Change your own wheel

123sillyboy123

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Anyone put anti rust thing around the hub and lug when they change their wheel?
I live in canada, road are all salted in winter time and salt eat metal and rust thing.
I wonder what is the best way to prep the wheel and the hub?
Anyone?

Thanks
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BoxsterSteve

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You mean that grey anti-seize goo?
I usually only put it on lug nut threads if they’re really rusty, like I did yesterday when I swapped over winter rims & tires on my elderly uncle’s Ford Focus.
You can use it on the flat hub surface where the wheel mates if you want, but it does make a mess at brake job time.
 

boosted180sx

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You mean that grey anti-seize goo?
I usually only put it on lug nut threads if they’re really rusty, like I did yesterday when I swapped over winter rims & tires on my elderly uncle’s Ford Focus.
You can use it on the flat hub surface where the wheel mates if you want, but it does make a mess at brake job time.
Just be careful when your torqueing the wheels after adding anti sieze on the studs.

wet torque and dry torque are 2 different things.
 


Ocelot

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I put anti-seize on my center-bore protrusion and on the flat contact surface of the rim (aluminum or steel), I've never anti-seized my lugs/nuts
 

BoxsterSteve

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I put anti-seize on my center-bore protrusion and on the flat contact surface of the rim (aluminum or steel), I've never anti-seized my lugs/nuts
I usually don’t lube the studs but in the case of this crappy old Focus, they were so badly rusted the lug nuts threaded on with difficulty even after wire brushing the studs.
I’ve never seen one that bad.
 

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Just be careful when your torqueing the wheels after adding anti sieze on the studs.

wet torque and dry torque are 2 different things.
dont worry about that, wheel bolts and nuts are far stronger than they need to be, if u use proper torque and wrench it doesnt matter wet or dry.
those few % of wet torque is nothing... just dont be on of those guys to use 3foot pipe and jump on it, and you are ok
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