CTR Clutch Delay Valve Removal

[gylmar814]

What fluid are you guys using when bleeding the clutch, oem or?

i used oem but you can use and dot3 or dot 4 fluid

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[Acurately]

Ok so I finally removed the Clutch Delay Valve on my type R and HOLLY SHIT BALLS it feels good, I'm so glad I did it and I wish I would have done it before.

So Type R is the car that I learned to drive manual in, every time I drive it my goal was to get smooth shifts, rev match system helps a lot but whenever I try to get going faster it would almost never be smooth, my solution was to wait for the rev's to drop and slowly transition to next gear or in some cases add some throttle when releasing clutch, always felt like i'm in the friction zone to long and maybe burning up clutch more than I should. 1st to 2nd shift was always the hardest and I always had to concentrate on it to be smooth.

Well my first drive with CDV delete was like driving the car for the first time, the clutch seemed to grab a tiny bit higher, my first 1st to 2nd shift was pure sex, it felt so smooth, then I did it again and smooth, I did a higher rpm and a bit faster it felt better than ever, it's like it removed 75% of all the buckiness I had.

Not going to lie the whole process was a little intimidating to me, but I was fed up with the way I was driving and was ready to try something new to help me shift better, so I just went ahead with doing it my self. Removing the airbox was pretty straight forward once you figure it out, unplug the sensor, disconnect the air tube and two screws that are holding it to the chassis, then just one rubber grommet holding it below, pull straight out. Now you have the access to the slave cylinder, one bold holding the hardline and two bolts for the slave itself. I bought another slave cylinder which I removed the cdv in, just wanted to keep my stock one in case. Disconnect slave cylinder, put the new one on and lube the piston that sits against the fork with (high temp urea grease PN 08798-9002) bolt everything back up and bleed the system. I used a vacuum pump kit. Connect the hose to the bleeder screw and start sucking, keep an eye on the brake fluid level and dont let it hit the Min mark. Close the bleeder valve, wipe everything down and check for leaks.

I had one issue tho, I've discovered a "click" when I press down on the clutch pedal, that I didn't notice before, upon further investigation I found out it was the Clutch Switch Sensor engaging against the small plastic yellow stopper in the clutch pedal assembly, honestly I didn't notice it before maybe the clutch pedal got a bit lighter I can't really tell, but the click is definitely coming from plastic stop touching plastic push pin in the sensor. All good.

I can't recommend this CDV delete enough, for me with my limited manual experience and my style of shifting this mod helped out a lot, big thumbs up.

 

[PowerPerLiter]

The clutch delay valve is located inside of the clutch slave cylinder to slow down the engagement of the clutch to reduce shock to the drivetrain. With correct clutch control, the CDV is not needed. Instead it interferes with the operation of the transmission.

My certified pre-owned 2016 V6 Accord 6spd MT had a clutch that always felt direct, in control and with feedback from the drivetrain. By comparison, the CTR felt numb. The first owner removed the CDV from the Accord.

CDV removal on the CTR is easy with the exception of one hard step: removal of a metal retaining ring to get the CDV out. The ring needs to be in one piece so you can put the slave cylinder back together. It took me 45 minutes to get off .

Damaging the inner walls during extraction of the CDV is possible and you would not be able to drive the car until the broken cylinder is replaced. If you first order a new slave cylinder and remove the CDV, then you will get the hardest part the done first.

@Acurately posted pictures of opening the slave cylinder.
https://www.civicx.com/threads/the-infamous-2nd-gear-crunch.12890/page-43#post-362120

@gylmar814 Has a write-up for CDV removal on the Si and an explanation of what the CDV does and why you may want to remove it.
https://www.civicx.com/threads/clutch-delay-valve-delete-prl-ss-clutch-line-install-review.21587/

@PRL Motorsports has another write-up for CDV removal.
https://www.civicx.com/threads/10th-gen-civic-1-5t-clutch-delay-valve-removal.13105/

There are a lot of youtube videos on CDV removal for Honda MT. Previous gen civics and Accords have the same CDV. This video explains a technique to get the ring off and something similar worked for me.

Recommended tools for opening the cylinder:
Vice and clamps – hold the cylinder with the ring end up
Tekton pick and hook set – retainer ring removal
Needlenose pliers with teeth – pull out the plug
Drill and drill bits (1/16”, 1/8”, 3/16”) – CDV extraction

It is important to be careful once the cylinder is open. Scratching the inner wall of the cylinder can cause a fluid leak so don't use the needle nose pliers to extract the CDV. I pulled the CDV out by drilling into it and getting the drill bit lodged inside. Started drilling with a 1/16” bit and then 1/8” to widen the hole. Then I took a 3/16” bit and twisted it into the hole by hand using pliers. The bit got stuck and then pulled out the CDV.


