280K and still going fine.
It's so easy to replace the filters that the only downside is cost. And It really did help the oil clarity, which I assume means the fluid will lubricate better as it will not be recirculating those contaminants. I'm hoping to do it again at 400K.
Do you know where to find the 1.5 version?
I started with TDC and checked the cam lobes were facing up. Both engines have the same firing order so it would still be 1, 3, 4, 2 when rotating the crankshaft to check gap.
Step 1-2: Turn the harmonic balancer bolt till the cam shaft arrows point up AND the harmonic balancer marks line up with the mark on the engine block.
Step 3-4-5-6: Check gap with feeler gauge. If needed --> Loosen the nuts on cylinder 1 adjusting screws, feeler the gap and adjust screw till...
I didn't find it to be exactly correct as my cam marks/arrows were slightly off from what was pictured, but was close enough. You will turn the harmonic balancer till the cams are in a certain position and the balancer marks line up with a mark on the engine block. Then go from there.
I thought I should add a few things. First, this is not an easy task without the right tools and mechanical experience. Will want a through hole socket set and long screwdriver to hold the bolt while tightening the lock nuts, otherwise the bolt will turn when tightening the nut and change your...
I read a few threads about people adjusting valve clearances and figured 275K miles was enough to qualify if any car does. Lots of plug clips and hose clamps to remove to take off the valve cover. Pulled the front passenger wheel, and pulled down the underbody panel. Using a large breaker bar...
I don't know, but I think I just went around in a circle and slowly tighten each bolt and around again until torqued. It doesn't leak so I figure it's good enough as is.
I changed mine at 175k miles and they were about 50%. They do last a long time. I was replacing them as i had some brake shake. When I replaced them with Akebono and the rotors with Centric the brake shake came back after a few weeks. Ripped them off and paid for OEM and no more shake and still...
250K and no motor or CVT problems. Was with Ktuner for a short while. In my area 87 octane is standard, but I've been all over and used 85 octane plenty. There is no interstate merge lane short enough I won't be at 70mph. All to say, I'm not worried at all.
EDITED: Since both are turning off then it's probably something to do with the controller. https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2016-honda-civic--4dr_ex_leather_seat-ka_cvt/electrical_exhaust_heater_fuel/auto_air_conditioner_control.html?pnc=3
You are probably right that most 1st or 2nd owners of a Civic won't need to do much service at all, but that's rather obvious as average is about 15K miles/year. Maybe this is more of an elective service for low mileage cars, but it really cleaned up the fluid and is cheap as a DIY, $65 + fluid...
It's still heavy. I would look into a lighter trailer. Like these, saves 400 pounds:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/trailers-towing/1195-lb-capacity-48-58-in-x-96-14-in-heavy-duty-folding-trailer-62648.html...
It's so easy to go over weight when towing. Add up everything. You, passengers, stuff in the car, trailer, stuff in trailer. A Uhaul 4x8 weighs about 800 pounds empty. Then you will need to figure out how to achieve less than 200 pound tongue weight on the hitch. Seems crazy to me. Could do a...
So I did some random parts buying, mostly things with molded in bushings, and new brakes.
Part Number...............Part Name........................Price
51350-TBA-A11 Arm, R Front (Lower) $135.94
51360-TBA-A11 Arm, L Front (Lower) $135.94
43022-TBA-A03 Pad Set Rear $43.98...
The entertainment tablet screen. How can they work to integrate this then not take advantage of the size. No date. No compass direction. Usually the song name is cut off with just blank screen beyond it. It works, but feels like they just left it a bit short.