First time buying car wash stuff, a little lost

C-Dub · Mar 2, 2020

I just picked up my 2020 hatchback and want to see if I can keep it in good shape. I don't have a history of taking good care of my cars so this is a huge change for me but I want to do it right. After doing a couple days research and watching some Youtube videos, I picked up some stuff. Can you help me see if I'm doing alright, or if there's anything I need, or anything that overlaps in usefulness? Honestly I'm a little overwhelmed and could use some pointers! I'm basically just starting with a couple of 5 gallon buckets that I already had at home, I'm needing to pick up everything else.

Sprays / Chemicals / Products
1) Optimum No-Rinse Wash & Wax 32 Oz Kit (comes with 3 microfiber edgeless towels and large chenille wash mitt)
2) Optimum Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator 8 Oz
3) Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer 32 Oz
4) Bead Maker P&S Detailing Products C250P 1 Pint spray

Accessories that I have include:
3 x Microfiber edgeless 16 x 16 towels
1 x Large chenille wash mitt
1 x Optimum Big Red Sponge
1 x The Absorber X-Large Chamois
3 x 32 Oz empty spray bottles
1 x Soft bristle Wheel and Tire brush
1 x This thing which I think can blow compressed air to help me dry things

I really appreciate any feedback. To my knowledge I should be using the products in that order too, right? First ONR Wash & Wax, then Optimum Opti-Seal, then the Instant Detailer and finishing with the Bead Maker?

Thanks in advance.

C-Dub · Mar 3, 2020

I'm receiving the bulk of the stuff today, I'll give it a shot and report back.

I think the Opti-Seal and Bead Maker products are redundant but I'm not really sure.

Another question I have is that I've seen videos of people using ONR on the interior as well, including the seal on the entire interior (leather included). Not sure if this is advisable as I'll be using the Wash and Wax but I guess I'll give it a shot.

C-Dub · Mar 5, 2020

So far I've used the ONR Wash & Wax and have been pretty happy with it. Since it's still brand new I'm guessing it didn't need much in the first place, but I'm hoping to try some of the other products this weekend or next week. After some research I'm not really sure how the Bead Maker fits in, I might return that just so I stay with the Optimum product line.

While I was using the ONR Wash & Wax I went through about 4-5 16x16 microfiber cloths that I purchased from Costco, in case anyone else is or will be going through this process.

What I did was using the 32 Oz bottle I filled it up with the W&W at the suggested ratio, then spritzed it on to the panels (windows and all) from top to bottom. Then I used the big red sponge and dipping it into the bucket I doused the panel with more of the W&W, then dried it using a microfiber cloth. Next time I might try using a leaf blower that I own so I reduce the amount of touching I do. Not sure if that's advisable though.

I haven't tried the ONR W&W on the interior yet though I hear that it's safe to do.

Anyway this has become more like my personal blog lol.

Cheers

darrvao777 · Mar 14, 2020

It's really simple with ONR.

I would fill up your bucket with 4 gallons of water, apply 4 capfuls of ONR to the bucket. Mix everything in, then submerge one of your spray bottles into the solution.

1) Use your spray bottle as a pre-soak to 1 panel.
2) Dip your big red sponge in the bucket, do a light wring so that when you pull the sponge out it is still slightly dripping
3) Gently apply the ONR to the panel
4) Apply one spritz of Opti - Seal to the panel
5) dry with your favorite towel (I use a ridiculously small 10" x 10" 365 gsm microfiber towel for drying)
6) done, that panel is now cleaned, sealed, and dried
7) go around the car repeating the whole process

I don't use the instant detailer but you can use that to go after any residual water once you are done with the whole ONR process

I don't use Beadmaker either. You can use that as a drying aid but it is not as good as opti-seal for drying. The best use of beadmaker is to apply it one day after you have washed your car. Apply to a dry surface and then gently buff it off with a microfiber towel. It adds significant gloss and slickness to the paint that opti-seal doesn't add. That being said, it isn't as durable. The simple solution to replace Opti - seal, instant detailer, and bead maker is to simply purchase Hyper Seal from Opti Coat. It is like Opti-Seal but SiO2 infused so you get the great drying abilities of opti-seal, the ease of use of opti-seal, enhanced durability compared to opti-seal, and improved gloss comparable to beadmaker.

You can use ONR on the interior (which is what I do). After you are done with the wash process above, you can soak the microfiber towel that you were using for drying into the ONR solution and use that as a gentle wipedown that is safe for all interior surfaces. The wax that is present in ONRWW is so minimal it will not affect the interior. You can also use opti-seal on the interior. You CANNOT use hyper seal on the interior so that is something to keep in mind. Many people will stick with opti seal because it is the more versatile product as compared to hyper seal.

