you'll likely be upset with how fast it cracks if you cut and have someone weld it... Tomei uses fairly low grade ti for their exhausts, thats why they are so cheap compared to other ti exhausts.
if its any of the materials they've stated you'd be wasting your money by putting a blanket on top of that. i mean you CAN add it and it would probably make a minor difference but i'd bet its within the margin of error.
unless i'm really hammering the car and maintaining big rpm mine falls completely out of boost on a shift and acts like i nearly stopped the turbo. it feels like a ssecond or so until it comes back up to 22-23psi at times.
I've driven on PS2, PSS, PS4S and AS3 down to single digit F temps. PSS and PS2 will try to kill you under 25, PS4S just become kind of crappy but you wont find yourself spinning trying to pull away from a redlight at 1100rpm. just be careful to not hit potholes and stuff when its under 25...
the larger maf housing will drop your apparent airflow and raise your ceiling again. I wonder if hondata has looked into adapting LS7 maf, it has a HUGE range with good resolution.
In for info... Just ordered some 18x9.5 +45's with the intent of 275/35. If it rubs i need to know as this is a car that will be getting used in the mountains.
If they made a non-billet version of it and offered it at a more reasonable price that didnt involve a few hours of CNC time... they'd have those PLM sales instead.
its a pointless flex in my opinion. I'm sure there are people who want to talk about how they have billet end tanks but I'd rather have an extra 300 bucks in my pocket and zero loss in functionality or reliability.
As for turbo BMW parts, If you're putting anything more expensive than a VRSF...
if you have issues with melting it wont be the outer lens. It'll be the plastic surround directly next to the bulb or the plastic that the base is held into.
Something along the lines of this is usually what happens wellll before you melt the outer lens.