CEL code for running rich why?! Engine shaking.

GarbageFk7

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So I have a Civic sport hatch and I'm in Canada with -15 degree weather. Running a starter 21/eco, prl intercooler, and prl short ram intake. Check engine light came on after I let it idle for around 10-15 minutes after driving it for 20. I popped the hood and the engine was violently shaking took it to my buddies shop and got a code for running rich. I have a v1.2 so i haven't monitored my fuel trims because I thought I didn't need to from people saying the intake should be okay. What is causing my car to run rich? Is it cause I let the car idle for too long knowing that the prl short ram increases the temps drastically during idle? Is it the weather? Thanks
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RobXsi

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Whoever told you not to monitor your car. Should be slapped for giving such advice. Did you Datalog your car after mods? And then check the datalog for rich? And yes Short ram intake equals HEATSOAK. But that cold of temperature, id be suprised if your getting heatsoak until summer. Also you warm your car up for 10-20mins?? Thats another issue for another day.

Fuel Trim (Short and Long)are mere corrections. But if you knew your STFT/LTFT it would help.

AFR = Air fuel ratio. Determines alot more such as running rich.

Im glad i run Ktuner v2 and monitor my AFR and fuel trims as i drive.


Also my car starts correcting LTFT rich as it sits idle. I can go from 0% LTFT to 5% rich corrections just from idling.
 
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GarbageFk7

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Oh. No it was already driven for a while, then I went inside the house to do something. Anyways I'm wondering then if the car got really hot and the AFR went way off because the intake temps were super hot while idle and then the maf was sensing more fuel than air, that is why the cel came on, hence running rich?
 

kshawn

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Something else is happening. Take some logs and look at your STFT and LTFT. I've let my car idle in 90°+ with no issues.
 

kshawn

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You didn't order the PRL with race MaF right?
 


NoKz

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This is why I tell everyone with the turbo motors to get the V2 Ktuner.... The v1.2 is better for N/A owners where the data is important but not as vital
V1.2 here and my info is on the HU at all times. The model doesn't matter. Everyone just needs to pay attention and actively monitor their info. :thumbsup:

Honda Civic 10th gen CEL code for running rich why?! Engine shaking. PAppU9Zl
 

kshawn

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It's more about LTFT which should be 0 in a perfect world. But +-1-3 is normal to see. The STFT is an indicator of what's happening at the moment, but will change rapidly up and down for a number of reasons.
 

RobXsi

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What AFR range should we be looking out for?

Typically AFR from my research. Should 14.7 in a perfect world.

Realistically, 14s in half throttle with slight variance of +/- a few points.
And a pro correct me if im wrong, but WOT can see 11s and should be normal.
 

D-RobIMW

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Typically AFR from my research. Should 14.7 in a perfect world.

Realistically, 14s in half throttle with slight variance of +/- a few points.
And a pro correct me if im wrong, but WOT can see 11s and should be normal.
AFR for the most part should depend on load on the engine, but there's a bunch of variables.

Fuel trims will tell the story here.
 


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GarbageFk7

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So i cleared the po172 code (running rich)removed the intake and put my stock box back on. Engine doesn't shake

vigorously anymore during cold start and after driving, and it runs fine. I just traded in for a v2 so I didn't get to monitor the

fuel trims with the prl short ram but I assume they were off. I was running a PRL intercooler, that intake, using a starter

21/eco with aggressive spool and throttle response. Also -10 to -15 degrees out here in Canada so I don't know. I'm

thinking now I'll just convert short ram to the cold air or just keep it stock. There is not much info on this forum from users

logging their fuels trims using the prl short ram so I guess it might be no good since cars runs good now without it. I

used friends 0bd2 scanner to check fuel trims, short term was 0 at idle and shot up to -8 to -10 when driving but I guess

that's normal. This was with the intake off and returned factory stock tune.
 
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GarbageFk7

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Oh and I also cleaned out the maf sensor. I read up that over oiled air filters can clog onto the sensor for an inaccurate reading. Maybe the filter was over oiled when I got it? I don't know.
 

kshawn

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Did you get the street or race MAF with the intake?

Only way you'll know what's happening would be to put the intake back in and monitor the results, unfortunately.
 

250GTCalifornia

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Oh and I also cleaned out the maf sensor. I read up that over oiled air filters can clog onto the sensor for an inaccurate reading. Maybe the filter was over oiled when I got it? I don't know.
It didn't come oiled when I bought mine. I'm also using PRL SRI, in Canada, and my LTFT is 0%.
 
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GarbageFk7

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What mods are you running? Also maybe I'm misfiring I gotta check.
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