Anybody with Ktuner or Hondata with no clutch issues?

charleswrivers

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...I don't know.

I do know that running large amounts of boost is going to raise the amount of peak torque in the low/midrange drastically.

Trying to get the car to run at peak toque when the hit comes so soon is like try to bust a nut (heh...) thats big and tough with a tiny handled 1/4" drive ratchet. There's no leverage. A 3/4" longer handled ratchet would be appropriate. Plus, with the higher RPMs more work is being done (you're spinning that ratchet faster)... more power. People look at these dyno curves and see a lot of torque between 2500-4000 RPM... and that's great, but these dynos are across ONE GEAR. Gearing changes the torque delivered at the wheel (bigger (lower) gear more leverage), so staying at a lower gear even past peak torque is still doing more work and letting you go faster... all without the added strain on the engine. We're just finding the clutch is giving way. With a few of our recent members talking about failed engines... there seem to be some mitigating factors. Still with one... 27# of boost of the non-Si that spools earlier, with a quicker, sharper torque spike? If the clutch holds and you have traction and are doing pulls in a high hear that's a tremendous amount of strain on the engine.

In the thread about our cars not having a TD03, this is one of the drawbacks. Yes, it's nice to have a *lot* of torque down low, but on this small engine, it's a lot of strain, and if the clutch isn't up to the task of delivering it, it'll slip. Having less low/midrange torque, shifting it up would have made more peak horsepower and made a faster car... it just wouldn't feel as fast for those folks that like to give it a lot of throttle without a downshift... cause all that torque down low wouldn't be there, making the little engine struggle to turn too small a gear for the speed it's at. The car delivers virtually no more power after 5800 RPM with new maps. That flat out shows the turbo is undersized for the car. It can't move enough CFM of air to keep feeding the engine up top. But, on the flip side... huge torque is available down low. This is the car we have. If you understand this and use it accordingly, you oughta be fine. No, I'm not saying the clutch shouldn't be able to hold more power from the factory, but it seems obvious when/why it's slipping.
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l15b7allturbo

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How much did the install cost you?
440 for the clutch install.. mechanic messed up turbo return line and installed my downpipe and front incorrectly. Alignment was off.. Paid 219 to fix issues including rattles then 45 for front alignment with a coupon

Word of advice.. take it to a real transmission shop and pay them once to do it right
 

3925blue

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...pedal feel is very stiff compared to stock but it loosens up after a little driving or i might of gotten used to it actually. It's not as stiff as the first day I got my car back. I heard fx350 is a lot stiffer than fx300 and I don't want to deal with that in San Diego traffic.
Clutchmasters uses the exact same pressure plate on all the kits. Pedal stiffness will be identical across the line.
 

10GenPearlSi

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Why is vits tune better? I have not run any data logs yet but I think ill do one tonight using the dual 19/23 map and then one tomorrow running the vit dual map. Most members dont want to blow up there engine so any new information is always helpful!
I just mentioned Vit's tune as it was the most extreme psi limit of the one's mentioned. I don't know if it is better. My point was that even if the limit was raised to 30 psi that is just the limit that is available. It is our foot jamming the throttle to request the engine to go to that limit that is the real problem for the clutch.
 


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From what we have seen so far the general trend seems to be that the clutch begins to slip around the 265-285 TQ range. We managed to get just under 300 ft-lb out of our 17 HBS before we began to slip. But I feel once you plan to get north of 265 TQ that you should be looking into upgrading your clutch.
 

ElementalHonda

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On a very cold day(negatives) in the midwest, at 18psi with the more aggressive spool and throttle response options set, my clutch slipped in 5th and 6th gear WOT hitting the gas at like 3.5krpm. Multiple times because I second guessed myself and said "Is the clutch really slipping?" and tried it again.

The next day it was in the mid 50's and it stopped though. Idk if the temp outside had anything to do with it. But I turned my spool and throttle response options down and it hasn't slipped since.
 

5inn

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On a very cold day(negatives) in the midwest, at 18psi with the more aggressive spool and throttle response options set, my clutch slipped in 5th and 6th gear WOT hitting the gas at like 3.5krpm. Multiple times because I second guessed myself and said "Is the clutch really slipping?" and tried it again.

The next day it was in the mid 50's and it stopped though. Idk if the temp outside had anything to do with it. But I turned my spool and throttle response options down and it hasn't slipped since.
Air is denser in colder weather, which means the turbo can shove more air into the engine. Turbos will produce more power in colder weather, so you must be on the edge!
 

ElementalHonda

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Air is denser in colder weather, which means the turbo can shove more air into the engine. Turbos will produce more power in colder weather, so you must be on the edge!
Makes sense, that's what I was thinking. Either my clutch wasn't warm enough to bite hard enough or the dense air was giving me more power. I also assumed the power coming on instantly from the quick spool time I had enabled instead of gradually was also not helping.
 

wopsi

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Clutchmasters uses the exact same pressure plate on all the kits. Pedal stiffness will be identical across the line.
On the procivic website, they describe each stiffness from each clutchmaster model and they vary from slighty increased pedal pressure to increased pedal pressure. I’ve been hearing the 300 is less stiffer than the 350 from members here. Not sure if different friction plates may cause it?
 


teders

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Have the stage 2 CAI from PRL with race MAF, as well as custom tune from Vit, now on the 5th tune-tweak. Have not noticed any clutch slipping, and currently at about 8k miles. Have had the ktuner since 4k
 

KramVT0215

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Have the stage 2 CAI from PRL with race MAF, as well as custom tune from Vit, now on the 5th tune-tweak. Have not noticed any clutch slipping, and currently at about 8k miles. Have had the ktuner since 4k
Just wait it will slip lol, my clutch legit slipped the second I finished my tune with Vit, the last couple calibrations when he asks to drive it like you stole it did the clutch in! I was tuned stock and it slipped after that. Ive got a FX350 ready to go in going to install myself in the next 2 weeks when I get the chance. I have a PRL CAI now too and ordering up a PRL downpipe\frontpipe combo then going to have Vit retune me. I had to go back to the 19.5\23psi ktuner map to limit the clutch slip 3-5 gear from 3.5k-5k rpms just doesn't hold.
 

CivicSi#38

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Running stock everything as of right now. I am running the base SI tune you can get from Vit on his site and the clutch slipped on the tune. I then used the KTuner 19/23 tune and turned the boost down to about 12 at 2500k and then slowly ramped it up to 19 at 4500k. The key here was not to ever increase the boost but merely tame it. The lower the RPMs can not handle that amount of torque but when the torque curve crosses at 5250k im all out until it falls flat at the top.. So needless to say the first upgrade on this car must be a clutch or you cannot do anything else.
 

WhiteCivicSi

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Maybe me? I literally just did rev hang delete, moved throttle response up one and set the padding so the car doesn't completely jerk from the rev hang delete. I'm fine with the Si's power, just wanted a bit better driving experience.
 

l15b7allturbo

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Maybe me? I literally just did rev hang delete, moved throttle response up one and set the padding so the car doesn't completely jerk from the rev hang delete. I'm fine with the Si's power, just wanted a bit better driving experience.
Or you can keep the throttle padding to standard and turn on rev hang if you want to stay in that gear without the jerk by clicking cruise button
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