I'm not sure about your local courses, but down here in Spokes/SASCA land, most of our local courses require a 3rd-gear shift. Just get good at shifting!
So yesterday, I finally got the chance to get some runs in on the Kumho v730s. I ran them at Beeville, but that was more of a scrub-in. On our local asphalt, HOLY SHIT they're good. Like, Yokohama good.
Someone on another corner of the internet (forget where) suggested running them at a low...
I had a fender-bender over a year ago, and I'm still finding things the insurance company's third-rate body shop did wrong (missing trim fasteners, etc.). One of the things they did was replace the hood. Today I went to change the transmission fluid, and I was looking for a place to stick a...
What tires/size? I'm running 34/30 on 255/40/17 RE71Rs, with the Karcepts bar at midway on asphalt, but I've had some difficulty with my car setup. Those pressure sound really high.
Right, I'm just now getting to the point where my original fluid is starting to look brown, after ~12k miles of daily driving and autocross. I'm sure the stock fluid is fine, but I feel like I could benefit from grippier pads maybe.
The tires will make a bigger difference than anything else you could conceivably do. Wheels will have to be purchased along with the tires, though, which makes the total cost substantial.
If you want a sway bar to be competitive, the Karcepts bar is the only real option. It's a loud, clanking...
RPF1s are a great choice. High quality, light, and a reasonable price. There's a reason that they're the most common wheel you'll see in grid at any given event.
Yeah 3/3 on the Karcepts bar took me some getting used to. I think it's overall faster, but it definitely required a different driving style; my first few runs had me doing tank-slappers all over the course.
With the Karcepts rear bar on the 3rd hole, 0 toe up front and factory spec in the back feels pretty neutral, maybe a little tail-happy even. Why don't you want to go stiffer?
I just installed my Karcepts bar yesterday. I thought the end-link length adjustment was a real pain in the ass - anyone have any tips or tricks for getting it right? What are the potential consequences of being off by 1/16"?
It "seems" low to me as well, but as long as I'm not rolling over onto the sidewalls, I figure I'm maximizing my available grip. I'd probably need to go a little higher on concrete or racetrack asphalt, but all of our venues in central TX are low-grip, dusty, sandy parking lots.