Slave cylinder removal and installation
Part 1: Remove the air box.
Mishimoto has a video showing the removal of the airbox for their performance intake installation.
Unplug MAF
Remove rubber air duct and loosen bolts
You don't need to remove all the rubber stripping like in the video, only the part holding the air duct down.
Remove intake tube
Remove air box
The air box can be opened and taken apart if it makes it easier to get out. The rubber air duct also comes off. The air box clips into a bracket on the bottom.

Part 2: Remove clutch slave cylinder
First, locate the slave cylinder, clutch hydraulic line and all of the components listed below. See Parts diagram for numbers.

Slave cylinder (7)
Steel tube (18)
Rubber hose (15)
Bracket (17)
Nut (23)

First find the slave cylinder.


The slave cylinder (7) is attached to a steel tube (18). The other end of the steel tube connects to a rubber hose (15) that is mounted at bracket (17) using nut (23).



Do not bend the steel tube. Remove the nut indicated by the arrow and unclip the bracket to take the tension off of the steel tube. Now unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission. Slip the slave cylinder out from behind the water hoses and pull it up. The rubber hose is long enough that you can pull the slave cylinder to the top of the engine bay. I tied the end of the steel tube near where the intake was so that fluid didn't drip out after removing the slave cylinder. Remove the slave cylinder using 2 open ended wrenches.

Connect the slave cylinder (with CDV removed) to the hydraulic line. Put the slave cylinder back onto the transmission case, clip the hydraulic line bracket and secure with the nut. Torque the slave cylinder bolts to 16 ft lbs.

Bleeding
Thanks to @Acurately for clutch bleeding procedure
https://www.civicx.com/threads/clutch-fluid-brake-fluid-reservoir.11380/#post-365829
Put a 8mm box end wrench over the bleeder screw and then attach a ¼” plastic tube. Follow bleeding procedure.

This bleeding procedure is typo'd. This needs to be fixed for later so not-so technical people/ experienced people performing this dont inadvertently pump a bunch of air into the system. The words loosen and tighten need to be reversed in step 3 in the diagram. pedal down-loosen and let fluid/air out while clutch still to floor-tighten-cycle clutch pedal up then down and hold-loosen-tighten....repeat repeat repeat until confident no air in system.

Makes me wonder if the factory assemblers are performing this off of this bulletin and why so many si/r owners are complaining of shifting inconsistency!!!!!!

 

[youCTR]

This bleeding procedure is typo'd. This needs to be fixed for later so not-so technical people/ experienced people performing this dont inadvertently pump a bunch of air into the system. The words loosen and tighten need to be reversed in step 3 in the diagram. pedal down-loosen and let fluid/air out while clutch still to floor-tighten-cycle clutch pedal up then down and hold-loosen-tighten....repeat repeat repeat until confident no air in system.

Makes me wonder if the factory assemblers are performing this off of this bulletin and why so many si/r owners are complaining of shifting inconsistency!!!!!!

Damnnn. I'm one of those people. I made the mistake of pumping the clutch pedal while my friend was watching the engine bay. Even after I told him what to look for, he still didn't know what to look for, so when I went to double check, the brake fluid reservoir was almost empty and I probably pumped a bunch of air into the system. I topped it off with more brake fluid and we reversed roles so I'm hoping I got most of the air out. I'll try out your method when I have another day off and can get another set of eyes.

Side question: if I think I pumped a bunch of air into my system, do I need to get the air professionally pulled then? Or can I still use your method? Should I bleed my brakes too?

 

[PowerPerLiter]

Tough to say if the reservoir went dry... but if you did not work the brake pedal at any point or touch it at any point without fluid in the reservoir you may be fine. Just re bleed correctly the clutch and see how it drives. Keep the reservoir full and do it multiple times. Until your certain no air is coming out. Make sure you explain to your assistant to make DAM SURE THE PEDAL IS BEING "PUSHED THROUGH THE FIREWALL" UNTIL YOU TELL HIM TO PUMP IT UP.... have him yell DOWN when he holds the pedal down and you yell UP when you have the bleeder tight

 

[youCTR]

Tough to say if the reservoir went dry... but if you did not work the brake pedal at any point or touch it at any point without fluid in the reservoir you may be fine. Just re bleed correctly the clutch and see how it drives. Keep the reservoir full and do it multiple times. Until your certain no air is coming out. Make sure you explain to your assistant to make DAM SURE THE PEDAL IS BEING "PUSHED THROUGH THE FIREWALL" UNTIL YOU TELL HIM TO PUMP IT UP.... have him yell DOWN when he holds the pedal down and you yell UP when you have the bleeder tight

I've been driving for a few weeks already and haven't felt any negatives...just the positives from doing this mod. So I'm guessing I'll be fine re-bleeding with your method. Thanks for the tips.

 

[drtye]

I'm confused here, why not just use an ep3 or dc5 slave cylinder, does it not bolt to the transmission or does the fluid line not match up well enough? I did the cdv delete on my fa5 to much the same positives. But looking back (and at the k-swapped car that I had) I really wonder if it would bolt in and just simplify the process for a bunch of people.

