2019 CPB Hatchback Sport 6MT - daily spirited driving (LA, socal)

  1. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    07/16/2019

    Disabled rev hang again and gave it another go. The on/off gas feels more natural somehow. Maybe all I had to do was sleep on it lol

    Car feels super raw, downshifts especially are snappy and combined with the short shifter it's really fun to drive. Engine mounts really bring it all together for a solid drive.
     
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    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    #17 geeeek, Jul 20, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2019
    07/20/2019

    prl cold air intake (street maf) and rallyarmor mud flaps added today.

    the cold air intake sounds soo good when I’m on the boost. Couldn’t stop smiling driving around with it the first time. Luckily I went through a freeway overpass and got that sssssss PSSSHHHH blasting through the air hahaha. I need to go through that tunnel in downtown on 3rd street at night...

    mud flaps are cool. I noticed some rock chips in the paint behind my wheels so that should stop, but of course it was mostly for looks lol. The mud flaps scrape so much with the d2 springs but I have faith these are really durable. I saw a post on rally armor’s insta where one of their trucks was on an incline and the mud flaps were bent like 90 degrees and basically advertising their durability

    prl cai
    9AB08BEA-FAA4-4C26-AF38-CB1686C1C2F3.jpeg

    6CC614D8-B3D5-4BE9-B198-844F516061AC.jpeg


    mud flaps (text on wheel side, going to switch)
    88B0B671-202C-4A29-9FCB-9F8B2D6CFC5F.jpeg

    822AA254-3B72-4020-8D44-88086E25B33D.jpeg
     
  3. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    07/24/2019

    Ever since I had the rmm installed I made the habit of never driving with the AC on. But since it's been blazing hot the past 2 weeks, I caved in yesterday and drove home with the AC on. And I made a strange observation... the car felt better to drive with less power. So I went ahead and flashed my car to ktuner stage 1, instead of the starter map with all the quick adjustments that I had. The boost doesn't feel as intense but at the same time it's more fun to drive because the car isn't as sensitive. Like I ride out first and second just because I want to, whereas before I was always short shifting because the car felt too twitchy.

    Also I think the side mounts have fully broken in, and the inside of my car sounds like old school modded hondas which I love. I'm driving with the windows up now because it's so satisfying to hear the car rev out from the inside.
     
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    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    #19 geeeek, Aug 8, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2019
    08/05/2018

    Got TunerView working on an amazon fire 7 tablet and mounted it to the left of the steering wheel. Also I got the Si shift knob thanks to @arpypat. Didn't have time this week to properly install the boot collar so the boot is just held on by interior tape lol. I have the acuity boot collar from a previous shift knob that I tried out so I'll be using that later.

    Another thing, I never realized how dusty the inside of my car is until I took these pics. Especially the one with flash..


    right now sits at the same height as the oem sport knob, hoping I can put it down 1-2cm somehow.
    Photo Aug 05, 11 20 29 PM.jpg


    mount point for the magnetic stand
    Photo Aug 05, 4 57 30 PM.jpg


    tunerview!
    Photo Aug 07, 3 03 56 PM.jpg
     
  5. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    #20 geeeek, Aug 10, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2019
    08/09/2019

    BC racing coilovers, godspeed camber arms, 20mm garageline spacers, and shift boot collar installed today. Front was raised about 1/2 inch from D2 springs in the front, and rears were adjusted to have the same gap. I'd say the ride height is very similar to eibach sportlines right now. Dampening set to 15/30 clicks to start. I really need an alignment because the left rear has a lot of camber and the right side doesn't. Have an appointment set on the 11th this sunday.

    Ride quality feels a lot more controlled. With the D2 springs, it was harsh over bumps and yet it still felt wobbly. Now it's so much better since the dampers are matched. Going to see if I need to adjust dampening after I get more driving time.

