wtam1100
Senior Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Accidentally didn't post this in the FK8 section copied n put it there, figured it might help someone down the rd. I read thru a lot of pages and I didn't see any of this info. Install isn't bad at all, kind of time consuming but not hard by any means. I install something similar in my Evo X and I feel it was a lot harder to install. I do recommend watching pawinning pov install video on YT for the FK8 before doing it. I like this video bc he also shows you how you can rock it w/ the center console deleted, which I did bc i love the way it looks and i dont daily my car and dont really have the need for the cup holders. He also gives a lot of pointers that does help out a lot. Don't need any fancy tools only thing you might not have are the trim tool remover or torque wrench (I don't feel u actually need, will go more in depth later) if you have a basic tool set. U defy need the trim tool remover they are super cheap n helpful I WOULDN'T try to pry with just a screwdriver even if you use a towel over it.
The hardest part of the whole install which I agree with pawinning is getting those dam clips off the harness that's attached to the center console. I initially tried using the right angle pick but for those I found better results with a flat head , but I'm sure it manged the clips more but it honestly wasn't too dmged but u can defy see marks. When you unbolt everything n unclip the usb port on the center console I found pulled the cc from the back seat easier to remove. Here is the prob the biggest tip I can offer since I f ed up myself. The torque specs they provide are in inch lbs something I have honestly never seen for car parts. Of course being someone that has also just worked in ft lbs when the base bolts said 62 i set my tq wrench n started cranking. Sure I should have know that this bolt shouldn't just keep on turning n i didnt hear a click, but after a few more turns the bolt snapped. Luckily it broke in a way it was easy for me to remove with pliers. If you find yourself in the same situation here are the spec of the bolts if you try to match it at the store (Zinc-Plated Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, M6 x 1 mm Thread, 40 mm Long). I went to lowes and HD they didnt have a 40 MM they only had a 30 MM. I bought a reg bolt instead for the time being. I hit up acuity n they offer to send me two new socket head screws for free if I paid for shipping. I took them up on the offer (good customer service, which we all heard they have).
Honestly I might not even unscrew the bolt and replace it with the socket head screw n just keep it for I ever return to stock and sell my car. All the tq settings for all the screws n everything on the short shiftier when converted to ft lbs is between 5 -6 ft lbs which is nothing. IMO you can't under tighten u can only over tighten. The only tq wrench had that could go that low was this one from harbor freight but that sh#t wasn't working too well. What I did was just choked all way up on the socket wrench n tighten everything making sure I didn't over crank. The problem when you use a tq wrench since its pretty long and gives u so much leverage u generate a lot of tq just be careful if you do like a half a turn and you don't hear a sound I wouldn't give it another turn.
After buttoning everything up going for the first drive. It feels really sick, really engaged no slop like it a lot. I do have to say going into 5th like a of people have said in reviews can be semi difficult and requires a decent amt of force. I have a really heavy shift knob (twm big type r shift knob) and it still requires a decent amt of force to get into 5th. Its not horrible just something to note. Be careful if you are in 5th and you want to take it to N. Since you prob adpt a new style of shift w/ more force for my settings at least once I pull down from 5th w/ semi force it would go straight into 4th. I just want to give this warning in case someone is about to stop and tries to go from 5th to N but accidentally goes into 4th then panics. I need to drive it a bunch more cus I know certain aspects of it does break it. I know this is long AF but I have nothing but time now lol, hopes it helps someone out there.
The hardest part of the whole install which I agree with pawinning is getting those dam clips off the harness that's attached to the center console. I initially tried using the right angle pick but for those I found better results with a flat head , but I'm sure it manged the clips more but it honestly wasn't too dmged but u can defy see marks. When you unbolt everything n unclip the usb port on the center console I found pulled the cc from the back seat easier to remove. Here is the prob the biggest tip I can offer since I f ed up myself. The torque specs they provide are in inch lbs something I have honestly never seen for car parts. Of course being someone that has also just worked in ft lbs when the base bolts said 62 i set my tq wrench n started cranking. Sure I should have know that this bolt shouldn't just keep on turning n i didnt hear a click, but after a few more turns the bolt snapped. Luckily it broke in a way it was easy for me to remove with pliers. If you find yourself in the same situation here are the spec of the bolts if you try to match it at the store (Zinc-Plated Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, M6 x 1 mm Thread, 40 mm Long). I went to lowes and HD they didnt have a 40 MM they only had a 30 MM. I bought a reg bolt instead for the time being. I hit up acuity n they offer to send me two new socket head screws for free if I paid for shipping. I took them up on the offer (good customer service, which we all heard they have).
Honestly I might not even unscrew the bolt and replace it with the socket head screw n just keep it for I ever return to stock and sell my car. All the tq settings for all the screws n everything on the short shiftier when converted to ft lbs is between 5 -6 ft lbs which is nothing. IMO you can't under tighten u can only over tighten. The only tq wrench had that could go that low was this one from harbor freight but that sh#t wasn't working too well. What I did was just choked all way up on the socket wrench n tighten everything making sure I didn't over crank. The problem when you use a tq wrench since its pretty long and gives u so much leverage u generate a lot of tq just be careful if you do like a half a turn and you don't hear a sound I wouldn't give it another turn.
After buttoning everything up going for the first drive. It feels really sick, really engaged no slop like it a lot. I do have to say going into 5th like a of people have said in reviews can be semi difficult and requires a decent amt of force. I have a really heavy shift knob (twm big type r shift knob) and it still requires a decent amt of force to get into 5th. Its not horrible just something to note. Be careful if you are in 5th and you want to take it to N. Since you prob adpt a new style of shift w/ more force for my settings at least once I pull down from 5th w/ semi force it would go straight into 4th. I just want to give this warning in case someone is about to stop and tries to go from 5th to N but accidentally goes into 4th then panics. I need to drive it a bunch more cus I know certain aspects of it does break it. I know this is long AF but I have nothing but time now lol, hopes it helps someone out there.
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