Please let us know of your results. What's interesting is I had this issue with a Ktuner basemap but the issue resolved without adjusting throttle settings. I suspected it was battery related as that was my issue at the time
That question was asked over two years ago when I had no clue what I was doing, but I'm glad you're replying nonetheless. This thread got revived last week for a similar question. Its certainly required when tuning and pushing higher boost pressures are in the mix.
I'm with GTman on this, the .7 is a non issue considering its only under hard throttle and 87 octane. The actual code you're throwing is the real question.
This may be true. The question is, are you planning on applying the brake from a standstill or in motion. Regardless you'd need VSA full disabled. Assuming all 4 wheels lock up only in motion, you could alleviate that issue by starting stationary.
Additionally to answer your question about the front wheels locking, the electronic parking brake only applies to the rear brakes.
Did a decent amount of research on this while looking for aftermarket brakes. In order to retain a functional parking brake, you are limited to the OEM rear brakes.
I saw a video a while back about locking the real wheels to do a stationary burnout. Though I've not tested it, Apparently if you hold the parking brake switch in the up position, it will not release the brake despite being in gear and under throttle.
I have the SUMA switchbacks on my Si, same fuse blew about a week after install. I swapped it out immediately and been running them for quite some time since. I botched one of the wire splices for the turn signal switchback portion so I assumed that was the cause. Never fixed the wiring and...
That's interesting I'm only running the PRL race MAF housing with a Ktuner. I did some datalogging and didn't notice any changes in my AFR during the surges. After my issue went away I wrote it off as a battery issue considering all my logs looked normal
Have you had any battery issues with your vehicle? Mine was plagued with a weak battery. I believe the engine is actually attempting to hold itself at higher RPMs to charge the battery. Built into the programming, similarly to how you have a high idle to warm the engine on a cold start...
Ive been looking at both, I wanted to give Phearable a little more time after release and really see what people think and if there are any bad reviews before jumping on it.
Installed Acuity's stage 2 shift kit (decided not to install the short throw adapter to avoid the plastic clicking in even gears, and I much like the length of the shifts as is.)
Also put on a custom shift knob from WC Lathe Werks. Full titanium knob with laser engraving.
Also installed Suma...
Honda has their vehicles cut power to lights when the vehicle is off for more than 10 minutes regardless of what position the switch is in, in order to save you from a dead battery.
Theoretically you could trick the daylight sensor (Which controls the lights) into thinking it is always night...
Considering this is my second battery already, I'm currently weighing the options between upgrading it or making the dealer replace another one under warranty. Local temperatures have been in the 60's this week so the problem pretty much just went away on its own.
So after a week of driving around with this, and monitoring Ktuner, I have come to the conclusion that it is a weak battery, and the vehicle is raising the RPM of the engine to help the alternator maintain a constant voltage for the vehicle.
For example, I turned off the A/C, turned off all the...
I've been having similar problems, when the idle runs high for cold start it stays high until it has warmed. Does your rpm ramp up and down slowly between 1200-3000?