Can we make a pops and crackles map happen?

[kshawn]

theirs two options grayed out in Ktuner fuel cut vs spark cut. we would need to be able to change this to spark cut vs the stock fuel cut

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[indexcow]

I thought it was accomplished just from dumping a pile of fuel in the engine with super retarded timing so you're lighting the fuel so late, the piston is pushing just lit fuel out... so it burns in the exhaust when you come off throttle? Kind of sounds like anti-lag only off throttle. Sounds easy enough to replicate using anti-lag as a starting point.

I'd be surprised if no one hasn't done so. Might be hell on the cats/turbo though.

@charleswrivers My 2.0L pops on deceleration sometimes but I have my CAT still and 1 aftermarket muffler, my pipes are 2.5 inch tho, would be interested in getting more reliable pops and crackles tho.

 

[KTuner]

theirs two options grayed out in Ktuner fuel cut vs spark cut. we would need to be able to change this to spark cut vs the stock fuel cut

That is not needed. Ignition timing and lengthening fuel cut delay are often used to achieve the pop+crackle, but I do not recommend doing this.

 

[charleswrivers]

Well, based on my few datalogs... we're certainly not dumping fuel off throttle. If Ktuner currently is not letting us throw fuel at the car when we're off throttle like @kshawn mentioned...

That is not needed. Ignition timing and lengthening fuel cut delay are often used to achieve the pop+crackle, but I do not recommend doing this.

Turbo, O2 sensors and cats + still burning fuel?

 

[KTuner]

Well, based on my few datalogs... we're certainly not dumping fuel off throttle. If Ktuner currently is not letting us throw fuel at the car when we're off throttle like @kshawn mentioned...


Turbo, O2 sensors and cats + still burning fuel?

You can, though. The controls to do that are there as well.

 

[indexcow]

Or like this lol,

@KTuner So this guy in the Elentra has a tune to dump fuel which is causing the pops?

 

[kshawn]

@KTuner seems pretty set on "not a good idea band wagon" I'd take this as good advice. They know there stuff.

From what I'm gathering this might be possible by adjusting the fuel cut delay or timming or a bit of both. But if what there saying is timming would need to be decreased and more fuel dumpped between the shifts. Sounds like it will equal to a slower car that just sounds faster.

 

[charleswrivers]

I don't know that you'd be slower... the time y'all are going after is off throttle anyways. Your observed economy mighy take a hit in stop and go traffic because your just dumping fuel to burn Everytime you're off throttle to make noise rather than 'go'.

I know excessive anti-lag can hurt turbos. There's no evident here at Civicx but you'll see some horror stories on the web about damaged turbine blades. This seems not too far away that that... other than the off-throttle aspect. I'm not sure how happy the turbo, cats and O2 sensors will be about it. Maybe it'd be just fine. There's definately some cars from the factory that tend to have the sound y'all are after.

This is another one of those things I hadn't ever really heard of until instarted frequenting the site. I never thought of, or heard people describe raspy, popping exhaust as desirable.

 

[KTuner]

With anti-lag you're only hitting this when you choose to hit launch control. You have more air and fuel in the mix, but is not a regular scenario.

You would hit the pop and crackle scenario regularly during a normal drive. If you drive a lot it will add up.

 

[j__d__a]

I definitely think we can get actual pops out of this car, not the baby ones, although doing it safely will be hard lol

 

[Lxvpq]

I was reading a lot about car mods for the civic this week and anyone please correct me since I'm just throwing in ideas... If you get a blow off valve on the civic. When you release the gas, it vents air and for that half a sec, the cars run rich. This is bad for the catalizer I've read.

Now what if you pair it with a catless downpipe? Does it then turn out safe for the car? Because with the bov, you have a way to get the car to run a little rich which might cause some crackles/pops, yet there's no catalizer to hurt plus you get a bov which may or may not be something you guys are looking for.

Any thoughts on that?

 

[kshawn]

I was reading a lot about car mods for the civic this week and anyone please correct me since I'm just throwing in ideas... If you get a blow off valve on the civic. When you release the gas, it vents air and for that half a sec, the cars run rich. This is bad for the catalizer I've read.

Now what if you pair it with a catless downpipe? Does it then turn out safe for the car? Because with the bov, you have a way to get the car to run a little rich which might cause some crackles/pops, yet there's no catalizer to hurt plus you get a bov which may or may not be something you guys are looking for.

