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Anybody have any pictures of a bad condenser? Where does it usually crack? The dealer replaced the compressor on mine 2 years ago and now the system is low. I put 8 ounces in and couldn't find the leak, except one of the hoses has an oil stain on it.

Sorry about your loss. Hopefully insurance will cover it. Someone will revive your car. Give it a few months and it will re-appear on one of those no-name used car lots.

If a car is reliable and does what you want, you'll likely post less. I'm member at FitFreaks and haven't posted there in over a year because I have no problems with my Fit. If I were into doing mods, I'd probably post more.

I'm not doubting your shift knob is too damn hot, but aluminum temperature is difficult to measure accurately with an infrared thermometer. You need to set your emissivity lower like from 0.1 to 0.4 depending on the surface characteristics of the knob.

That CTR will show up for sale at no-name Illinois used car lot in a few months. Pretty common for salvage cars around here.

I know it's an old question, but CR gets its survey responses from 7 million current and several million former subscribers. We has a subscription 10 years ago and we still get annual surveys. We dropped the subscription because CR turned into a political publication and their product tests...

Another minor annoyance is the fuse box location. You have to be a contortionist to see it and determine the fuse number. I didn't have an issue, I was just tapping in for a hidden garage door opener.

No opinion on the Phoenix radio because I never heard of it until today. Thanks, I'll look into it. Looks like they have lots of models to choose from. If they are mostly plug-and-play and have rear camera integration, I'd consider it.

I've got the same question. Factory radios are popping up on the used market. Is it possible to upgrade the crappy factory LX 5" screen radio to the EX 7" screen radio? Does the sound improve any? What parts are needed besides the radio?

I had a Mobius Action cam, but it quit after 2 years. I contacted Mobius and they said it's not designed to be a used as a dash cam. Leaving it on for hours will eventually fry the recording circuit in the electronics. It's design to be used like a GoPro, for shorter videos. Anybody want a...

Yes expired. Crappy Chinese scan tool borked the VSA/ABS system. Dealer was kind enough to turn off the lights and diagnosed a bad caliper for $75. I fixed it myself and all is good now. Thanks for the link on audio upgrades.

When I did my rear brakes, I had trouble pushing one rear piston in. Got the brake job done regardless, but the EPB never worked right, and found the system is a nightmare to bleed. Took it to the dealer for the Christmas tree of dash lights and they said the rear calipers are bad. Replaced...

I'm liking our 2016 less and less and we may get rid of it this year. Never had a Honda with this many issues. Thought I could upgrade the crappy sound system but found out it is an extensive and expensive undertaking and kiss your rear camera features goodbye. Had the dashight Christmas tree...

Looks like they are different software bugs with similar symptoms. The 17-007 bulletin has a newer software version than the older 16-090 bulletin. Now that our weather is getting nicer I may go to our local dealership to find out what they will do.

Zero tolerance site. I was permanently banned and my IP address blocked to this day with no recourse. My crime? I didn't know new members couldn't post links. Someone was asking about a Honda valve adjustment procedure.

I'm wondering the same thing. AFAIK if it is out of warranty, you will pay unless you can convince Honda to do it for free or at a discount.

I have that too after working on the brakes using a scan tool. I have the following codes. U1026 U0123 U0151 C1100 U3000 C1030 (has gone away) See Honda service bulletin 17-007 What does the dealer charge for this update? I suspect our crooked Honda dealer would want $2000 or so.

I've had brake problems too and I didn't see a way to determine if it had the update using a scan tool. I imagine I would have to either: have Honda check the VIN for service records, take it to the dealer and let them check it, or find someone with the proper (and expensive) equipment to...

I did a little more research and found I might be able to recover it by reloading the ABS/VSA software using a J2534 interface box and Honda HDS software. Does anybody know of one that is reasonably priced?

In my case it was a screw had backed out of the right front mud flap. It was loose and rattling. Another thing to hate is the software glitch in the ABS/VSA computer that disables ABS, VAS, EPB, TPMS after you bleed the brakes. And don't get me started on the crappy EPB system.