2 10” Kicker Subwoofers installed in stock 2018 EX-T

[Dizzlerod]

Just installed 2 10” Kicker subwoofers I had into my EX-T Sedan. Being a big DIY guy, I did the complete install myself. I used a quality 4-gauge wiring kit (Bought on Amazon for $50) for the amplifier so I can upgrade the subwoofers and amp in the near future. To keep everything in the trunk, I used a line out converter (LOC2SL, also on Amazon) to tap into the rear speakers and convert the signal to RCA. This was convenient given the rear deck speakers are exposed on the roof of the trunk. I ran all wires from the trunk ceiling under the carpet to where the spare tire carpet folds up. This install was relatively easy, and sounds great! The longest process was running the power wire for the amp. from the battery to the trunk. The trim came out with ease, allowing me to slip in the huge 4 gauge wire alongside a stock wiring harness. The line out converter I bought came with a bass knob, and I put it in next to the traction control button in an empty switch slot. I tried my best to make it look stock, which came out much better than I expected. Here are some pictures of the process and final product!

 

[jsharon]

How much did everything run you? How did you mount the sub to the floor?

 

[Dizzlerod]

How much did everything run you? How did you mount the sub to the floor?

I just found this package deal on Amazon. 2 10 inch kickers in a ported box, amplifier and wiring kit included for $250. Basically the same thing I have, except my subs are an older model and I bought a high quality wiring kit for $50. Amp is the same.
2 Kicker 43C104 10" 600 Watt Car Subwoofers + Box + 1100W Amplifier + Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0108JXM4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pg.BEbZPWM0KT
Also, you will need a line out converter to get RCA inputs and an amp turn on wire for the amplifier. Here is the one I bought for $20.
SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier with Add-On Adapter and Remote Control Knob, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIAHSM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ul.BEbCAD7F5C

So for only about $270 plus the cost of extra wire for the line out converter, you can get a similar setup to what I have. It sounds great!
And as far as mounting, I have not done that yet. I will just get some 90° metal brackets and secure them into the trunk floor.

 

[jsharon]

I just found this package deal on Amazon. 2 10 inch kickers in a ported box, amplifier and wiring kit included for $250. Basically the same thing I have, except my subs are an older model and I bought a high quality wiring kit for $50. Amp is the same.
2 Kicker 43C104 10" 600 Watt Car Subwoofers + Box + 1100W Amplifier + Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0108JXM4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pg.BEbZPWM0KT
Also, you will need a line out converter to get RCA inputs and an amp turn on wire for the amplifier. Here is the one I bought for $20.
SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier with Add-On Adapter and Remote Control Knob, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIAHSM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ul.BEbCAD7F5C

So for only about $270 plus the cost of extra wire for the line out converter, you can get a similar setup to what I have. It sounds great!
And as far as mounting, I have not done that yet. I will just get some 90° metal brackets and secure them into the trunk floor.

I have an aftermarket head unit with rca outs so I can just use the RCA out to the amp without the line out converter?

 

[PandaXpress]

how did you get the Power wire through the fire wall?

 

[Dizzlerod]

I have an aftermarket head unit with rca outs so I can just use the RCA out to the amp without the line out converter?

Yes that definitely works! The only pain will be running the wires to the trunk, but it is no where near as bad as hooking up the line out converter. Also you will have to run a tiny amp turn on wire with the RCA cables to the trunk. This will come with the amp wiring kit!

 

[Dizzlerod]

how did you get the Power wire through the fire wall?

If you remove the battery and the battery tray, there is a rubber grommet directly behind it going into the car. Carefully pierce through this with a fairly thick screwdriver (making sure not to damage the existing wiring harness) and then tape the power wire end to end with the screwdriver on the other side. Then carefully pull the screwdriver back out with the wire attached. might need some kind of lube if it’s giving problems lol.
Here is a picture of the battery removed and the screwdriver sticking through the grommet.

 

[bbeem]

but it is no where near as bad as hooking up the line out converter.

Whats hard, the location? Can you just tap into the rear speaker or sub wires that are easy to access?

Is there a decent route for 4g wire under the car? Like virtually hidden if on a lift. Will be running the wire with car on the lift so might be easy if theres a good route.

