'16 civic EX-T front door speakers, and some other thoughts...

Ocelot

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There is a sail-panel tweeter up top and a speaker down below in the door.
Before I take my door panels off, what can I expect to find for a crossover and where? (or is the tweeter simply tapped off of the door speaker and capped to limit low frequencies?), I'm hoping there's actually no real crossover in the factory system.
I'm considering a small audio upgrade including the Alpine PSU300CVC for under the passenger seat (little amplified 8" subwoofer plus 4-channel amp for front and rears), but I'd like to put a second PWE-S8 subwoofer under my drivers seat and an AudioControl DQ-61 processor in between the HU and the amps.
I'm not willing to compromise trunk space and I don't want to use a removable trucnk subwoofer - so these little guys look like a really slick solution.
I'm still undecided on front and rears, but probably Polk DB6502's in front and in back. I'd be having a local shop do the wiring of the DSP, the amp and the powered subs, the PSU300CVC comes with a complete harness that t-taps into the speaker wires and back to use existing wires - sohold go pretty smoothly for the installer.
Any thoughts>
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kperalta

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There is a sail-panel tweeter up top and a speaker down below in the door.
Before I take my door panels off, what can I expect to find for a crossover and where? (or is the tweeter simply tapped off of the door speaker and capped to limit low frequencies?), I'm hoping there's actually no real crossover in the factory system.
I'm considering a small audio upgrade including the Alpine PSU300CVC for under the passenger seat (little amplified 8" subwoofer plus 4-channel amp for front and rears), but I'd like to put a second PWE-S8 subwoofer under my drivers seat and an AudioControl DQ-61 processor in between the HU and the amps.
I'm not willing to compromise trunk space and I don't want to use a removable trucnk subwoofer - so these little guys look like a really slick solution.
I'm still undecided on front and rears, but probably Polk DB6502's in front and in back. I'd be having a local shop do the wiring of the DSP, the amp and the powered subs, the PSU300CVC comes with a complete harness that t-taps into the speaker wires and back to use existing wires - sohold go pretty smoothly for the installer.
Any thoughts>
Passive cap on tweeters. Also that kit is a waste of money.
 
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Ocelot

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Thanks, I appreciate the clarification on the front speakers.
...and regarding the little subwoofer, do you have any other suggestions?
I can't confirm the value of the product as I haven't heard one installed (or in a display, for that matter), but it seems to be my only option for a non-intrusive improvement in bass.
I don't want to give up any trunk space to a "box" enclosure, and I'm not sure I want to commit to a fiberglass enclosure in one corner of the trunk.
 

kperalta

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Of course! I've heard that sub, and I've heard that amp. While the amp is good, it's not worth over 700 dollars for both the amp and that little sub. You're basically paying like 200 dollars for that bracket to hold it in the seat lol. It's hard to get bass without losing space without dropping a ton of money. Fiberglass work is expensive.

If you get this sub from Amazon UK (way cheaper over there) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focal-IBus...rds=Focal+sub&qid=1566923066&s=gateway&sr=8-4 you'll be getting way more bump for your buck. I'd recommend sticking with just one, and rather than a DQ-61 and a separate amp grab yourself a D4.800 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161D4800/AudioControl-D-4-800.html.

Those polks you're looking at can handle 100 RMS (so 125 @ 4 ohms will be fine.) and it can fit under your passenger seat. You'll just have to use the AX-DSP-HON2 t harness to make it easy for your installer to get some signal without destroying the wires.

My other suggestion is with comes to bass and you're looking at small sub options only put in what works for you. Don't worry about 2 subs cause under your seat I'm sure it will be more than adequate. If you are concerned about passengers, I'd highly recommend a fiberglass box because these little powered subs don't hit nearly as hard as other things without losing trunk space.
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