2018 Type R Oil Change Info

  1. OneSickFK8

    OneSickFK8 Senior Member

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    Where?
     
  2. CTR1633FK2

    CTR1633FK2 Senior Member

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    It does not matter that much. These 3 are close to each other. The best is to get a oil temp gauge and watch the engine oil temperature. Too bad the FK8 does not have one. The FK2R does have one built in. If the oil temperature never gets higher than 100 degC (212F), then 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 are all fine. The 0W-20 oil has to be the Honda Type 2 oil or equivalent.
     
  3. samji

    samji Senior Member

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    I read the sensor is in there, it's just not shown to the driver. If you get a tune and hack your infotainment system, you can get a oil temp readout but not 100% sure.
     
  4. tinyman392

    tinyman392 Senior Member

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    There was a post a while back about a tech bulletin circulating from Honda telling dealerships not to change the factory engine oil early since it was specially formulated to aid in the breaking in of the motor since that oil wasn't available as retail.
     
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  5. OneSickFK8

    OneSickFK8 Senior Member

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    Ok I need to find that.
     
  6. OneSickFK8

    OneSickFK8 Senior Member

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    I jacked this from another thread. Great post! The entire reason the MM takes it so far is to accelerate wear on the engine and rings. Now it's your vehicle and you need to do what you see fit. I'm almost at 3000miles. I'm going to hold back a little longer and shoot for a change around 3750 miles. That's where I feel comfortable. Not to early. Not to crazy at 5000+.

     
  7. tinyman392

    tinyman392 Senior Member

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    Which makes sense, and supports the claim of the bulletin that says to leave it in until the MM minds you. Basically, wear the rings so they seat properly in the cylinder. It's also kind of weird that the MM for the first oil change came up for me at 7000 miles. I was driving the car very easily and very chill during this time... Yet all my maintenance minders after were much longer than 7k miles, mainly 8k, 8k, and 9k.
     
  8. OneSickFK8

    OneSickFK8 Senior Member

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    Yes and no. There is a fine line between too much wear and where a motor goes from tight to loose. Remember that Honda said all this about there TDI engines and now have to offer extended warranties on them. I'd prefer to be on the tighter side and let the very final break-in happen with AMS Oil which is what I'll be running for the life of the car. Also remember that it's a blend and full synthetic oil is technically smaller on a molecular level. So going full bang on a blend and then going full synthetic may result in oil consumption down the line.
     
  9. tinyman392

    tinyman392 Senior Member

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    #84 tinyman392, Dec 3, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019
    You're talking about the oil dilution issues where gas was getting into the oil? Yes, it looks like Honda did extend warranties on it, but the underlying issue (according to them) wasn't the fact that the break in was done improperly or properly... They made a statement in which they said that the issue occurs more with cars that are in cold conditions. Meaning, their investigation linked the issue with the cold, nothing to do with the break in procedure or lack there of. This statement lead a lot of people to believe that Honda was running their engines too rich in colder temperatures leading to the issues.

    I'm not sure if Honda extended the warranties because 1) customers were angry and this was a quick fix 2) actual damage was done to the engine and or 3) it's an underlying issue with the design of the engine. I'd wager (1) for sure, possibly (2), I'm doubtful on (3) though. In the past we have seen other manufacturers cover up design issues that would lead to catastrophic failure down the line, Nissan and Ford both with their transmissions (CVT and DCT). I'm not sure if this falls into the case, but I'm not lead to believe that a proper, nor improper, break in procedure with the motor was the cause of the oil dilution issue.

    Edit: was the official fix an ECU update to fix the issue? If the problem was mechanical (as you would claim it is, due to over-breaking in of the motor), wouldn't the fix not be software based and rather hardware based? And I'd also argue that if the FK8 did have this issue you're speaking of, we probably would have read about it by now in the 5 years the motor has been used (2015 was the first year the motor was used, 2020 models are on their way, 5 years).
     
  10. The Vyzitor

    The Vyzitor Senior Member

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    the other important and telling thing to note, is that they recommend if you’re not using Honda oil, to use an oil that is ACEA A3 or A5 rated. ACEA A5 oils start at a HTHS of 2.9 mPa and goes up, and ACEA A3 start at HTHS 3.5. You will have trouble finding many 0w20 oils that meet such a HTHS rating. Most are A1. Redline 0w20 just makes the grade at 2.9 mPa and that is one of the hardiest 0w20s on the market
     
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  11. avariceSD

    avariceSD Member

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    I just got the oil changed the other day at 7850 miles, was at 20% oil life. Dealership where I bought it did oil change for free and also rotated tires. They used Honda oil and the Honda dealer closest to my house uses Quaker State so don’t think I’ll be going there anytime soon.
     
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