 

[Fk8 4343]

This bleeding procedure is typo'd. This needs to be fixed for later so not-so technical people/ experienced people performing this dont inadvertently pump a bunch of air into the system. The words loosen and tighten need to be reversed in step 3 in the diagram. pedal down-loosen and let fluid/air out while clutch still to floor-tighten-cycle clutch pedal up then down and hold-loosen-tighten....repeat repeat repeat until confident no air in system.

Makes me wonder if the factory assemblers are performing this off of this bulletin and why so many si/r owners are complaining of shifting inconsistency!!!!!!

1. Loosen the bleeder screw.
2. Push clutch pedal in. The displacement of the fluid from moving the pedal will push the air out of the cylinder.
3. Tighten the bleeder screw.
4. Release clutch pedal. Pull it up from the floor it does not come back on its own.
5. Repeat. Make sure brake fluid does not go below minimum level.

Air won't go in unless you release the clutch pedal with the screw open.

 

[Fk8 4343]

I'm confused here, why not just use an ep3 or dc5 slave cylinder, does it not bolt to the transmission or does the fluid line not match up well enough? I did the cdv delete on my fa5 to much the same positives. But looking back (and at the k-swapped car that I had) I really wonder if it would bolt in and just simplify the process for a bunch of people.

The stock dc5 cylinder has a CDV. There are aftermarket slave cylinders without the CDV like this HARDmotion K-series performance slave cylinder. That would be easier but the only way to know if another part works is to try it. The Type R slave cylinder has a unique part number. If you use a new cylinder, put grease on the end of the push rod. Use Honda urea grease.

 

[pawnstar]

I'm considering doing this modification as well. Shifting from 1st to 2nd is really annoying. I'd say 1 out 5 times its a smooth transition. Mostly a notchy, and a resistance feel and I changed to amsoil fluid. What it the negative side to performing this mod?

 

[Fk8 4343]

What it the negative side to performing this mod?

There are no negatives with correct use of the clutch.

Dumping the clutch will cause a shock to the drivetrain. The clutch will engage as soon as the pedal comes up since it isn't slowed down by the CDV. That could lead to damage of the transmission, differential, bearings etc.

 

[maxlafon]

I removed it but still get problem with my second gear.... anybody can help me out?

 

[Hayabusa160]

did you change the trans fluid

 

[EnjoyDriving]

Any improvement after bleeding ur clutch? Any update on grinding issues?

I removed it but still get problem with my second gear.... anybody can help me out?

 

[FK8_Ger]

Ok so I finally removed the Clutch Delay Valve on my type R and HOLLY SHIT BALLS it feels good, I'm so glad I did it and I wish I would have done it before.


So Type R is the car that I learned to drive manual in, every time I drive it my goal was to get smooth shifts, rev match system helps a lot but whenever I try to get going faster it would almost never be smooth, my solution was to wait for the rev's to drop and slowly transition to next gear or in some cases add some throttle when releasing clutch, always felt like i'm in the friction zone to long and maybe burning up clutch more than I should. 1st to 2nd shift was always the hardest and I always had to concentrate on it to be smooth.

Well my first drive with CDV delete was like driving the car for the first time, the clutch seemed to grab a tiny bit higher, my first 1st to 2nd shift was pure sex, it felt so smooth, then I did it again and smooth, I did a higher rpm and a bit faster it felt better than ever, it's like it removed 75% of all the buckiness I had.

Not going to lie the whole process was a little intimidating to me, but I was fed up with the way I was driving and was ready to try something new to help me shift better, so I just went ahead with doing it my self. Removing the airbox was pretty straight forward once you figure it out, unplug the sensor, disconnect the air tube and two screws that are holding it to the chassis, then just one rubber grommet holding it below, pull straight out. Now you have the access to the slave cylinder, one bold holding the hardline and two bolts for the slave itself. I bought another slave cylinder which I removed the cdv in, just wanted to keep my stock one in case. Disconnect slave cylinder, put the new one on and lube the piston that sits against the fork with (high temp urea grease PN 08798-9002) bolt everything back up and bleed the system. I used a vacuum pump kit. Connect the hose to the bleeder screw and start sucking, keep an eye on the brake fluid level and dont let it hit the Min mark. Close the bleeder valve, wipe everything down and check for leaks.

I had one issue tho, I've discovered a "click" when I press down on the clutch pedal, that I didn't notice before, upon further investigation I found out it was the Clutch Switch Sensor engaging against the small plastic yellow stopper in the clutch pedal assembly, honestly I didn't notice it before maybe the clutch pedal got a bit lighter I can't really tell, but the click is definitely coming from plastic stop touching plastic push pin in the sensor. All good.

I can't recommend this CDV delete enough, for me with my limited manual experience and my style of shifting this mod helped out a lot, big thumbs up.

Did this mod too and it is exaclty like he said.. Best mod so far!!!

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