Civic EXT coupe 450 watt system kicker free air sub swap

[HMan]

I have been searching around and haven't found the answer yet.
1) factory ohm rating for the 450 watt system sub (it doesn't say on the speaker)
2) anyone swapped it with success ?
It looks like tension bars (for lack of better term) that aide in closing the trunk without slamming it may impede a large speaker basket.
I'm thinking something with a 200 watt rating may be perfect for using the factory system hopefully. I am not looking to add more power to it, just more accurate bass and range. Kicker makes an 8 inch free air mount either 4 ohm or dual 4 ohm. I might just buy it and try if nobody has the answers. Thanks in advance!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWCD84/Kicker-44CWCD84.html

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[Mikeguyver]

I have been searching around and haven't found the answer yet.
1) factory ohm rating for the 450 watt system sub (it doesn't say on the speaker)
2) anyone swapped it with success ?
It looks like tension bars (for lack of better term) that aide in closing the trunk without slamming it may impede a large speaker basket.
I'm thinking something with a 200 watt rating may be perfect for using the factory system hopefully. I am not looking to add more power to it, just more accurate bass and range. Kicker makes an 8 inch free air mount either 4 ohm or dual 4 ohm. I might just buy it and try if nobody has the answers. Thanks in advance!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWCD84/Kicker-44CWCD84.html

You could unhook the existing woofer and use this instead.
I installed this under the driver seat in my 16 Civic Ex. Bass is very imressive for an underseat woofer. Really fills in the missing bass our stereos cut out.

The VPAS10 (Vega Powered Active Subwoofer) is an active 10” subwoofer that is amplified for extreme output. Encased in a solid cast aluminum body frame for superior heat dissipation, the VPAS10 is compact enough for installation in the tightest of spaces without sacrificing performance. The slim yet sturdy VPAS10 comes measuring in at approximately 13.6” x 9.6” x 2.6” (L x W x H). Power comes from a PWM MOSFET power supply with an integrated thermal protection circuit. The VPAS10 is rated at 200W RMS @ 2Ω, 400W MAX. Features include auto power turn on, bass boost, adjustable input sensitivity, phase switch, and RCA and High-Level Inputs. Mounting hardware and a VEGA remote bass control knob is also included. Hope this helps.

 

[HMan]

You could unhook the existing woofer and use this instead.
I installed this under the driver seat in my 16 Civic Ex. Bass is very imressive for an underseat woofer. Really fills in the missing bass our stereos cut out.

The VPAS10 (Vega Powered Active Subwoofer) is an active 10” subwoofer that is amplified for extreme output. Encased in a solid cast aluminum body frame for superior heat dissipation, the VPAS10 is compact enough for installation in the tightest of spaces without sacrificing performance. The slim yet sturdy VPAS10 comes measuring in at approximately 13.6” x 9.6” x 2.6” (L x W x H). Power comes from a PWM MOSFET power supply with an integrated thermal protection circuit. The VPAS10 is rated at 200W RMS @ 2Ω, 400W MAX. Features include auto power turn on, bass boost, adjustable input sensitivity, phase switch, and RCA and High-Level Inputs. Mounting hardware and a VEGA remote bass control knob is also included. Hope this helps.

Interesting wonder if I could run both.... Lol

 

[Mikeguyver]

Interesting wonder if I could run both.... Lol

Don't see why not. You will definitly get better response out of the Cerwin Vega.

 

[jakabony]

You could unhook the existing woofer and use this instead.
I installed this under the driver seat in my 16 Civic Ex. Bass is very imressive for an underseat woofer. Really fills in the missing bass our stereos cut out.

The VPAS10 (Vega Powered Active Subwoofer) is an active 10” subwoofer that is amplified for extreme output. Encased in a solid cast aluminum body frame for superior heat dissipation, the VPAS10 is compact enough for installation in the tightest of spaces without sacrificing performance. The slim yet sturdy VPAS10 comes measuring in at approximately 13.6” x 9.6” x 2.6” (L x W x H). Power comes from a PWM MOSFET power supply with an integrated thermal protection circuit. The VPAS10 is rated at 200W RMS @ 2Ω, 400W MAX. Features include auto power turn on, bass boost, adjustable input sensitivity, phase switch, and RCA and High-Level Inputs. Mounting hardware and a VEGA remote bass control knob is also included. Hope this helps.

Does the EX have the same system as the Si? The factory sub in the Si is weak at best, but the.mids and highs are quite good. I’m looking for adding a powered sub, but don’t want anything crazy. I listen to mostly rock, so tighter bass is preferred.

 

[charleswrivers]

I know there was some threads on the 9th gen forums which, to my knowledge, run the same open air 8" sub (that sucks) on the decklid. There were some direct replacements that improve it... but nothing short of going to an actual powered sub make it what most people that want more bass would consider good.