Any thoughts on that?

You'll still suffer from the other side affects. Google "dangers of BOV on MAF cars"

 

[Micah]

I was reading a lot about car mods for the civic this week and anyone please correct me since I'm just throwing in ideas... If you get a blow off valve on the civic. When you release the gas, it vents air and for that half a sec, the cars run rich. This is bad for the catalizer I've read.

Now what if you pair it with a catless downpipe? Does it then turn out safe for the car? Because with the bov, you have a way to get the car to run a little rich which might cause some crackles/pops, yet there's no catalizer to hurt plus you get a bov which may or may not be something you guys are looking for.

Any thoughts on that?

Yeah, MAF tuned car - DO NOT PUT A BOV on it without having it tuned for MAP first. Additional details:

In a Nutshell...... (I am not a mechanic - nor a tuner, but I've owned a few tuned turbocharged cars, Protege, WRX, EVOX, Mini Cooper, and now Civic)

Our cars are MAF tuned. This means the Mass Air Flow sensor is used to determine how much fuel needs to be added based on the measured metered air which flows past the MAF. An alternative to this would be MAP tuning, Manifold Absolute Pressure. Our car does have a MAP sensor, but the tuning for AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) targeting is based on the MAF with our cars. Arguably MAF is better than MAP, but generally speaking if you want to significantly modify and increase power output.... MAP is the preferred method.

So the issue is essentially..... normally MAF reads air - computer sees air and sends appropriate amount of fuel and the cylinder gets the proper mixture for a good combustion cycle, when the car is in boost, extra air is compressed and thus extra fuel is added to maintain the proper mixture. When you let off the gas, as the throttle plate closes, the pressure in the intake piping overwhelms the vacuum which opens the stock BPV (by pass valve), and that air is re-routed back into the intake track where it will continue to enter the engine before the throttle body closes it's flap. With a BOV in place of a BPV, the air is VTA (vented to atmosphere) which results in far less air making it's way into the engine. This is a big problem since the fuel being sent is still based on that metered air. Now you've got an abundance of fuel, which doesn't mix with enough air and doesn't burn, instead it washes the cylinder walls and pulls oil in the process. This new mixture of oil and fuel gets sent out with the exhaust stroke, which is not good. You've wasted fuel and oil, increased friction, and thrown extra hot fuel/oil mixture on your catalytic element. ALL BAD THINGS.

The good news is, you never put it on your car, you will avoid this. Instead, pick up a CAI or SRI (READ REVIEWS AND CHOOSE WISELY, not all of them are well regarded) and when the BPV does it's thing, the "whoosh" sound you are interested in hearing will be audible. If you do not want to read reviews - go for the PRL Cobra CAI or PRL SRI as they have been extensively tested and validated by many people.

Also, welcome to the forum and welcome to owning a turbocharged car.
Some things to keep in mind.

--Boost is based on load. It is easier to build boost uphill than downhill because of load. Just because you can build boost doesn't mean you should. This means when you are in 5th/6th gear, mashing the throttle is a bad idea as the stress on your engine is higher and the resulting acceleration is going to be less. Downshift to a lower gear.

--Turbochargers are oil cooled, if you wait for the car to warm up before using boost and drive easy for a couple minutes before shutting off your engine, the turbo will last longer. Some turbo's are both oil and water cooled. The same behavior should still apply.

--Turbocharged and Supercharged cars are designed to operate in a variety of elevations with different air density, this means there is some wiggle room from the factory which is why forced induction cars typically respond very well to tuning.

 

[charleswrivers]

From experience... when I got my second Z32, it had BOVs in place of it's stock recircs. While it did make a 'cool' sound... the car had horrendous lag that I had never experienced on my first Z32 and had an odd hesitation now and then. I spent hundreds to acquire and install stock recircs back and... lo and behold... the car ran right again with as little lag as can be expected for a car of it's era, turbos and wastegates... which is to say, still wheel spinningly gentle under 3800 RPM and scary fast above... with a moment of lag on each shift (I always have had manuals... though the built autos are the way to go if you're chasing 1/4 mile times).

 

[R4y30n]

I don't buy the argument that catless is the only way to get pops and crackles. Current Mustang GTs will get all kinds of race car crackles with just a cat back. More to the point, here's an Si with mufflers deleted, crackles a bit at 3:40 on a stock tune.

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