ACT Clutch + Lightweight Flywheel Unboxing & Review

FlexRex

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You may be right about peak hp. Though i. Really doubt it really effects peak hp too much.

I speak from putting smf on multiple of my cars over the years. And the added benefit of a free revving engine has always been the what ive seen coming from doing that mod.

These dfm's are far timo heavy in these cars. 36lbs is just to much for a 1.5t engine. You can feel it if you turn your engine off to quickly after running it. Or by the rev hang you still feel even after tuning it.

Show me one track car with a dmf setup if you honestly think they are better performers
That’s exactly it. I don’t track my car so I don’t want the added performance for example...assuming you’re correct and it adds performance. I don’t want it and I don’t want to pay for it, and I may not be the only one. There are definite drawbacks for daily driving on smf vs dmf just like there are benefits to smf in racing applications. If there weren’t any disadvantages to dailying on a smf every manufacturer would use smf which are cheaper anyway.

I don’t have any rev hang. It’s been custom tuned out.

It was like 4-5whp if I remember. And you need to comprehend better what you read. Read slower perhaps, or more than once. I did not say dmf performs better. But the single most important reason smf is used in racing is cuz it’s direct and harder to destroy under cont power/shifting and race conditions. BUT also a direct effect/result of this formerly mention benefit (smf being one solid mass) is added nvh.
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Maroco

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You never said a dmf performs better. But you did say a smf makes less power. Symantics.

You may not wanna "pay" for the extra performance or a smf. But the fact of the matter is, a smf setup is cheaper than buying a new dmf because you stock dmf cant be resurfaced. So if you want the stock performance, you will pay for that.

Dollar for dollar the smf, to me, seems to be the smart choice.
 

FlexRex

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You never said a dmf performs better. But you did say a smf makes less power. Symantics.

You may not wanna "pay" for the extra performance or a smf. But the fact of the matter is, a smf setup is cheaper than buying a new dmf because you stock dmf cant be resurfaced. So if you want the stock performance, you will pay for that.

Dollar for dollar the smf, to me, seems to be the smart choice.
I said of one instance of a guy who put lighter wheels and expected gains only to see less whp. My dmf is $100, see previous post. And yes, I don’t want thoughtless performance. Solid mounts are performance upgrades but at what cost.

To me things aren’t just as simple as if it’s got “more performance” I want it. Everything comes at a cost of something else. When you say increased performance I’m sure you mean more whp and faster. But what if I wanted my clutch to perform better in nvh and smoothness? Depends what one means by better performance I guess.
 

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I said of one instance of a guy who put lighter wheels and expected gains only to see less whp. My dmf is 100, see previous post. And yes, I don’t want thoughtless performance. Solid mounts are performance upgrades but at what cost.

To me things aren’t just as simple as if it’s got “more performance” I want it. Everything comes at a cost of something else. When you say performance
The English language is bitch sometime
 
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Drew36

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I said of one instance of a guy who put lighter wheels and expected gains only to see less whp. My dmf is $100, see previous post. And yes, I don’t want thoughtless performance. Solid mounts are performance upgrades but at what cost.

To me things aren’t just as simple as if it’s got “more performance” I want it. Everything comes at a cost of something else. When you say increased performance I’m sure you mean more whp and faster. But what if I wanted my clutch to perform better in nvh and smoothness? Depends what one means by better performance I guess.
I suppose it all depends on what goals you have set, everyone chooses to mod there cars however they like. DMF will for sure give a more comfortable ride whereas the SMF will give someone a rev happy engine. All depends on personal goals
 


FlexRex

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I suppose it all depends on what goals you have set, everyone chooses to mod there cars however they like. DMF will for sure give a more comfortable ride whereas the SMF will give someone a rev happy engine. All depends on personal goals
Of course. Two issues here that got conflated, one is personal preference and other is smf providing performance. Former aside, and this being your thread, I tried focusing on the latter issue which is that lighter flywheel doesn’t directly equate to better performance as there are cons also to a lighter rotational mass due to laws of physics. It is NOT just pure advantages (what common folk refer to as performance). Does that make sense?