    Also I did my first oil change at 3500 miles with 15% oil life which seemed a bit fast, and changed the transmission fluid to amsoil synchromesh. Shifter goes into gears more smoothly, it’s not a huge difference but overall gives a better experience.


    ride height
    Photo Aug 10, 11 42 52 AM.jpg


    wheel fitment
    Photo Aug 09, 7 10 23 PM.jpg


    rear suspension shot
    Photo Aug 10, 11 42 42 AM.jpg


    front suspension shot
    Photo Aug 10, 11 43 08 AM.jpg


    pic of camber arms before install
    Photo Aug 10, 11 42 47 AM.jpg


    pictures of shifter
    Photo Aug 10, 11 37 57 AM.jpg

    Photo Aug 10, 11 40 00 AM.jpg
     
  6. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    08/11/2019

    Got an alignment today. Specs at bottom of post.

    Changed the coilover dampening from 15/15 to 20/20, then 18/20 since the front felt a bit too bumpy on bad streets. Might put it back to 16 lol I never realized how terrible the roads are here. That being said the ride is still much better than just springs like mentioned before, it feels much more controlled. Like despite going over a million bumps it feels like it has the perfect amount of travel and resistance compared to lowering springs. If I got another car, first 2 mods I would do are rmm and coilovers. Really wish I skipped the springs and went straight for these, but now I can appreciate them more haha


    at the alignment shop Chewerks
    Photo Aug 11, 11 58 23 AM.jpg


    pics from rear
    Photo Aug 11, 1 55 06 PM.png
    Photo Aug 11, 1 54 51 PM.png


    pics from front (steering wheel slightly turned)
    Photo Aug 11, 2 02 31 PM.png
    Photo Aug 11, 2 03 08 PM.png


    alignment specs
    Photo Aug 11, 12 17 31 PM.jpg
     
  7. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    #22 geeeek, Aug 15, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2019
    08/14/2019

    prl intercooler and oem side engine mount+window weld today.

    I filled the oem side engine mount with window weld and it's back in. Transmission mount is still hasport 62A and rmm is still 27won's. The shop suggested I swap just the oem side engine mount to reduce noise and they were 100% right. Car is much quieter now, if I'm on the freeway I can't hear the rpm's like I used to. Even in the streets I find myself revving out the engine without realizing because I'm so used to hearing the engine scream at me above 3k lol. Going to take a day or two to get used to it again. The car feels so much smoother because the harshness of the engine is pretty much gone, it's just the sweet hum of the engine. I'd already taken care of the dash rattles before and now it's nonexistent.

    The car does not feel steel solid anymore as expected, but it only feels slightly more mushy than before which is probably the window weld doing it's work. It's the perfect balance of rigidity and noise for me.


    prl intercooler
    Photo Aug 15, 1 41 03 PM.jpg


    passenger side engine mount + window weld
    Photo Aug 14, 7 13 28 PM.jpg
    Photo Aug 14, 7 13 39 PM.jpg
    Photo Aug 14, 7 13 46 PM.jpg


    passenger side engine mount before window weld for anyone curious
    Photo Aug 10, 7 37 24 PM.jpg
    Photo Aug 10, 7 37 09 PM.jpg
    Photo Aug 10, 7 40 05 PM.jpg
    Photo Aug 10, 7 39 39 PM.jpg
     
  8. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    08/17/2019

    moved the license plate to the passenger side fake vent.


    Photo Aug 19, 1 36 35 PM.jpg





    08/19/2019

    removed the intercooler mesh. There's an aluminum bar inside the entire length of the lip and 2 support bars so the lip is rigid without the mesh supporting it. The bars are pretty ricey honestly but I love it. Maybe should have used rods but I don't feel the need to switch except for the looks


    Photo Aug 19, 7 18 40 PM.jpg
     
  9. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    08/22/2019

    flashed back to starter 18psi map. Wanted a bit more responsiveness than the stage 1 base map, but not the throttle hair trigger that I had previously with the starter map which made driving unbearable

    throttle responsiveness: improved 1
    turbo spool - improved 2
    turbo responsiveness - improved 2
    boost target ramp rate - factory
    quick spool - enabled
    rev hang - disabled

    so now the turbo spools quickly but smoothly, don't have any complaints even with the lack of throttle padding option. Windows down with the CAI all day. Although, I don't go into boost that often, even though I regularly shift at 3k-4.5k just to hear the engine a bit. Also it feels more reliable in LA traffic, hate upshifting and then immediately need to downshift because someone decided to slow down.
     
