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made some great progress and took some pictures along the way. i'll be sure to post all that up after I get it squared away 100%. right now im just dealing with amp/lc2i placement on the board. place it too low and the angle for the power wire is not ideal. im using 4ga so its pretty tight...

dude, Matt, thank you so much for making an account to respond! i'll likely be taking this approach. looks very clean!! one question for you: to expose the metal seat back, are there just those little push clips attached to the back fabric that just pop in or how does that work? now I finally...

thanks for the reply. the amp definitely wont fit under my seats. as for the amp mounting, I was cautious of the weight of the amp that would just be held on by the 4 screws and might tear the carpet/fabric material over time if I left the seat in the upright position. essentially sandwiching...

About to install my amplifier and LC2i to the back of my rear seats. I'm wondering what's the best way to do this? is it just stamped metal? would self tappers work okay? thanks in advance for your tips and tricks!!

every little bit helps. it firms up the pedal which is always welcomed.

Front speakers. either near the grommet in the kick panels going into the door or right behind the stereo. I went behind the stereo and ran my 5 wires down the the dash under the glove box and down passenger side to the LCi2 (left, right and ACC [remote wire for pass-thru])

sound deadening material. check out videos on youtube on how/where to apply it. here's some decent budget stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B012B5EMGO/ https://www.amazon.com/LUMITECO-Automotive-Deadening-Application-Abatement/dp/B07W9BTN6G/

I was really hoping to tune lower but I'm limited by space and trying to keep port velocity low as well. overall pretty impressed with the Fi Xv3.\

2.5 cubes tuned to ~29hz with a port area of 37.5 inch^2 (15 inch^2 per cube)

just made a makeshift box out of some heavy-duty cardboard from a refrigerator box. surprisingly sturdy after all taped up. I made it 31 wide, 17 tall, and 15.5 deep. (FINAL BOX WILL BE 31 WIDE, 16.5 TALL. 16 DEEP) it slid in without any issues. However, getting it to sit all the way back in...

anyone? will be building box soon! sub is currently being made ( https://ficaraudio.com/ )

My last sub box in my 99 accord was so big we had to take off the carpet and plastic trim near the trunk latch to get it to slide in lol!! getting it in and out was a major mofo. trying to avoid that this time around haha

Hey all. I'm about to build my box for my 17 sedan. After measuring it out it looks like 30 wide, 17 tall and 12 deep will get me a nice box that fits nicely back in the trunk. Does anybody know if this size box will slide in without struggles? i thought of maybe rigging up some 2x4's to make...

i bought a roll of that asphalt-based stuff from home depot back in my highschool days and I never really had an issue with smells even in hot summer SoCal days. i even sprayed expanding foam into my trunk skin to make it a brick lmao. but that was an old shitty honda accord. I wouldnt do that...

exactly. another thing you can look at is the fuse that comes with the amp! (40amp fuse on the amp x 13.8 volts x 0.75 amplifier efficiency) = 414

hey guys where is the best pickup location for the LC2i?

you could do it yourself and save a bunch of money! watch a few youtube videos and you should be able to knock it out.

RMS is what you should be looking at and comparing when trying to match subwoofers and amplifers.

although that amp is definetly overkill for those subs, in my opinion i'd stay away from all things Skar. also dont fall for the marketing BS with peak power ratings. those woofers are cheap and will cook fast if you put alot of power to them. IMPORTANT -> per amazon: " Recommended power range...

https://www.bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/projectors.html i ended up with the katana kit and hikari ultra kit. dont remmber which one is in high and low beam