Civic AC heading for lawsuit?

87elco

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I just got a 2016 civic touring certified preowned. They were charging 2600 for the extended warranty (10 year, 100k bumper to bumper). I dont know if thats the price in all cases, but the sales guy gave it to me for free when I asked what sorts of discounts they had and he asked if I was a veteran (which I am) when doing the finances. He just crossed out the price and said were throwing this in for you.
Yeah I've seen the chart the minimum they can sell it for is 795 up too 2800...depends if how much the dealer is a piece of shit..but glad they looked out for you
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Yeah I've seen the chart the minimum they can sell it for is 795 up too 2800...depends if how much the dealer is a piece of shit..but glad they looked out for you
Read the warranty FINE Print .. Bumper to Bumper probably just covers the two Bumpers, and nothing in between !!

Its amazing what a different story it is, between when they are promoting all the thing covered by there "WARRANTIES", and then what happens when you actually have a problem, and come to try to later claim for anything with the warranty !!
 

Gruber

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I would go to either a Camry or Corolla sedan. And yes, I know the Camry would cost me a mint compared to the Civic.
Why not a Prius?
Somehow neither Corolla nor Camry made it to the CR 10 most reliable cars, I guess just to make space for 3 Priuses...:hmm:

[...]
  • CRV, everything fixed. But now you don't have a sporty car.
Exactly. But at least you have the Utility. With a Corolla or a Camry you have no sport, no utility and no fun, only a commuter car, unless you spend much more than on a civic.
 
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More but not leagues more. The big win with the Accord is the width. If you want width and leg room, you need the CRV or larger. As a show of the interior size of the CRVs over time, the Gen3 CRV is nearly as big on legroom as the 2019 Accord. I think the latest gen Accords and CRVs are super close now but the one area that the Accord won't win on is headroom for the rear seats.

So the seating guide would be:

  • Civic Sedan rear seats great for two adults for short to medium drives. Three only if you have to. Car seat means a lot less width for passengers if you mount the seat in the middle.
  • Accord, fixes all issues except no gain on headroom for taller people.
  • CRV, everything fixed. But now you don't have a sporty car.
thanks for the information.....the car seat for the grandson makes the passenger side seating very uncomfortable….our 02 CRV was very roomy
 

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There are two killer advantages that the 2020 Corolla gives you, but the 2019 Civic doesn't.

1. Blackout Emblem Overlays for those of you who hate chrome, to give it a quantum of cool
2. Genuine Toyota Removable Cross Bars, for a quantum of utility.

Only $438 for both.

Of course there is also that famous Dynamic-Shift CVT with Physical First-launch Gear.
But you still need to rev the Toyota 2.0 NA Dynamic Force Engine to 4400 rpm for the max torque of 151 lbft, while Honda 1.5T gives you 162 lbft already at a cool and quiet 1700 rpm.

The current Toyota advertising slogan is:
"You might not be someone to show off, but with Corolla, you’ll always show up."


Honda Civic 10th gen Civic AC heading for lawsuit? jGbeq1a4Yteq34JSV3cfrIl3hOhQPcNhKK7-MGtRrg3_HrDNhbUp2Qczh4XCA?width=396&height=220&cropmode=none


Honda Civic 10th gen Civic AC heading for lawsuit? 2eYSwbGCuIpPxtjV0ssuBmFcCWnjNNyrEVT0mIFsFcu3K6BdD45UWNp5E_nkw?width=396&height=220&cropmode=none
 


MTBhatch

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Just got back from the dealer and the service advisor told me they found leaks on the condenser and high pressure line. They did not have high pressure line in stock so they will have to order and call me back. I have to leave my car for 6 hours when they do the work. I was also told that they already have done a lot of warranty work regarding this issue and the ac condenser for 2.0 civics are back ordered.
 

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There are two killer advantages that the 2020 Corolla gives you, but the 2019 Civic doesn't.
Ya, I know... It would indeed have to be a really infuriating experience for me to jump to reliable but boring as hell Toyota. Also, the Toyota dealer here is kinda meh.

I think in all candor, I would likely end up going to an Accord Sport 2.0 if I start to get the heeby-geebies over my Civic.
 

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Exactly. But at least you have the Utility. With a Corolla or a Camry you have no sport, no utility and no fun, only a commuter car, unless you spend much more than on a civic.
We also have a CRV so I have all the utility I need for now. And my father has a Ridgeline so I get to borrow that if I really need truck level utility.
 
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I just got a 2016 civic touring certified preowned. They were charging 2600 for the extended warranty (10 year, 100k bumper to bumper). I dont know if thats the price in all cases, but the sales guy gave it to me for free when I asked what sorts of discounts they had and he asked if I was a veteran (which I am) when doing the finances. He just crossed out the price and said were throwing this in for you.
WOW....that is a great deal! Like I said earlier....the wife and I love the Civic but jut not enough room in it …… I will be looking for a fall deal on a 2019 CRV and getting an extended warranty....
 