 

[SI(ck)Civic]

how did you get the Power wire through the fire wall?

You can also go through the driver side fender, still completely shielded, it’s the easiest way in my opinion

 

[SI(ck)Civic]

Just installed 2 10” Kicker subwoofers I had into my EX-T Sedan. Being a big DIY guy, I did the complete install myself. I used a quality 4-gauge wiring kit (Bought on Amazon for $50) for the amplifier so I can upgrade the subwoofers and amp in the near future. To keep everything in the trunk, I used a line out converter (LOC2SL, also on Amazon) to tap into the rear speakers and convert the signal to RCA. This was convenient given the rear deck speakers are exposed on the roof of the trunk. I ran all wires from the trunk ceiling under the carpet to where the spare tire carpet folds up. This install was relatively easy, and sounds great! The longest process was running the power wire for the amp. from the battery to the trunk. The trim came out with ease, allowing me to slip in the huge 4 gauge wire alongside a stock wiring harness. The line out converter I bought came with a bass knob, and I put it in next to the traction control button in an empty switch slot. I tried my best to make it look stock, which came out much better than I expected. Here are some pictures of the process and final product!

Bass knob is clean af! Nice set up, why would you face the subs I. And not out though? You’ll get more air moving(louder) facing towards the trunk

 

[J19wheels]

How did you set up your bass knob like that? I’m trying to put mine in the same spot in my civic

 

[brotard]

How did you set up your bass knob like that? I’m trying to put mine in the same spot in my civic

I just saw your comment and decided to run out and try to wing it real quick. Whole process took ~30 minutes for me. Just take your time measuring and fitting before making any cuts/drills so that it turns out looking good!

First thing I did was take the bass knob circuit board out of it's case, there are 2 little screws holding it in. You probably noticed on the back of the trim piece there's a lot of plastic blocking you from putting the base knob in. What I did is took a box cutter and sliced through the 2 thinner pieces of plastic and pried away the plastic with some pliers

From there I put the plastic trim back into place and tried to fit the bass knob in. I realized it was too wide so I took a Dremel and shaved down the sides of the board (I used a paint pen to mark where I needed to shave). I marked the end of the knob with my paint pen aswell and pressed it against the trim piece, so that I knew where to start drilling (take your time centering it!).

Slowly work your way up with the drill bits, making sure they look center each time till you get to 5/16 in. Now you'll be able to fit the plastic piece of the knob through the hole! From there it was pretty simple. Put the trim piece back in, and line the bass knob up to it (I shaved it down to the point where it would fit in, but was still a little tight so it would stay still). Now put the plastic piece of the bass knob through to join them!

Mine is a little off center but oh well. That's why you should take your time

 

[J19wheels]

I just saw your comment and decided to run out and try to wing it real quick. Whole process took ~30 minutes for me. Just take your time measuring and fitting before making any cuts/drills so that it turns out looking good!

First thing I did was take the bass knob circuit board out of it's case, there are 2 little screws holding it in. You probably noticed on the back of the trim piece there's a lot of plastic blocking you from putting the base knob in. What I did is took a box cutter and sliced through the 2 thinner pieces of plastic and pried away the plastic with some pliers

From there I put the plastic trim back into place and tried to fit the bass knob in. I realized it was too wide so I took a Dremel and shaved down the sides of the board (I used a paint pen to mark where I needed to shave). I marked the end of the knob with my paint pen aswell and pressed it against the trim piece, so that I knew where to start drilling (take your time centering it!).

Slowly work your way up with the drill bits, making sure they look center each time till you get to 5/16 in. Now you'll be able to fit the plastic piece of the knob through the hole! From there it was pretty simple. Put the trim piece back in, and line the bass knob up to it (I shaved it down to the point where it would fit in, but was still a little tight so it would stay still). Now put the plastic piece of the bass knob through to join them!

Mine is a little off center but oh well. That's why you should take your time

I actually just winged it like a week ago and it doesn't look nearly as good as yours, my knob barely fit so I had to extend a rod through the plastic to connect both ends of the knob back together, and I made a knick in the front of the plate while using the dremel, but its better than nothing.