Clutch Delay Valve Delete/ PRL SS Clutch Line Install & Review

[BoostedDreams]

Did the mod today but I realized I put the nut on backwards on the slave master (the nut you remove after the C ring with nose pliers). You guys think there is going to be an issue with this if I leave as is?

Hard to say. I would keep an eye on it as it might create a leak or for piece of mind you can flip it around

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[whiteSIR]

Hard to say. I would keep an eye on it as it might create a leak or for piece of mind you can flip it around

Praying that it doesn't lead to anything....pretty much will need a new slave cylinder because theres no way of getting that nut out now. Not to mention that c ring for a second time...

 

[BoostedDreams]

Praying that it doesn't lead to anything....pretty much will need a new slave cylinder because theres no way of getting that nut out now. Not to mention that c ring for a second time...

Im actually selling one if you need https://www.civicx.com/threads/fs-si-slave-master-cylinder.38653/#post-643236

 

[Jpierro79]

I’m thinking of doing this I’m so tired of having to wait fir the damn valve so I don’t grind it’ll or miss.
Has Anyone that done this and seen a big difference in shifting time ? Hey

 

[BoostedDreams]

I’m thinking of doing this I’m so tired of having to wait fir the damn valve so I don’t grind it’ll or miss.
Has Anyone that done this and seen a big difference in shifting time ? Hey

Yes it helps. I have a spare SMC if you want to tackle it without removing your own. It can take a couple hours and if you need it to put it back on your car without able to be getting the valve out , you’ll be doing twice the work next time around lol.

 

[Jpierro79]

Yes it helps. I have a spare SMC if you want to tackle it without removing your own. It can take a couple hours and if you need it to put it back on your car without able to be getting the valve out , you’ll be doing twice the work next time around lol.

Good to know. Time shouldn’t be a problem for me I’ve been a tech fir 21 years. Even so if it’s sonwthjng I’ve never done before I always seek out info so thank you

 

[BoostedDreams]

Good to know. Time shouldn’t be a problem for me I’ve been a tech fir 21 years. Even so if it’s sonwthjng I’ve never done before I always seek out info so thank you

You'll be good then! I got fed up and took it to a performance shop.Took him about an hour at $90/hr kinda hurt, but not as much as getting stabbed repeatedly with the pick tools lol

 

[yyalb]

I didn't want to work on my car outside in Michigan winter, so I went to a shop to get the cdv removed for 75$. The clutch feels waaaaay better. Much easier to modulate, no more 2nd and 3nd gear grind when cold, and much smoother and quicker shift. The rev hang becomes less a problem after removing the CDV since I can use clutch slip to ease it out.

 

[absolude]

I have reversed back to stock at my tuner's recommendation. He said the clutch takes quite a shock without the valve.
I don't find this valve to do much of a delay in my Hatchback, actually it barely dampens the engagement.
In comparison with my 8th.gen Civic the engagement is rougher WITH the valve than the 8th.Gen with the damper and the by pass removed.

 

[stanleywinthrop]

Ok gang. The last few times I've been under my car with the shield removed, the clutch line has been staring me straight in the face practically commanding me to swap in a stainless. I've got big hands which makes it hard for me to reach in from the top and work down that low, but it looks to be easily accessible from underneath and seems like an easy job. Am I crazy?

 

[KensBlueGenX]

I think it's easier to take the air box (and resonator) out and do it from the top. But then that's just me.

Bleeding it later is all most harder; the bleed screw is hard to get to, and with the 2-person method a clutch pedal has a different feel that a brake pedal as there is little or no resistance when downward pressure is applied. And closing it before the pedal has to be pulled back up (at first it will not self-return with air in the system) has to be well coordinated. My partner was getting a bit sick of it all by the time we got all the air out of ours. (All though to be fair, she must of had to push that pedal about 30 times!)

 

[stanleywinthrop]

I think it's easier to take the air box (and resonator) out and do it from the top. But then that's just me.

Bleeding it later is all most harder; the bleed screw is hard to get to, and with the 2-person method a clutch pedal has a different feel that a brake pedal as there is little or no resistance when downward pressure is applied. And closing it before the pedal has to be pulled back up (at first it will not self-return with air in the system) has to be well coordinated. My partner was getting a bit sick of it all by the time we got all the air out of ours. (All though to be fair, she must of had to push that pedal about 30 times!)

I've got a positive pressure system that makes bleeding the clutch and brakes dead simple solo. The last time I did the clutch it took less than 10 minutes.

 

[KensBlueGenX]

Yeah, I don't have one of those. Have never been sure what ones/type work with ABS (for the brakes of course) systems.

 

[stanleywinthrop]

Yeah, I don't have one of those. Have never been sure what ones/type work with ABS (for the brakes of course) systems.

This works with our brakes perfectly.

https://www.speedibleed.com/

 

[KensBlueGenX]

This works with our brakes perfectly.

https://www.speedibleed.com/

Well I've had bad experiences with speed bleeders in the past on my [BMW] motorbike, however thanks for the suggestion.

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