I'll snap a few pictures the next time I have the car on the lift. No signs of galling and/or corrosion. For someone who lives in New England and drives in the salt and snow, I'm pretty impressed. In contrast, I just put on the RV6 rear suspension (LCA) and there were two bolts that were seized...
If you want the reliability Honda commits to, don’t tune. There is no way Hondata or any tuner can do the same amount of testing that Honda does. I think what you mean to ask is, “what are the consequences of raising EGT?”.
My hunch on those first two is a short somewhere. Those connectors are great for holding water out. However, when submerged long and deep enough, water will get in and has the same resistance to get out. Try opening up the connectors.
CAN bus needs an impedance of 50-60 Ohms and will work with...
In my opinion, you're rolling the dice. It depends on how diligent and motivated the inspector is. For example, the inspector may notice there was a previous DTC for EVAP, and/or the Evaporative System is Not Ready. When doing the Tampering Check, the Not Ready may incline the inspector to...
The Purge Canister is still on the car…
One could use the “EVAP Canister Purge Nozzle” with some effort. As I mentioned, you could replace it with something that functions the same. It just opens a valve when there is boost.
Unfortunately, @Pauloriel25 lives in Massachusetts. If you disable...
Custom tune won't do anything to fix the problem. The tuner can disable the diagnostic but that does not fix the issue. In some states, some of the diagnostics are checked during the inspection.
Since you are in the USA, you need the EVAP Canister Purge Nozzle as shown below. The bottom (o-ring side) is always in a vacuum. The side nozzle is where the fuel vapor goes to be purged. The top nozzle goes to the charge pipes. When the engine starts to operate in boost, this valve opens the...
Oil has changed a lot since 1992. In fact, the latest API SP has even more tests. Oil is more complicated than just it’s viscosity. Hence, the numerous standards changes.
I use an impact and have had zero issues. I just put it on low and let it hit until it comes loose. What they tell you to do in the manual is to hit the wrench with a hammer. That’s exactly what an impact wrench does. They just have different sources of energy.
Check you wiring and make sure the pins are firmly in the connector. Also, make sure connector is completely seated. The PRL HVI puts strain on the wires because the hang.
It could also be a vacuum and/or boost leak. Check the seals on the intercooler. That is common place to leak.
After...
They use oil that's thinner than 0W20 on F1 engines that run at much higher horsepower. It's actually not clearances that's most important with thinner oil. Surface finish is more important.
HPD uses 0W20 in the K20C1 used in F3. Phillips 66 is Honda Oil.
Unless the piston hit the ground, you can usually just push the piston(s) back in.
Stick with the Honda rebuild kit. I've tried others but they are not as good.