2019 Civic Si Coupe - Speaker Upgrade

  1. j_si19

    j_si19 Senior Member

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    #1 j_si19, Aug 1, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2019
    I have been doing a lot of research in terms of upgrading speaker components in the Civic. So with the Si, I do have the 10 speaker "Premium system". I am still new to this, so if I am asking anything that doesn't make sense just tell me please.
    **Side note: Having a lot of sub bass is not very important to me. I want to just have overall better sound quality/listening experience. I don't need a lot of power or loudness.**

    I have a list of POTENTIAL OPTIONS for upgrades to the stock speakers.

    Do I need anything else? Will this give me a noticeable difference in sound quality?
    Amp wiring kit is implied.

    Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
     
  2. kperalta

    kperalta AluminiumCivic

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    These are great. You can make 5 1/4s fit in the rear btw but you'll want a component set as well since it is component and without summing you'll want to stick to it. You won't need the crossovers that come with your speakers put an inline basis blocker on the tweeters tho
     
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  3. OP
    j_si19

    j_si19 Senior Member

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    Since I have the Coupe, will I have to make any modifications to accomodate 5 1/4? I remember reading on here somewhere that the sedan and coupe have different rear deck sizes.
     
  4. kperalta

    kperalta AluminiumCivic

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    The sedans have a 6.5 in the rear. You won't have to make any mods, but you'll have to use a speaker bracket.
     
  5. OP
    j_si19

    j_si19 Senior Member

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    Okay thank you for the info! So here is what I have as my updated list.

     
  6. kperalta

    kperalta AluminiumCivic

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    #6 kperalta, Aug 1, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2019
    Do like a 3000-4000hz cap Car Audio Fabrication has a good video on choosing a cap for a speaker lol. You're not using it as a crossover, the amp is. You're just protecting it
     
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  7. OP
    j_si19

    j_si19 Senior Member

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    Thank you, I'll look into it! I'll update this thread hopefully in the next few weeks of the install.
     
  8. OP
    j_si19

    j_si19 Senior Member

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    Okay so I have a clarification question if anyone can help me out. Through what I have read on these forums, it seems like the general consensus when hooking up a sub is to tap into the front L&R speakers. In terms of having the sub turn on, should I be taping into the existing subwoofer on the rear deck? Or should I find a different source?
     
  9. shoegazer

    shoegazer assistant to the assistant manager

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    #9 shoegazer, Aug 3, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2019
    If I understand this all correctly...

    That sub/amp has an option for automatic power on when it senses or detects a signal from the inputs. So whatever you use for the input should turn the thing on and off.

    Call me crazy... but why not just see what the factory sub's signal sounds like going through your new sub? If it's 'good enough'; the install should be a lot easier.

    Anyway... the 'power mode' on your new sub/amp has a setting for high power inputs and line level inputs. You're using the high power ones. Set that switch and it should turn on and off automatically with the HU.

    But let someone else confirm all of the above before ya' go nuts.

    Good luck. And I hope that Lady Tigra and Bunny D. approve.
     
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  10. consentual_induction

    consentual_induction Senior Member

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    #10 consentual_induction, Aug 6, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
    ive done many a car mod, especially electronics and audio, lemme just say how i would do this

    -EDIT: people run POWERED sub replacment off rear speakers. Although you could do the next point:
    -person above is right, try it off the stock sub signal. I can even say for a fact itll be punchier by a bit, no comparison for a powered woofer. and youll have direct control in head unit
    -consider an amp and powered subwoofer- they can be set to complement the rest of the setup, not shaking dishes in the next state :) I have 10" woofers with the crossover set to 120 in order to hit frequencies that the door speakers do.
    -under chair subs are an option that people like.

    BUT THE BEST UPGRADE IS....

    literally just a new head unit
     
  11. kperalta

    kperalta AluminiumCivic

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    Wait, so you're telling me that you know people who have literally just tapped the signal off the rear speakers and connected it to a subwoofer without an amp? Let me know where I can find a sub that runs off between 22-45W split between a mid range and a sub and also doesn't destroy the channel considering it'll be running in parallel at that point. Just let me know pls. Cause I'd like to try it out. Also I wanna hear the beaming due to the fact the sub is receiving a full range signal.

    Anyways, OP, tap the fronts for the signal to your amp. Rears in most cases will be fine, but the rears are always the most affected by bass roll off so if the front channels aren't inaccessible they're a safer bet. You can use the sub channel if you want, but idk about you I don't like the current output of my sub. Playing straight 80hz to it is horrible. Not what I expect from a sub. So I don't know what the crossover is set to for the sub channel but according to a post by SCOPESYS it's a band pass between 10hz-45hz. Seems a little odd, but homie took an RTA to it so it's all we've got.

    Also, shake the dishes in the next damn state if you want to. Tired of hearing that. I get so many customers who buy cheap shit and justify it by "hurrr I don't want shake my kidneys hehehehe" or my favorite, "I'm not a teenager no more so i don't wanna rattle my whole car hehehehe". Acting like a 12" is gonna hit like a damn 24" just because it didn't cost 50 bucks. :mad:
     
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  12. consentual_induction

    consentual_induction Senior Member

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    i bought two 10" jl w3's with a 2x1000w amp...its not cheap, its quality. I do home audio, so i prefer something with the capacity for rattling the house when demanded, but sounds clean af at low levels...so im sure youll agree that you jumped to a conclusion there unless you can find JL's and an amp for $50

    As per the first part you quoted, im sure youre right, sounds like youre more knowledgeable on that point (if not trigger happy with the raging)
     
  13. consentual_induction

    consentual_induction Senior Member

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    op, anyways my point was try investing in small (but quality) powered subs that will give clarity. you can leave em on low, it actually sounds great (again, low pass filter set higher so theres no roll off, as it typically is a 20hz band pass in my experiences). This means your subwoofer/s and door speakers will share some of the same frequencies, making it more cohesive, especially when using small woofer/s at low gain
     
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  14. consentual_induction

    consentual_induction Senior Member

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    no thats for amplified systems, i corrected my post.
     
  15. kperalta

    kperalta AluminiumCivic

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    Wasn't referring to you, i was speaking in a general sense. That last comment was pent up aggression aimed at my customers who think more money on subs=louder. W3s are great, but the only JL amp I like is the VXi.
     
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