1.5T warm-up time

[absolude]

Joined the forum just to inquire about this topic. It's about -12C here and I just bought the car. If I let it idle I will never see the temp gauge. I let it idle 15 mins yesterday then drove it 20 mins lightly and the temp gauge was barely showing up. Then when I parked, the temp dropped while idling. The air temp also doesn't really blow that hot if it doesn't reach the proper operating temp. I feel uncomfortable driving when the temp gauge isn't even showing up because it's a turbo engine but it seems I have no choice. Tell me everyone else is having the same issue and it's actually totally normal.

Would you be able to tell if the fuel economy has gone way down? More so than what is normal for these temperatures?

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[marauderguy]

I don't seem to have much of a problem with warm up time. It all comes down to rpm. If you idle the car or cruise at 1500rpm, it does take forever to warm up. If you can get the rpm to over 2000, it seems to warm up very quickly. I rarely have my heater set to max, especially when idling or temps will drop with this puny gas miser of an engine.

I plugged in my car today at work for the first time (its free why not) and I managed to get 35mpg on my 10 mile commute at -19C. I highly recommend plugging in when you can as temps as well as mileage come up immediately.

 

[Mocha90210]

If it's really cold, and you use the Remote Start the fan speed on the heater is really high. Haven't found a way yet to limit this. Anyone know if it's possible to set the max fan speed for remote start?

I haven’t found a way to limit the fan speed during remote start. So basically, remote start is useless in the cold. Kind of defeats the purpose.

 

[WokeNotaSleep]

I see why this car doesn't work in cold weather now. It just now (this week and just today) got into the 40s (with rain) previously it was 50s and up (no rain) and turning the car on, it idles so high and sounds rough and loud and this is just turning on without warmup and pulling into garage. I cannot imagine driving this car daily in this range of temp and below, where it never warms up and temp needle drops, it is just not conducive to cold temps at all. This is a buzz kill of epic proportions. I could feel the wear the car goes though just pulling into the garage when it was parked in the driveway. I know you guys can hear how loud the engine is when the coolant can't get up to temp, it would make me want to take a grenade to it, that is how bothersome my drive would be.

 

[fjrman]

"I haven’t found a way to limit the fan speed during remote start. So basically, remote start is useless in the cold. Kind of defeats the purpose."

I believe you could cancel the automatic climate control function before powering off the ignition if you anticipate performing a remote start sometime later.

Press the "ON/OFF" button on the climate control system before ignition off and the climate control system will be deactivated until "AUTO" is selected again.

The car's interior won't be warm when you get in but it will warm quickly since the coolant will be warm/hot. If you have frost on the windshield you'll have to wait a bit but at least you'll have warm air available immediately.

 

[fjrman]

"I could feel the wear the car goes though just pulling into the garage when it was parked in the driveway."

I would believe the 0W-20 synthetic oil should be protective at cold start. Zero weight oil flows quite well at very low temps. Pour point is -54 degF.

 

[Civics4Ever]

Not staying at operating temps of 212 F means that you are wearing out the engine or lets just say, experience and unusually high amount of wear and tear just driving 15 miles to work and back. It is totally different from Honda stating that fuel dilution issue is normal for even 25-2800 mile oil change time span or clip for oil changes. Apples and oranges comparison because the temp gauge dipping means instant wear while the fuel dilution is totally controlled and normal.

Dude, you worry way too much.

 

[absolude]

"I could feel the wear the car goes though just pulling into the garage when it was parked in the driveway."

I would believe the 0W-20 synthetic oil should be protective at cold start. Zero weight oil flows quite well at very low temps. Pour point is -54 degF.

Dude, you worry way too much.

Thought the same thing but did some research and he has a point. Seems that the main wear reducing additive, the ZDDP, needs temperatures around 180 degrees in order to protect.
Oils are designed to protect at normal temps for ICE.

 

[absolude]

I don't seem to have much of a problem with warm up time. It all comes down to rpm. If you idle the car or cruise at 1500rpm, it does take forever to warm up. If you can get the rpm to over 2000, it seems to warm up very quickly. I rarely have my heater set to max, especially when idling or temps will drop with this puny gas miser of an engine.

I plugged in my car today at work for the first time (its free why not) and I managed to get 35mpg on my 10 mile commute at -19C. I highly recommend plugging in when you can as temps as well as mileage come up immediately.

Sounds encouraging. There may a problem affecting some cars only.
Wonder if your car was built at a later date?
Is your temperature gauge showing same as in warmer weather? How about going down while idling?

 

[Civics4Ever]

Thought the same thing but did some research and he has a point. Seems that the main wear reducing additive, the ZDDP, needs temperatures around 180 degrees in order to protect.
Oils are designed to protect at normal temps for ICE.

Well if that's true, there's not much you can do except a block heater and drive slow until temps warm up. You know, if you want to worry the next 10 years after you have over 100k on it, fine. Me, I'll expect no problems.

 

[absolude]

Well if that's true, there's not much you can do except a block heater and drive slow until temps warm up. You know, if you want to worry the next 10 years after you have over 100k on it, fine. Me, I'll expect no problems.

Hope is nothing to worry about but for some it looks like they need to take it easy all the time in cold weather since even a 20 minute drive couldn't warm up the engine.

 

[fjrman]

The turbo engines have two coolant sensors.

One at the radiator:

https://www.hondacarparts.com/auto-...l-exhaust-heater-fuel-cat/radiator-denso-scat

One at the typical location near the thermostat:

https://www.hondacarparts.com/auto-...riable-engine/engine-cat/water-pump-1-5l-scat

I assume the one near the thermostat drives the instrument panel display.

 

[marauderguy]

Sounds encouraging. There may a problem affecting some cars only.
Wonder if your car was built at a later date?
Is your temperature gauge showing same as in warmer weather? How about going down while idling?

The Cvt in these cars is keeping the rpms very low. I think that is half the problem. If your commute is on roads where you're not going above 1500, it will not get very warm. As for temps dropping at an idle, I don't think that is uncommon. This is a very small aluminum engine block and when your heater is on max it will suck the heat out of your engine. I have seen this before on several vehicles. I usually set the fan to half at most.
Remote start is basically useless if your intention is to warm the vehicle. It's best just to start it, clean the windows and go. A few minutes of driving is going to warm it much quicker.
This morning was -24C and the temp gauge was just starting to appear at the 4 minute mark. By approx the 7 or 8min mark the temp was just touching the bottom of the symbol between the cold and hot.

 

[dc2turbo]

A few people mention that driving on S brings the heat up easily. As mentioned above that in D you are cruising at low rpm

 

[marauderguy]

A few people mention that driving on S brings the heat up easily. As mentioned above that in D you are cruising at low rpm

Exactly.
This will make a difference.

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