CVT failures

raulnor516

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I have that same issue, it might just be the engine and cvt warming up. Once the engine warms up a little, I notice that the cvt doesn't slip, but I know what you're talking about. It's odd, because we also have a 2016 fit ex cvt and it doesn't do that at all...?
The civic hatchback sport is putting a lot more torque on the CVT at much lower revs than a 2016 Fit would (114 lb-ft @ 4,600 RPM for the Fit, 177 lb-ft @ 1,700 RPM for the Civic). I do know that the 10th Gen Civics have a CVT warmer on them stock to heat up the CVT fluid a bit while the engine is still cold. It could be worth starting your car and letting it sit until revs drop down to idle (800ish IIRC) before driving, that would give a bit more time for the CVT to be warmed up and grab better. Additionally, I always see people suggesting to drive in Eco mode until the car/coolant is fully up to temp.
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Swordfish

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All I know is, my Civic is just under 5,000 miles, and I’m starting to have a weird issue where it feels like it is “slipping”

if the car has been sitting overnight, or at least 6 to 8 hours in cold weather (California cold, like 40° to 50°F) when I first start to drive, the RPMs rise but the car doesn’t feel like it wants to go anywhere. Normally, around 1,500rpm I can feel the CVT start to do its thing and accelerate while barely raising the RPM. During these cold start “slip” scenarios, the RPMs clear 2,000rpm and will continue to rise, and I get no sensation of the CVT starting to change ratios to achieve more acceleration. It really reminds me of a clutch slipping. Once the car has warmed up, it drives normal again.

Rant over. Not a fan of these CVTs and as miles accumulate its not winning me over.

Honda will probably issue a TSB for a software update regarding a slipping transmission.
 

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If it's slipping you'll apparently know. The descriptions of giving throttle but not getting power is likely the ecu pulling back on ignition until Temps rise.
Best way you heat up the tiny 1.5L is to drive gently until the coolant temp gauge has appreciable bars showing.
Keeping the car out of econ would serve to warm the car faster. If it's chilly and you have the heat on, in econ, it dampens the climate control output to reduce fuel use. If the car is cold, heated seats are more effective than blowers.
 

GermanCivic

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@IronFusion
You're right but I wonder if that has really something to do with the cause of the problem. I mean we're in a community of car enthusiasts, most people here Iove their Civics! I just can't believe some people here kicking their pedal if the engine is cold.:confused:
 

IronFusion

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@IronFusion
You're right but I wonder if that has really something to do with the cause of the problem. I mean we're in a community of car enthusiasts, most people here Iove their Civics! I just can't believe some people here kicking their pedal if the engine is cold.:confused:
Oh I think you misunderstood me. I'm saying if the car is really cold there is no "problem." It's normal for throttle and ignition to be pulled back. Particularly if you're giving it throttle like it's a spring day early am after a cold start. And getting the car moving rather than idling is the better choice.
I've noticed, when cold in the morning, I need to put the car into S and ease into throttle if I haven't warmed the car.
I just don't think actual slipping is happening.
 


Myx

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I've noticed, when cold in the morning, I need to put the car into S and ease into throttle if I haven't warmed the car.
I just don't think actual slipping is happening.
This right here is what I do. I drive gently until the car is warmed up and even gently still after that for quite a bit, before driving it like 'normal'. Outside temp today was 27F and I still have not noticed any slipping during light throttle, after driving off, after starting up.
 

9xArtanisx9

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The civic hatchback sport is putting a lot more torque on the CVT at much lower revs than a 2016 Fit would (114 lb-ft @ 4,600 RPM for the Fit, 177 lb-ft @ 1,700 RPM for the Civic). I do know that the 10th Gen Civics have a CVT warmer on them stock to heat up the CVT fluid a bit while the engine is still cold. It could be worth starting your car and letting it sit until revs drop down to idle (800ish IIRC) before driving, that would give a bit more time for the CVT to be warmed up and grab better. Additionally, I always see people suggesting to drive in Eco mode until the car/coolant is fully up to temp.
I normally wait around 5 minutes for the car to warm up before I do any driving, but that occasionally solves the "slip."
 

raulnor516

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I normally wait around 5 minutes for the car to warm up before I do any driving, but that occasionally solves the "slip."
Unfortunately, this car doesn't heat up at idle very much. Waiting for the idle revs to drop only takes a minute or so and is more of a cat warmup than anything else. Like some other people on this thread have said, I've taken to putting my HB Sport into S mode and going gentle on the throttle. It warms up much faster since the revs stay at 2.5-3.5k RPM compared to the 1.5 in D mode, and it usually takes around 5 minutes on the road @ 30-40°F to get the temp bars up to mid.
 

GermanCivic

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I also have some sort of slipping clutch after changing gears:
Everytime come to a full stop and then going into reverse when I push the gas pedal slightly, there is a pretty strong clutch slipping. :mad:

I can avoid that by not using the accelerator after changing D to R and let the car accelerate on its own but that takes like hours, especially when you're maneuvering into parking space on a busy street.:rolleyes:
 
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groundon000

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Ya guys I had a CVT problem before with the slipping and jerking. I floored one time then the car started jerking very badly then came to a complete stop with bunch of errors like transmission system failures. Got it fixed by Honda under warranty. Still felt a little slippery but was okay and drivable. Over a year later now, floored it by accident to catch onto the highway and started to do it again and completely stopped once again when I stopped the car at a red light. Car would turn on but not move on drive like the engine is locked. The previous time they fixed it, they replaced a couple parts includes the body assembly, harness solenoid and transmission fluid. Any tips on how I can fix it while I wait for my service appointment?
 


GermanCivic

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@nickname
Could you give us some more details? What happened when it broke? And was there really only one single CVT fluid change on 185k miles?
 

GermanCivic

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nickname

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Being poor.

Also, in school, my instructors always said it's best to never drain/fill trans fluid if you miss the intervals

Edit: it's a 2016 Touring
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