DIY: Adding turn signal Lights to Si/EX side mirrors

  1. Blacklude4

    Blacklude4 Senior Member

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    #1 Blacklude4, Dec 10, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2017
    I figured I would throw this DIY guide out there just in case anybody else is a light freak like me.:crazy: I love the look of the side mirror turn signal lights in the touring trims, so decided to modify my Si to have the same. Total cost of project was around $165 in parts and a couple hours of time. You can buy the pre-built mirrors and throw them on, but with the lanewatch camera it drives the cost up to around $300....ouch.

    The only down side to this is that the touring trim has a chrome strip on the front side of mirror housing. I personally like it-it ties in with the window chrome which I do not plan on deleting. I also have Lunar Silver so it blends a bit. The piece could easily be painted or wrapped before assembly. Another thing to note is that the chrome is "supposed" to continue on to the mirror base on car side. You would also need to order the triangular trim piece that is against the door to have that. Not sure on part numbers, as it is not listed with the rest of the mirror pieces.
    Inked2016-honda-civic-4-door-cvt-touring-mirror_100544669_l_LI.jpg

    As always, follow this tutorial at your own risk. Many of these parts are not meant to be disassembled. They can, and do break. You will also be working within the electrical system...if you are not comfortable with this don't do it! I am not responsible for any issues you may create to your car, property or body, or anyone around you on and off the road from doing this mod! Make sure you disconnect the battery! This will keep you from shorting things out as well as possibly decapitating yourself from an accidental airbag launch. Also, do not rely on this guide for re-assembly. I may have missed a step or two. Take notes and take pictures as you go...:sleep:

    **And one last note: This mod will require a trip to the dealer to have your Lane Watch camera "re-aimed". **:thumbsup:


    Part #'s that are required:

    (QTY-1) 76205-TBC-A12ZA (Right Housing)
    (QTY-1) 76255-TBC-A12ZA (Left Housing)
    (QTY-1) 34300-TBA-A01 (Right Turn Light Assembly)
    (QTY-1) 34350-TBA-A01 (Left Turn Light Assembly)
    (QTY-1) 76206-TBC-A11 (Right Wire Harness)
    (QTY-1) 76256-TBC-A11 (Left Wire Harness)
    (QTY-4) 90109-SAG-H01 (Tapping screw 4x14 truss)

    I ordered the wire harness so I would have the OEM plug for the lights. The heated and power functions of the mirrors are the same between trims. This harness only gets you down to the door plug that is just below the door sail. From there two wires per door will have to be routed into the cab and tied in with the turn circuit.
    Below is the new light and the 'new' compared to old housing pieces. New is the bottom of each pair. I forgot to take a picture of the wire harness...
    IMG_20171209_131042604.jpg IMG_20171209_131602891.jpg

    On to the guide...this is all on the passenger side with lane watch camera. Drivers side is exactly the same, minus the camera/wires.

    -Disconnect the negative battery terminal under the hood.
    -Remove interior door panel and door sail panel (where tweeter is mounted). There are videos around that show how to remove these pieces. Just be aware there is a slight difference in how the panels are taken off between sedans and coupes.

    -Unplug the wire connector. If you use a small pick you can release the zip tie and reuse it. They did send a new one with the parts though.
    -Take the three 10mm nuts off. There is a white clip also holding the mirror on, but I would suggest putting a hand on the mirror as you take the last nut off just to be safe. Pull mirror straight away from door and guide wires through hole.
    InkedIMG_20171209_143028515_LI.jpg InkedIMG_20171209_143044932_LI.jpg

    Now the mirror itself needs to come off. Move the mirror around so you can see down behind it. I started at the outside of mirror on opposite end from car. I used a panel tool to try and keep from scratching/breaking the mirror. You need to separate the mirror from the white mount. Insert tool and lightly twist between the mirror and white mount. It will pop out of the hooks. Work your way around mirror until all 4 locations have come loose. There are two wires hooked to the back of the mirror, so once loose do not pull away too far!
    IMG_20171209_115816163.jpg IMG_20171209_120334064.jpg

    This is the backside of the mirror. The tabs in circles are what you are trying to "pop" apart from the white mirror mount:
    InkedIMG_20171209_120359310_LI.jpg