BriteBlue

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Could part of the AC problem could be related to where or when the car was made? If there are new/improved evaporators, hoses, etc., when did they start getting installed on vehicles?

Did the USA made Civics get all their AC parts from Japan or did some components come from a USA vendor? If so, could one source be better than the other?

The same for the UK made vehicles - where did their AC parts come from?

Maybe the source of the problem is literally where the components came from.
 


frontlinegeek

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Did the USA made Civics get all their AC parts from Japan or did some components come from a USA vendor? If so, could one source be better than the other?
Funny thing with that is I bought a 2017 EX and my friend bought a 2017 LX (Note trims are different in Canada so LX here is more equipped than in the US). He has not had any issues with his AC and I have, of course, had the issue. The only AC related difference between his and my trim are that the LX does not have dual zone climate control. Not sure what all really would be different beside the baffles in the air ducts but perhaps there is something else.

But yes, all those questions bear wondering/considering where it is certainly not everyone but it is also not a trivial number of people having issues.
 

TheKevinlyFather

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So, I rarely use my A/C because windows down is so much more fun. Turned it on today for a short while (5-10 mins) and it was warm. Even with it re-circulating cabin air and with it cranked to the low setting, it was still pretty warm.

Glad I checked forums today :D
 

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Even with it re-circulating cabin air and with it cranked to the low setting, it was still pretty warm.
Ohio as in Ohio river valley area? Where it is as humid as all gets out in the summer? If so, well, I bet any AC will have a challenge.

I live in a river valley area and we hit low 90s today with 75% humidity so when I finally took my car for a drive at the end of the afternoon, it took a good 5 minutes before I didn't smell the humidity.
 

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Over the years these are some basics or guidelines I’ve read about & followed on how to check your vehicle AC temperature.

Check the center dash outlet with an AC thermometer with the AC set on recycle, temperature on maximum cold, blower speed on max, & eng rpm 1,000 to 1,500. Not sure about dual zone systems, maybe check each center vent. Sometimes it’s colder when the fan speed is on low & IIRC one manual said to do that. I’m presuming it’s because the air is moving slower through the evaporator & having more time to get the heat removed,

Outlet vent temp is typically 40 degrees below the ambient temp. Some manuals say it should not get colder than 38-40 degrees, some say not colder than 32. If too cold the evaporator will freeze up with moisture & block air flow. I’ve had this happen on a very humid day. I turned off the AC for about 10 minutes to let the evaporator thaw & then it worked OK.

When working on my old cars AC, sometimes I’ve driven around with the thermometer in the vent. If it gets below 38-40 degrees I’m satisfied. If it starts climbing to 50 degrees when stopped at a light I know there's a problem. However if it’s 90 outside you may never see 40 at the vent.
 

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Over the years these are some basics or guidelines I’ve read about & followed on how to check your vehicle AC temperature.

Check the center dash outlet with an AC thermometer with the AC set on recycle, temperature on maximum cold, blower speed on max, & eng rpm 1,000 to 1,500. Not sure about dual zone systems, maybe check each center vent. Sometimes it’s colder when the fan speed is on low & IIRC one manual said to do that. I’m presuming it’s because the air is moving slower through the evaporator & having more time to get the heat removed,
100% Correct, the air is colder, but there is less of it, so the overall cooling of the total air inside the car is about the same .. but the colder blowing air does feel GOOD !!.

Outlet vent temp is typically 40 degrees below the ambient temp. Some manuals say it should not get colder than 38-40 degrees, some say not colder than 32. If too cold the evaporator will freeze up with moisture & block air flow. I’ve had this happen on a very humid day. I turned off the AC for about 10 minutes to let the evaporator thaw & then it worked OK.

When working on my old cars AC, sometimes I’ve driven around with the thermometer in the vent. If it gets below 38-40 degrees I’m satisfied. If it starts climbing to 50 degrees when stopped at a light I know there's a problem. However if it’s 90 outside you may never see 40 at the vent.
Also 100% True. Its the TEMPERATURE difference that really indicates how well the A/C is working, and based on the Outside temperature, there is a limit on how cold it can get the interior of the car, no matter how low you set the DESIRED A/C temperature.

That being said, it would seem that the GenX A/C systems are excessive prone to failure, due to refrigerant loss for numerous reasons, but according to Dealers, it is always the Customer's Fault, being causing Road Debris damage to the Condenser, (Not covered by Warranty) which is one of the most PROFITABLE repair for the Dealer .. GO FIGURE !!!

You DON'T have to wonder why the Dealers are not installing BETTER Condensers, if the original Honda Condensers are so prone to damage, because they are built so lightly ... would be stupid to Kill the Goose that keeps laying the Golden eggs !! (Not that they have that option when doing an OFFICIAL Honda Repair )
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