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This. People seem to think fancy rotors do a lot of good, but that's usually not the case and 95% of people will never drive the car hard enough to need anything other than a decent set of blank rotors with performance pads and fluid. I found drilled/slotted actually wore through pads faster...

Still short on supply? Should I get on a wait list?

Sub'd for pics of the rear with car on the ground. The tip arrangement has me on the fence, so i'm not sold on it just yet :dunno: Appreciate the updates, Shankmeyster

Come to think of it, I think you're right. It's the same length as the Type R exhaust, so if the R exhaust includes the front pipe section I would think it's also included on the Sport system. The front pipe ends at an angle as well, so I think that threw me off.

The flex section is just before the flange to the front pipe, so it does not include the front pipe.

From my friend at SEMA. Same style tip as R, but 2 outlets instead of 3. Quality looks superb, i'm just not sold on the tip design as of yet.

The Maxxis have a stiff sidewall, and I don't get much roll with them even at 35psi. Heat soak IS a problem, as our Florida temps probably rival Texas temps. My first event I had a loss in power from temps during the 4th run. I use my tire sprayer more on the intercooler than the tires :D...

From last weekend. Good results! I'm still catching up to fully prepped Fiesta STs and national level drivers but i'm only a couple tenths off.

Edited. That's a typo if there ever was one :doh:

Tires are Maxxis VR-1, I believe in 245/50/18

Slalom's feel good but it would benefit from some stiffer shock valving. Rear bar really cuts down on roll so it doesn't get too out of shape. Open diff hasn't been a concern for me. By the time boost kicks in you're unwinding the steering wheel, so wheel spin is only an issue if you're...

Don't see why not. Factory wheels should have the same lug nut seat.

I don't have rotation issues, actually. I can hover the rear tire pressures between 34-36psi and it feels fine.

May be the same diameter, but that's only 1 quality of a bar that matters. Is it hollow or solid? What type of steel and is it heat treated? What's the leverage on the bar? These are all things that change the behavior of an anti-roll bar

:wave:I'm in HS! Run 2 events so far. My instagram has pictures and such on my progress. Mods: 18x8 Enkei, 245/40/18 Maxxis VR1, Progress Rear Sway, factory camber adjustment (sitting at about -.5* in the front, -1.5* out back) It's a decent car, could definitely use some better shocks under...

That is normal. It's a chemical byproduct of a rich fuel mixture, which is to be expected under hard acceleration or WOT.

This. If you're on stock tires, don't expect much to gain from springs or anything else from that matter. A good set of tires under the car will help DRASTICALLY. I'm not sure i'd recommend pads unless you want more feel or bite from the brakes, as you'll use your brakes sparingly and at much...

I wouldn't do springs, as you'll be thrown out of your street class (GS) and into a higher class if you change them. If coilovers are in your future, just wait and do it right the first go around ;)

My first event was yesterday. If I don't have it, i'll probably forget part of it or reverse some of it. I'm admittedly bad at stuff like that. :oops:

I did a Screen Capture of this and crop/resized the image down. Then, I used the JPEG as an option for my wallpaper on the head unit! That way, if i'm at an autocross event and need the procedure I can call it up whenever I want because it's stored inside the car :D When done, I just switch...