    Unplug Mirror heater element wires-I slid a pry tool over the top of the terminal and pinched that with my thumb as I unplugged the terminal. These are basically just glued on so pulling connector off without support could cause the element to delaminate and be garbage...
    IMG_20171209_120523466.jpg

    To get the white mounting plate off, use a screw driver and push the key ring down past the tabs-see below. Once there, pop the rubber boots up. Make sure they remain seated at the small end on the threaded rod. This needs to be done before assembly later on. Take two hands and pry straight out. It will make noise as you pull the threads out.... Be aware of the white grease on pivots and posts. Keep clear of it and keep it clean as you will be leaving the grease in place and re-using.
    IMG_20171209_120655643.jpg IMG_20171209_120717373.jpg IMG_20171209_120803029.jpg IMG_20171209_120928042.jpg

    If your white posts stayed in the white plate you are good....if not, see this from CollegeHills. You will need to reseat the posts into the white plate. I actually found it easier for reassembly to have the posts in the white plate. (This is opposite what the following directions show) These install directions are for a Type R, but same idea. What I am pointing you to is making sure the orientation of the posts are correct-they have a tab and only insert into white plate in one direction. Thanks to @jdmorangefever for the link:

    http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/civic/2017/typer/doormirrorcovers.pdf


    From here I separated the mirror housing from the car side base. First, swing the mirror housing to the side to expose a screw. Support the triangle base on both ends as you do this-prying on one side to swing mirror could end badly...:cry:Once you take that out put Mirror housing back in 'normal' position-it makes it easier when re-assembling later on. Take out the 3 screws under the small panel on bottom of base.
    InkedIMG_20171209_122036330_LI.jpg InkedIMG_20171209_122055507_LI.jpg InkedIMG_20171209_122223359_LI.jpg

    Cut the door end of the wire harness off. I left about 3 inches of wire hanging out of plug so I knew where to put the new ones(they send you a NEW plug with the parts kit, as well as all wires already have the plug pins crimped onto the ends) You also need to peel away the foam tape that is wrapped around the rubber boot before it enters the mirror assembly. They send new tape with the parts.
    IMG_20171209_122405174.jpg

    Peel back the foam pad as well as the rubber gasket below it-My gaskets were glued in one corner so I left them on. You just need enough room to pull the wire harness out of the keeper tabs below and then out through the mirror base. There should be a piece of colored tape on the harness. Pay attention to where it is before your pull the harness out. You can match it to your new harness and put a piece of tape on the new one-this will help you line up the new harness when you reinstall. Set the base aside for now.
    IMG_20171209_122521942.jpg InkedIMG_20171209_122557077_LI.jpg
    IMG_20171215_164944798.jpg

    Now you can pull the two housing pieces apart. There are two screws on the face of what was behind the mirror. There is also two plastic tabs-look at your new housings and you can see where they are. One is on the car side of housing, one is on the bottom side where they meet.
    InkedIMG_20171209_132859179_LI.jpg InkedIMG_20171209_125155164_LI.jpg

    Pull the wire harness out through the pivot assembly. Unplug the camera connector, and then pull the connector off of the housing. There is a tab to push to do each step.
    IMG_20171209_125539189.jpg IMG_20171209_125612611.jpg IMG_20171209_125642083.jpg

    From here it is time to install the new harness into the mirror actuators. Take out the 4 screws and lift the actuator housing out. There are two large white plugs. They are labeled A and B. This does not show in the picture. Pay attention to which goes where or your mirrors will end up working bass-ackwards. Pull the two plugs in from the hole, plug in and then put actuator assembly back together with the 4 screws. Be sure to double check the wires lay nice and do not get pinched when putting these back together.
    InkedIMG_20171209_125733023_LI.jpg InkedIMG_20171209_130143723_LI.jpg

    Now install the chrome piece into new shell. It uses two screws with washers and a press on circular clip.
    InkedIMG_20171209_130913292_LI.jpg

    The light has two catches that slide into place at the opposite end of mounting holes. Use two of the screws that were ordered to mount the light to the posts. ( 90109-SAG-H01) Check outside the housing, the light should be flush if installed properly. Swap the camera housing over as well. They sent a new camera mount piece, but I just re-used my old one. The camera is held to housing with one screw. Do not remove the screw circled "no". Also be sure to route the camera wire under the catch-just left of the word cam in the picture.
    InkedIMG_20171209_131257234_LI.jpg

    Make sure your wires are routed correctly. Don't forget to plug in the light connector. Connect the camera wires and remount to the clip post. Route the heater wires out the hole. Reassemble the two housing halves. Re-route the harness through the pivot assembly, make sure all wires are good and put the two screws back in that hold the two halves together. Make sure the actuator assembly is seated properly on the two post seen below before you join the outer shells.

