Big turbo on non-Si

[MissMacho]

Anyone here put a big turbo in a Ex-T or other non-Si? Have you had any problems with it? Prl has said the ex-t internals are weaker then the SI so it has to be tuned safely.

Sponsored

 

[xjoshuax89]

If you are trying to push 400+ I would worry but if not it should be fine.

I just installed the 27won w1 turbo on today on my hatch

 

[Brvndxn]

If you are trying to push 400+ I would worry but if not it should be fine.

I just installed the 27won w1 turbo on today on my hatch

Is your hatch a CVT? If so how does your car feel now with that installed

 

[RobXsi]

Prl knows their shit. And i know also the internals are WEAKER on Non-Si. So you will have a increased repair bill and sooner, compared to a Si with stronger internals designed to withstand the beating and last longer.

 

[r.camlin]

When I upgrade the turbo, I'm gonna do it along with rods and maybe pistons just for peace of mind. I may not need it with the W1, but stronger internals never hurt an engine.

 

[REBELXSi]

Prl has said the ex-t internals are weaker then the SI so it has to be tuned safely.

I would hope all cars going for big power would be "tuned safely"

 

[REBELXSi]

When I upgrade the turbo, I'm gonna do it along with rods and maybe pistons just for peace of mind. I may not need it with the W1, but stronger internals never hurt an engine.

How much do you think you'll wind up spending?

 

[r.camlin]

How much do you think you'll wind up spending?

Ballpark $4k

(That's turbo, intercooler, downpipe, rods, pistons)

Rough numbers:

W1 - $1600
BC rods - $450
JE pistons - $560
PRL intercooler - $800
PRL catted DP - $450

I plan on doing the FMIC and DP or full exhaust regardless, so they can almost be excluded, but they're more or less necessary for the turbo upgrade so I threw em in. Pistons are optional IMO, but with higher or more efficient boost you're better off reducing compression ratio (and just having stronger pistons) to cut down on ignition timing retard and potential misfires to take full advantage. Throw in an extra $450 you'll need for the custom tune eventually.

 

[consensual_induction]

as someone who has done this to a NA car (350z), i recommend (if you must have "big" turbo)

-forged pistons mandatory
-rods mandatory
-consider something that spools lower than 4.5k (youll spin and...just trust me useable power beats more power on a car that cant keep traction) so idk what a w1 is but just dpn't get an FP black equivalent.
-you NEED guages (AEM is fine, but you need PSI and AFR. They can look cool if youre creative with placement. Try the a-pillar)
-
-no BOV (BPV betterr anyways) unless you wanna turn heads for the lulz (::slide-whistle:: pssshhhhh-tk-tk-tk-tk-tk)
-this is just me, but do stock exhaust with cat-delete (aka test pipe), NO wastegate dump if you insist on DP, you have no idea how loud that shit is with a full exhaust.
-dyno tune. srsly mandatory no software or street tune for you.

anything extra will just add so much power (turbo cars go bananas from intakes, exhaust, headers, literally even the freaking weather gets you noticeable hp changes)...so you'd be content with all that and the price tag would be $3.5k tops

srsly bud, don't do headerback exhaust, either test pipe with stock or just catback and high flow cat (HFC are street legal too)

Last but not least and im not kidding, a lot of the 350z crowd would just do nitrous injection. Its cheaper, you choose when it kicks in, you can hide components easily, youll get a TON of power (need third or fourth gear, but your turbo will makle 1 and 2 equally useless), its fun AF, and makes your car a god dang sleeper bmw killer. Nothing to me would be funnier than some douchebag in an m4 trying to pass you aggressively and then getting his doors blown off by a stock (sounding) civic that just went supersaiyun

 

[consensual_induction]

Skipping tech details here but a more rich AFR + pushing the peak psi > lean and low psi on stock NA internals. even at 10psi. Naturally Aspirated AFR stoicheometrically is 14.3, so your internals need high boost but rich AFR for safest combo of most power and non-grenaded-engine

My evo was built for FI (or consensual induction ) but i still had it tuned @ 28 psi with rich afr much much better than lean at 23. if my evo knocked at 23 lean, you will throw rods civic sport i guarantee.

-My 350z hit 18psi and ran pig rich perfectly
-My Evo hit 28 and ran without a single knock count for years
-My civic si hit a squirrel and ran into a curb

Sponsored