If one digs a bit further one would find out that the main advantage and why it’s used to racing is cuz it’s solid piece of metal and is less likely to suffer a failure during a race. All other pros, like free revving for example also have an equal con, less inertia/momentum. Solid mas equals more nvh. Etc similarly.

Aftermarket companies will jump on the lighter weight and just market it as a pro, but it is not JUST a pro/positive. It has definite drawbacks AS WELL and especially so when not used in high perf racing applications where it enjoys its main benefit, solid mass less likely to fail.

I’m sure you will give us a detailed impression after your install. But from my 2 previous experiences with racing smf, i can tell you I wish I didn’t. The cons (nvh, idle chatter, starting on an uphill, rev matching) outweigh any hypothetical pros (not racing myself).. in my experience.
 
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Drew36

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Of course. Two issues here that got conflated, one is personal preference and other is smf providing performance. Former aside, and this being your thread, I tried focusing on the latter issue which is that lighter flywheel doesn’t directly equate to better performance as there are cons also to a lighter rotational mass due to laws of physics. It is NOT just pure advantages (what common folk refer to as performance). Does that make sense?

If one digs a bit further one would find out that the main advantage and why it’s used to racing is cuz it’s solid piece of metal and is less likely to suffer a failure during a race. All other pros, like free revving for example also have an equal con, less inertia/momentum. Solid mas equals more nvh. Etc similarly.

Aftermarket companies will jump on the lighter weight and just market it as a pro, but it is not JUST a pro/positive. It has definite drawbacks AS WELL and especially so when not used in high perf racing applications where it enjoys its main benefit, solid mass less likely to fail.

I’m sure you will give us a detailed impression after your install. But from my 2 previous experiences with racing smf, i can tell you I wish I didn’t. The cons (nvh, idle chatter, starting on an uphill, rev matching) outweigh any hypothetical pros (not racing myself).. in my experience.
Awesome. Yeah I will for sure let you know how it ends up turning out
 
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Drew36

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Looking forward to the review post install and post break in. If there really is no drivability and NVH issues then it’s always a good thing to have more options on our hands.
 

FlexRex

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@Drew36 if you can, it may be good to do 1-3 pulls w data logging before you install the clutch kit. Try to find a piece of road where you could do it again and again so to keep that constant. 2nd or 3rd gear would be better.

Then once installed you could datalog a few pulls again and then we can compare for any differences in actual performance. If you send me the files I can virtual dyno them for comparisons. Or you could get vd yourself and play w it. It’s pretty accurate if you keep temp/road constant.

Another guy installed an action clutch kit w smf and reported chatter in reverse only first. Now it’s in 1 and 2. Just posted asking if he has chatter in neutral on idle w clutch in and clutch out. Also asked if he felt any perf increase but that’s subjective so I’m sure he did “feel it.” But that gave me the idea to datalog a few pulls and then we can compare actual data (without emotions) pre and post.
 
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Drew36

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@Drew36 if you can, it may be good to do 1-3 pulls w data logging before you install the clutch kit. Try to find a piece of road where you could do it again and again so to keep that constant. 2nd or 3rd gear would be better.

Then once installed you could datalog a few pulls again and then we can compare for any differences in actual performance. If you send me the files I can virtual dyno them for comparisons. Or you could get vd yourself and play w it. It’s pretty accurate if you keep temp/road constant.

Another guy installed an action clutch kit w smf and reported chatter in reverse only first. Now it’s in 1 and 2. Just posted asking if he has chatter in neutral on idle w clutch in and clutch out. Also asked if he felt any perf increase but that’s subjective so I’m sure he did “feel it.” But that gave me the idea to datalog a few pulls and then we can compare actual data (without emotions) pre and post.
Great idea! I will try to data log a couple pulls tomorrow
 

FlexRex

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Get vd and as long as its same stretch of road and not a drastic temp difference it should be pretty accurate. Those are some of my revisions when etuning for 91oct. Its pretty repeatable unless there is timing pull or knock.

And that graphs is only on smoothing 2. The more you smooth the more they will look alike, but you lose detail.

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