    InkedIMG_20171129_174344539_LI.jpg

    Reinstall everything else in reverse order. When you join the mirror assembly back to the car side base assembly, double check the rubber pad between the two is seated. I had to re-insert the tab. You will also want to make sure the wire harness passes through the pivot assembly with a bit of slack. And I mean a bit...this is Honda. The harness is EXACT. Give too much slack and your wires won't make it to the plug. You won't figure this out until you are completely reassembled...:banghead: The mirror pivots around the harness when retracted. If tight, you will have some shorted wires in no time. The triangular rubber gasket has press fit tabs on the bottom, and T slots on top-check them, mine came out.

    IMG_20171209_132729926.jpg IMG_20171209_133528490.jpg IMG_20171209_133837293.jpg

    When you re-install the white plate to the actuator housing, don't forget the key ring. Slide it on until it stops. Also make sure the white posts are perpendicular to the white plate. Check the rubber boots and verify they are seated properly on the white plate end. Line everything up and push on. Takes a bit of force. Use a trim tool and push bottom of boots in place. Plug in the heater wires-it does not matter which wire goes where. This also applies when you plug the other ends into door harness plug. You can now pop the mirror itself back in place. Line up the white plate with the black tabs-will take force. Make sure you are pressing on mirror DIRECTLY over the black tabs. I rotated the mirror down in the 4 different directions to give me some leverage at each location. When you think they are good, shine a light in and check all 8 tabs. I had to go back a couple times to get them to all seat properly.
    IMG_20171209_141757367.jpg IMG_20171209_141911687.jpg

    Mount the mirror back onto car. You need to plug all the wires into the new white plug. Match exact locations as old plug. The metal crimps on the wires lock in place, and only work in one direction. Look at your old plug for orientation. TRIPLE CHECK WHERE YOU ARE PLUGGING YOUR WIRES INTO THE WHITE PLUG...these are very difficult to "unpin" without damage. I can't stress this enough...check it again before you shove that wire in and hear the "click".....Did you check it 14 times!?:rant:
    The pink and purple wires are for the light. I DID NOT insert these into the plug as I do not have this style of pins lying around. I believe @17CivicTypeR_Brian is having a hell of a time finding them for his mirror project...besides that, they do require a special crimping tool. I will most likely just crimp and liquid tape them and call it a day.

    Plug in your harness to the door plug. Once you like how it sits, apply some of the foam tape around the rubber grommet to harness. Install skull cap. Study the backside of that cap. The tabs are easy to break even when putting back on...
    IMG_20171209_143052938.jpg InkedIMG_20171209_121826177_LI.jpg

    Hooked to 12 volts just to see:thumbsup:
    IMG_20171209_143450772_HDR.jpg IMG_20171209_145830386.jpg IMG_20171209_145908085.jpg IMG_20171209_145900271.jpg
    IMG_20171210_090610229.jpg



    And this is where I will stop for now...I am losing my car for the week while it gets window tint, full detail/polish and full frontal PPF. I hope to tackle the wiring the week after next. I haven't decided if I am going to just tie into the turn lights, or do a alternating type of set up. I would like to have the mirrors blink as the regular signal lights go out...will take a bit more research as I am not super savvy with electronics....we will see!
    I will add the wiring to this tutorial when completed.

    Thanks for reading!:wave:
     
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  2. 17CivicTypeR_Brian

    17CivicTypeR_Brian Aiming for 400whp out of the TypeR.

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    That looks great dude! Similar result to what I'm going for but different path.

    You're right about locating the pins - I still haven't had success. I wound up clipping the wires very close to the connector and re-terminating the wires on the mirror end and I'll have to do the same on the matching side on the door-harness side.
    With the Euro mirrors, I have power fold function, turn signal, ?defrosters?, and BSI... but no camera. I may never get the BSi to work but I think I can get all the remainder to work. I'm focusing on the power fold first thing as that seems to be the 'lowest hanging fruit' as they say.

