1.5 turbo - answer to what engine oil grades are allowed!

[d1zguy]

Please stop making oil threads with cut/paste things from other sites. Please use real data, like an oil change analysis, so we can not have all the misinformation and BS floating around. Unless you have ACTUAL proof that a certain oil is better, please don't recommend an oil.

Here is my factory oil with 10,000 miles on it. Maintenance Minder said my oil had 15% oil left left.
I047301-OILANA75020139.pdf
Currently running AMSOIL SS 0w-20 with Honda Filter. I'm going to run this to 10,000 as well so I can have an apples to apples comparison, but after this I will be changing every 6k (possibly 8k depending on what next report looks like).

I thought factory fill had at least 400ppm of Moly. Guess not.

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[parshisa]

I thought factory fill had at least 400ppm of Moly. Guess not.

My report showed 567. And I doubt it was in the oil but in the lube used during engine building process. Honda break in oil is a myth

 

[Snoopyslr]

I thought factory fill had at least 400ppm of Moly. Guess not.

This was my 2nd oil change. Factory Honda oil, not the factory fill. My first oil change was free from the dealer, so no report from that one. My high silicon levels I was attributing to left over break in oil and/or left over silicon from gasket installation.

 

[d1zguy]

This was my 2nd oil change. Factory Honda oil, not the factory fill. My first oil change was free from the dealer, so no report from that one. My high silicon levels I was attributing to left over break in oil and/or left over silicon from gasket installation.

Gotcha, okay. That makes sense I changed out my factory fill and put in Quaker State 0w-20 that has added calcuim and moly at 478 ppm so it will continue to mimic the factory fill for a full 8000 miles

 

[fiend busa]

Well 400,000 miles with the Ea filter staying with 0w20 sounds pretty damn good, I will be doing my 1st oil change on my 17 HB Sport using Amsoil SS 0w20 and their filter(purchased a month ago). For a 200 hp motor I think it will be fine, if I was to go the extreme Ktuner route and push this engine to it's limit as many here are doing THEN a switch may be a good idea, for me with a base +6psi Hondata tune SS in the proper grade will work for longer than I will have the car.

What oil what you recommend if you are tuning the car to its limit?

 

[hawk02]

What oil what you recommend if you are tuning the car to its limit?

Amsoil SS, RedLine, Motul or Torco.

 

[parshisa]

Amsoil SS, RedLine, Motul or Torco.

How do you feel about tons of Calcium in SS that is supposedly increases the frequency of LSPI?

 

[sonicBOOMgray]

Gotcha, okay. That makes sense I changed out my factory fill and put in Quaker State 0w-20 that has added calcuim and moly at 478 ppm so it will continue to mimic the factory fill for a full 8000 miles

Doesn't the Honda oil do it as well or better? When I used Quaker State 10w-30 in my Sc300, the low NOACK really helped fight heat and I am tempted to use or try it here. Did you notice a bump in throttle response when you used the QS 0w-20? They even updated the spec sheet online for the NOACK. check it out..

http://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en/112d04cb-5040-405f-9bb2-bbd47846aa59.pdf

NOACK which fights heat is 5.0 which is the lowest I have ever seen and like I said, when I used it on a toyota engine, engine felt more peppy..what are the other important specs? SAPs and VI? Well the VI here is low indicating less VIIs and more shear resistant oil.. shearing from heat with heat being an enemy of oil and engines.

Wiki: The NOACK Volatility Test, otherwise known as ASTM D-5800, determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service.[1] The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions.

 

[hawk02]

How do you feel about tons of Calcium in SS that is supposedly increases the frequency of LSPI?

Well if my 4qts has tons in it I'm screwed...lol, Amsoil is already address lspi and formulating as we speak, I think I will be fine.....

 

[d1zguy]

Doesn't the Honda oil do it as well or better? When I used Quaker State 10w-30 in my Sc300, the low NOACK really helped fight heat and I am tempted to use or try it here. Did you notice a bump in throttle response when you used the QS 0w-20? They even updated the spec sheet online for the NOACK. check it out..

http://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en/112d04cb-5040-405f-9bb2-bbd47846aa59.pdf

NOACK which fights heat is 5.0 which is the lowest I have ever seen and like I said, when I used it on a toyota engine, engine felt more peppy..what are the other important specs? SAPs and VI? Well the VI here is low indicating less VIIs and more shear resistant oil.. shearing from heat with heat being an enemy of oil and engines.

Wiki: The NOACK Volatility Test, otherwise known as ASTM D-5800, determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service.[1] The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions.

Perhaps, My oil at 3074 had a hard gasoline smell to it. If anything it will do it better as the oil no longer has that much gas dilution. It is my understanding that as the car breaks in it will dilute less as the rings seat themselves. I did feel the engine become much peppier and the turbo likes it.

 

[un hombre]

Here is my final proof, same European manual, next page for oil suggestions for other parts of the world:

Nowhere does it say only use 0w20 oil!!!

 

[David Harper]

0w20 is specified in order to conform to the CAFE standards for fuel economy. This is so that Honda can claim 40 mpg. The competition between the automakers means ;whoever can claim the highest mpg....WINS!! IMO The 0w20 does absolutely nothing for engine protection. After a lot of research and consideration, I have switched to Mobil1 0w30 "advanced fuel economy", at least for the long hot summer were I live. Since putting it in, it seems to me that I notice an increased smoothness in the way the engine sounds and runs, but I'll be the first to admit that there's a good chance that this is the placebo effect. Not knocking those who run 0w20. But I wouldn't go 10,000 miles with it. I'm changing my own every 5K. It only costs about 35 bucks.

 

[bembol]

Sometimes fear plays into it.

I've never gave it a second thought on my previous vehicles but then again none recommended XW-20 or had a Turbo, I know I don't what having it has to do with me switching to my favorite, 0W-30 Castrol, the only grade from them made in Germany...now Belgium.

I got over it and ordered Amsoil 0W-30 Signature Series. I was going to get Castrol but I always want to try Amsoil.

 

[un hombre]

Sometimes fear plays into it.

I've never gave it a second thought on my previous vehicles but then again none recommended XW-20 or had a Turbo, I know I don't what having it has to do with me switching to my favorite, 0W-30 Castrol, the only grade from them made in Germany...now Belgium.

I got over it and ordered Amsoil 0W-30 Signature Series. I was going to get Castrol but I always want to try Amsoil.

Haha, I ordered 0w-30 Amsoil an hour ago as well. The car currently has 1k kilometers, I am not sure yet how many more I want to run on the factory oil before I switch, but I think I will give it time to around 5k kilometers.

 

[parshisa]

Haha, I ordered 0w-30 Amsoil an hour ago as well. The car currently has 1k kilometers, I am not sure yet how many more I want to run on the factory oil before I switch, but I think I will give it time to around 5k kilometers.

There's absolutely no point of waiting that long with factory fill (from additive package standpoint it has nothing special to it). Likely the factory fill is synthetic blend with very average additive package that doesn't holds up well with turbo heat. Anyway, really up to you, but if it was me 2months ago with the knowledge I have now I'd get it changed out.

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