I'll have to look... I actually had a sub either in my eBay or Amazon watch/wish list that had been recently out of production that was sized right and was supposed to give good response for what little power the 9th gen OEM amp could provide... but didn't buy it and install as I was actually looking at getting rid of the car and didn't want to put money into it. At the time, there was updated replacement of that speaker. There may be one again. If I run across it, I'll pass it along. I think it was one that one or two folks on the 9th forums installed and said it was a marked improvement, though it still wouldn't compare to pretty much *any* powered sub. You could at least tell it was there and doing something good.

 

[jakabony]

I know there was some threads on the 9th gen forums which, to my knowledge, run the same open air 8" sub (that sucks) on the decklid. There were some direct replacements that improve it... but nothing short of going to an actual powered sub make it what most people that want more bass would consider good.

Yeah I have an Si. The mids and highs are great, but the sub is less than stellar. I was hoping to add a powered sub under the front seat, and wanted to see if anyone had done that yet, and what they were happy with. I assume you can add the additional powered sub, while leaving the factory sub in place and working.

 

[charleswrivers]

Yes... and honestly, the factory one does so little, you could just run the wiring to a powered unit to a powered sub and retain the bass controls on the factory infomat screen. I wouldn't bother trying to keep the factory sub functional... just my opinion.

 

[jakabony]

Yes... and honestly, the factory one does so little, you could just run the wiring to a powered unit to a powered sub and retain the bass controls on the factory infomat screen. I wouldn't bother trying to keep the factory sub functional... just my opinion.

I was thinking about just tapping into the factory wiring for the sub. I just didn't know if there would be any feedback by doing it that way. I don't care about having a separate bass control for the aftermarket sub. I listen to primary heavier rock, so I would pretty much set it and forget it. I just want something to add a little more punch to the factory system......and not have to run 90 feet of wire like I did in my 2013 Accord Sport (in order to keep the factory head unit, and upgrade everything else)

 

[charleswrivers]

I was thinking about just tapping into the factory wiring for the sub. I just didn't know if there would be any feedback by doing it that way. I don't care about having a separate bass control for the aftermarket sub. I listen to primary heavier rock, so I would pretty much set it and forget it. I just want something to add a little more punch to the factory system......and not have to run 90 feet of wire like I did in my 2013 Accord Sport (in order to keep the factory head unit, and upgrade everything else)

I don't have first hand experience, but I have both read on the 9th forums and heard when I inquired about it at a shop that what you're talking about is very possible. The route I considered, beyond just replacing the lackluster sub was using that speakers wiring to feed into a powered sub (you obviously have to run a power wire off the battery). I can't remember if there was something it needed to go through to adapt the signal in a sort of was (sorry... not an audio guy) but, in doing so, when you made adjustments to your factory head units 'subwoofer' controls, it was effective raise and lower the amount of volume of that speaker. I expect you'd have the gain set on the powered sub to whatever would be appropriate then forget it as you say. This method allowed you to retain the ability to use your OEM sub controls so you didn't have to fool around with the controls on the powered enclosure or a amp assuming you went w a separate amp and enclosure setup. I liked the idea of being able to continue to use the OEM subwoofer controls on the head unit... only actually have a subwoofer that actually did something.

I do think the sound in my 10th gen SI is better than my 9th gen SI overall. Bass still is virtually nonexistent from the factory sub though.

 

[jakabony]

I don't have first hand experience, but I have both read on the 9th forums and heard when I inquired about it at a shop that what you're talking about is very possible. The route I considered, beyond just replacing the lackluster sub was using that speakers wiring to feed into a powered sub (you obviously have to run a power wire off the battery). I can't remember if there was something it needed to go through to adapt the signal in a sort of was (sorry... not an audio guy) but, in doing so, when you made adjustments to your factory head units 'subwoofer' controls, it was effective raise and lower the amount of volume of that speaker. I expect you'd have the gain set on the powered sub to whatever would be appropriate then forget it as you say. This method allowed you to retain the ability to use your OEM sub controls so you didn't have to fool around with the controls on the powered enclosure or a amp assuming you went w a separate amp and enclosure setup. I liked the idea of being able to continue to use the OEM subwoofer controls on the head unit... only actually have a subwoofer that actually did something.

I do think the sound in my 10th gen SI is better than my 9th gen SI overall. Bass still is virtually nonexistent from the factory sub though.

"I can't remember if there was something it needed to go through to adapt the signal in a sort of was"--- you are referring to a line output converter. This eliminates any unnecessary noise, like feedback from any noise cancelling through the factory system.

 

[charleswrivers]

"I can't remember if there was something it needed to go through to adapt the signal in a sort of was"--- you are referring to a line output converter. This eliminates any unnecessary noise, like feedback from any noise cancelling through the factory system.

That's sounds right... as I remember folks referring to 'LOC's. I've replaced a few speakers and head units in cars and put a 2.1 system in my living room off a Yamaha receiver that's overkill for what I have... but am very limited to my practical knowledge and experience. I'm somewhat of an electrician by trade and nothing about audio is very difficult... but there's definitely more I don't know component-wise than what I do.

I do know that the setup using the OEM wiring to the stock speaker, feeding into a LOC, then going to into a powered enclosure gave the best bang-for-the buck while retaining the head unit sub controls.

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