  10. TypeSiR

    TypeSiR Senior Member

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    You're not concerned with rocks on the road? I'm just the opposite and will put some gutter guard on top of the intercooler mesh. I'm seeing rock chips on the bumper and some fins on the stock intercooler are already dented. Anyway, best of luck.
     
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    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    Not too much, if I do notice a bunch of dents popping up in the next few weeks I can just put the mesh back on since the whole thing was removed in one piece (no cutting) it was basically held in by clips. It’s sitting in my trunk right now lol
     
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    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    08/27/2019

    was moving my car at work and destroyed the side skirt on a curb. I was at the corner spot, except the actual furthest 2 corner spots are made into a sharp curb. Forgot it was there and turned before clearing it.. sigh

    The ripped part is held with tape right now, I don't plan on fully repairing it and restoring the paint. I'm just going to see if everything can be bent back into place so the clips and screws line up and just hold the torn areas with black duct tape. Honda quoted me $430 for the part and their labor is probably really high.. and body work for such a "minor" part doesn't feel worth it. I'll see how it looks before going for a full on repair. I'm expecting it to look pretty bad still, but my main concern is it getting caught somewhere or falling off somehow


    diagram of parking lot which I hate now
    diagram.png


    pictures of damage
    Photo Aug 27, 1 43 08 PM.jpg
    Photo Aug 27, 1 42 57 PM.jpg
     
  13. TypeSiR

    TypeSiR Senior Member

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    It's can be DIY. Either buy the new part from dealer or buy used from junkyard/classifieds. I've seen a few listed here for half that. Good luck.
     
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  14. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    originally was thinking junkyard after calling the dealership, but going to see if I can just remove the piece, bend it back into shape and patch up any torn parts with strong tape (serious). As long as it stays put I'm ok with it. When I looked under the car one of the circular clips is definitely busted but if the other ones are good it should be fine
     
  15. OP
    geeeek

    geeeek Senior Member

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    08/30/2019

    quick fix on the side skirt. Basically lined up all the clips and stitched the tear with zip ties and drilled holes. Spray painted over the damaged area so the white scratches don't show. It's not too pretty but it works

    Photo Sep 05, 9 18 10 PM.jpg




    09/09/2019

    got Eman's modified cmc ("kzcmc") which bypasses the clutch disengage dampener in a stock cmc. We also traded prl maf's+pipe so now I have the race maf and pipe for the cai on my car. Apparently some guy got the race maf by mistake and wanted the street maf and I came in at the right time lol


    race maf and pipe
    IMG_5200.JPG


    image of Eman's cmc from his instagram
    Screenshot_2019-09-11 Emmanuel.png




    09/11/2019

    the race maf threw my fuel trims way off even with the ktuner preset race maf scale. At idle stft was hovering at +15 to +20 and ltft would go up to about +10. Overall was kind of high especially at light throttle. Spent my free time datalogging for mean stft(%) vs afm(V) and adjusting the afm g/s on the ktuner maf scale based on stft. Did 2 rounds of adjustments. Set ltft to 0 while logging data. I was only able to drive 10 min after my 2nd adjustment (ltft range back to default) but my ltft seems set on +/-1 so far. Will see how it is tomorrow

    I didn't think it would make much of a difference but the power delivery feels much smoother. I can actually feather the throttle now. Before even with the street maf I had some issues with throttle inputs feeling slightly jerky. And in turn it makes clutch engagement smoother when I do a quick slip into gear with light throttle.

    My butt dyno says I am a jet with the bigger cai and the adjustments. It just spools and pulls when I lay down the pedal. Also I just noticed today that the cai "snaps" at me when I downshift at 3k or above. A quick ssPSHH, feels awesome.

    info on how to do this in these threads:
    https://www.civicx.com/threads/those-that-are-tuned-calibrate-your-afm.39698/
    https://www.civicx.com/threads/ktuner-maf-scaling-help.40459/
    https://www.civicx.com/threads/ktuner-stft-ltft-tuning.20980/
     
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