    I'll be interested in seeing how you wire these up especially if you want to have them alternate on/off with the front signals. I'm sure it can be done-
     
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  3. asiandeity

    asiandeity Senior Member

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    Did this to my Type R. The US CTR doesn't have lane watch so I couldn't use the parts for the right side. The UK EX comes with led turn signal mirrors without lane watch so I had to get the one part for the right side.
    20171217_093340.jpg
    20171217_093408.jpg
     
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  4. Mishka

    Mishka Member

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    Where did you connect the turn signal wires to? Is there a plug I can tap on the interior or do I have to run wires from the headlights?
     
  5. asiandeity

    asiandeity Senior Member

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    There was a connector not used taped to the harness behind the door panel that I thought would have the power for the turn signals. I was unable to determine any of them was the right one. Perhaps you would have better luck. I ended up tapping into the headlights for the left side and the taillights for the right side. I was easier to go to the back on the right.
     
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  6. OP
    OP
    Blacklude4

    Blacklude4 Senior Member

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    I have not got to the point of hooking these up yet. If you are doing what I did above, there are no wires in the factory door harness for the signal light. The pink and purple from the 'new' mirror harness needs to be tied into the factory signal, either front or rear. Pink goes to positive turn wire, purple to negative. If you do some tracing you could probably find them under the dash or along the door sill and splice there. (Look at the light socket you are splicing into and see what color wires you are tracing) I am personally running to the rear trunk harness plugs to splice in, as I am adding relays to have an alternating blink effect, and I don't want to hear the relays....plus, I hate working under a dash or running through the firewall...I avoid that when I can...I am too dam old to pretzel myself these days;)
     
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  7. 17CivicTypeR_Brian

    17CivicTypeR_Brian Aiming for 400whp out of the TypeR.

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    #7 17CivicTypeR_Brian, Apr 30, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2019
    If you do LED turn signal bulbs in the back and buy the pnp adapter harnesses that have the load resistor built-in, then you have a bit of extra wire you can at least tap into to run back up front to the door. Running through the car isn't too terrible, just watch that you always keep the wire away from the path of an inflating airbag - just in case.
    Pulling through the door is a challenge but it isn't too bad. Hardest part is probably getting your fingers up there and of course dealing with the door sealing tar stuff.


    EDIT - don't pull wire from the trunk or headlight area - pull from the plug under dash on the driver side...
     
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  8. rbf351

    rbf351 Member

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  9. jdmclock

    jdmclock Senior Member

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    You think the dealer would do this mod if the customer brought them them the parts?
     
  10. Civic4JR

    Civic4JR Member

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    highly doubtful
     
  11. 17CivicTypeR_Brian

    17CivicTypeR_Brian Aiming for 400whp out of the TypeR.

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    Not likely. Your best bet would probably be going to a custom stereo installer or car alarm installer. They won't be overly cheap but they will have the know-how on how to do proper connections and how to run the wires through the door.
     
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  12. ybok

    ybok Member

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    Thanks for instructions on removing the mirror glass and replacing it. I bumped my passenger side mirror and the mirror and white mounting just popped out of the housing. I popped it back in but it wasn't responding correctly to the adjustment controls. Using your guide I was able to remove the mirror glass, reset the white mounting and put everything back in correctly and now it works fine. Thanks for saving me some repair bucks!
     
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  13. Dan0974

    Dan0974 Senior Member

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    #13 Dan0974, Sep 9, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2019
    So I was testing for turn signals under the dash with my test light and found a green plug under the drivers side kick panel. The tan wire on the top right is the 12v+ positive right turn signal and the gray wire on the bottom left is the 12v+ positive left turn signal. This was in my 2017 Type R, could be different on other models.

    A6903F2B-6EF8-4ADE-BCF1-C4A287EB2654.jpeg

    063D7F7F-F0DE-4443-8AC2-67A7568806FF.jpeg
     
  14. OP
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    Blacklude4

    Blacklude4 Senior Member

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    I haven't been around in awhile but wanted to give a quick update- I never had a chance to finish wiring my mirrors up as I had a large tree come down and total my civic. :thumbsdown: I have had quite a few members ask me how to complete the wiring. @Dan0974 is on the right track for anyone who is trying to figure out where to tie in at.
     
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  15. 17CivicTypeR_Brian

    17CivicTypeR_Brian Aiming for 400whp out of the TypeR.

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    Does anyone know the part number for the pins in this connector?
     
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