommet used for the hood latch. In order to get access you will need to remove the plastic cover that is around the hood release. It just snaps off if you pull on it. It can be helpful when pulling the wire through the grommet if you lube it with some soapy water.
With the panel removed
Grommet we are going through
before being pushed through
Step 2: Routing power wire
Now that the power wire is through the firewall we want to run it under the carpet along the driver side of the car. Paying special attention to ensure it won't rub on anything metal. I like to run the wire the entire length and then come back and zip tie it as needed. You will need to pull up the majority of the plastic trim on the driver side floor. Same as the other panel is just snaps in place.
The majority of the way is pretty straight forward. To get through the side pillar I specifically ran it through other wires to avoid the metal. I later came back and zip tied it to ensure it will never rub.
Routing through the side pillar from the drivers side
Routing on the rear floor
From the rear seat you can follow the other wires that are running into the trunk. I pushed the rest of my wire hanger from the trunk through the hole and taped the power wire on it and easily pulled it back.
Going through the hole by the rear seat
Coming into the trunk
Step 3: Connect to the battery
This step is pretty straight forward, just avoid anywhere the cable could rub. Used the smallest eyelet they provide in the kit. It fits under the nut on the battery cable well. There are a couple holes behind the fuse panel that work great for securing the fuse holder.
Fuse holder location
On the other end you strip the wire and screw it into the power plug that comes with the p300-10.
Step 4: Ground
There are a bunch of holes already in the body that you can stick a bolt or screw into for the ground. Be sure to clean the paint off before screwing it down. The other end of the ground goes into the power connector the same way the power wire did.
You can see where I ran mine on this completed picture
Step 5: Signal
Here you have some options. You could could tap into the existing wire for the rear speakers, you could also wrap wire around the posts on the speaker and tape them to the connector. There way another forum member that documented how to do that. I chose to build plug and play adapters that don't require any modifications to the factory harness. One side has a female speaker adapter that plugs into the factory harness. The other side is split. One branch has a male plug for the existing rear speaker (obtained at the junk yard) and the other runs to the amp for the high level input. I did end up making a couple extra adapters. If you are interested PM me.
Speaker adapter
Speaker adapter installed
Step 6: Tuning
Now that you have everything connected you just need to find the combination of settings you like. I ended up turning the bass on the head unit down 2 notches below the mid point and use the settings in the picture below on the sub/amp. In my opinion in provides just the right amount of bass without over powering the factory speakers.
Step 7: Enjoy
Materials:
Rockford fosgate P300-10
Boss Audio Kit2 Amp install kit
Optional - plug-n-play speaker adapter to avoid cutting\splicing factory wiring harness
Step 1: Power wire through the firewall
The hardest part is routing the power wire from the battery to the trunk so I got that out of the way first. The easiest method is to tape a piece of wire (I used part of a metal hanger) onto the power wire and push it through the grommet used for the hood latch. In order to get access you will need to remove the plastic cover that is around the hood release. It just snaps off if you pull on it. It can be helpful when pulling the wire through the grommet if you lube it with some soapy water.
With the panel removed
Grommet we are going through
before being pushed through
Step 2: Routing power wire
Now that the power wire is through the firewall we want to run it under the carpet along the driver side of the car. Paying special attention to ensure it won't rub on anything metal. I like to run the wire the entire length and then come back and zip tie it as needed. You will need to pull up the majority of the plastic trim on the driver side floor. Same as the other panel is just snaps in place.
The majority of the way is pretty straight forward. To get through the side pillar I specifically ran it through other wires to avoid the metal. I later came back and zip tied it to ensure it will never rub.
Routing through the side pillar from the drivers side
Routing on the rear floor
From the rear seat you can follow the other wires that are running into the trunk. I pushed the rest of my wire hanger from the trunk through the hole and taped the power wire on it and easily pulled it back.
Going through the hole by the rear seat
Coming into the trunk
Step 3: Connect to the battery
This step is pretty straight forward, just avoid anywhere the cable could rub. Used the smallest eyelet they provide in the kit. It fits under the nut on the battery cable well. There are a couple holes behind the fuse panel that work great for securing the fuse holder.
Fuse holder location
On the other end you strip the wire and screw it into the power plug that comes with the p300-10.
Step 4: Ground
There are a bunch of holes already in the body that you can stick a bolt or screw into for the ground. Be sure to clean the paint off before screwing it down. The other end of the ground goes into the power connector the same way the power wire did.
You can see where I ran mine on this completed picture
Step 5: Signal
Here you have some options. You could could tap into the existing wire for the rear speakers, you could also wrap wire around the posts on the speaker and tape them to the connector. There way another forum member that documented how to do that. I chose to build plug and play adapters that don't require any modifications to the factory harness. One side has a female speaker adapter that plugs into the factory harness. The other side is split. One branch has a male plug for the existing rear speaker (obtained at the junk yard) and the other runs to the amp for the high level input. I did end up making a couple extra adapters. If you are interested PM me.
Speaker adapter
Speaker adapter installed
Step 6: Tuning
Now that you have everything connected you just need to find the combination of settings you like. I ended up turning the bass on the head unit down 2 notches below the mid point and use the settings in the picture below on the sub/amp. In my opinion in provides just the right amount of bass without over powering the factory speakers.
Step 7: Enjoy
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