The costco towels are ok but be sure to cut the tags on them before using them on paint

I don't find using a leaf blower is particularly effective with the ONR method. Because the ONR encapsulates the dirt, I do think you need very gentle, lubricated agitation (e.g. the wiping from a microfiber towel) to remove the dirt from the surface of the paint. If you are using ONR, clean towels, and a drying aid like opti-seal, the marring you are imparting on the paint is really minimal.

As you can probably tell, I am a huge optimum fan as well so congrats on the wise selection in product line

darrvao777 · Mar 14, 2020

this is very helpful:

C-Dub · Mar 17, 2020

darrvao777 said:
It's really simple with ONR.

I would fill up your bucket with 4 gallons of water, apply 4 capfuls of ONR to the bucket. Mix everything in, then submerge one of your spray bottles into the solution.

1) Use your spray bottle as a pre-soak to 1 panel.
2) Dip your big red sponge in the bucket, do a light wring so that when you pull the sponge out it is still slightly dripping
3) Gently apply the ONR to the panel
4) Apply one spritz of Opti - Seal to the panel
5) dry with your favorite towel (I use a ridiculously small 10" x 10" 365 gsm microfiber towel for drying)
6) done, that panel is now cleaned, sealed, and dried
7) go around the car repeating the whole process

I don't use the instant detailer but you can use that to go after any residual water once you are done with the whole ONR process

I don't use Beadmaker either. You can use that as a drying aid but it is not as good as opti-seal for drying. The best use of beadmaker is to apply it one day after you have washed your car. Apply to a dry surface and then gently buff it off with a microfiber towel. It adds significant gloss and slickness to the paint that opti-seal doesn't add. That being said, it isn't as durable. The simple solution to replace Opti - seal, instant detailer, and bead maker is to simply purchase Hyper Seal from Opti Coat. It is like Opti-Seal but SiO2 infused so you get the great drying abilities of opti-seal, the ease of use of opti-seal, enhanced durability compared to opti-seal, and improved gloss comparable to beadmaker.

You can use ONR on the interior (which is what I do). After you are done with the wash process above, you can soak the microfiber towel that you were using for drying into the ONR solution and use that as a gentle wipedown that is safe for all interior surfaces. The wax that is present in ONRWW is so minimal it will not affect the interior. You can also use opti-seal on the interior. You CANNOT use hyper seal on the interior so that is something to keep in mind. Many people will stick with opti seal because it is the more versatile product as compared to hyper seal.

The costco towels are ok but be sure to cut the tags on them before using them on paint

I don't find using a leaf blower is particularly effective with the ONR method. Because the ONR encapsulates the dirt, I do think you need very gentle, lubricated agitation (e.g. the wiping from a microfiber towel) to remove the dirt from the surface of the paint. If you are using ONR, clean towels, and a drying aid like opti-seal, the marring you are imparting on the paint is really minimal.

As you can probably tell, I am a huge optimum fan as well so congrats on the wise selection in product line

You're the best, thanks!

jayy_swish · Mar 17, 2020

I try to touch the car (scrubbing with a mitt or sponge) as little as possible. I bought an electric pressure washer at Home Depot and foam canon plus the soaps, waxes, etc.. spent about $150. I wash weekly and only touch the car when drying. Minimal touching and drying in one direct motion (not drying in circles) allows for the fewest swirls in my opinion. My process:

1. Fill foam cannon with Mr. Pink soap 10mL and fill the rest with hot water
2. Pre-rinse with a 15° nozzle since it’s a strong but weak pressure washer (won’t rip the paint off, this model at least is what I mean lol)
3. Spray wheel cleaner on the wheels, let it turn purple wash it off
4. Attach the foam cannon and spray the entire vehicle
5. Attach a 40° nozzle and remove the soap
6. Spray the vehicle with Turtle Wax: Wax and Dry (eliminates the chance of water spots). Then (I use a Groits garage “EXTRA-LARGE PFM EDGELESS DRYING TOWEL”... it’s expensive but trust me it can dry multiple vehicles back to back with no problem) dry the car in one direction.
7. Use invisible glass cleaner and clean windows
8. Spray tire shine (I use Armor All Tire Protectant, the can one because it has a natural looking shine and no scrubbing needed. Spray and let it set, does not fling excess either...not a fan of a super wet shine, my opinion only)
9. I do this once a month, but then I spray TurtleWax Seal and Shine. Use a minimal amount, if you spray a lot you’ll end up having a lot of streaking. Use 2 microfiber towers. One for spraying on and spreading, one for drying.
10. Then I finish up with Turtlewax Spray Wax same process using 2 towels.
End result leaves a beautiful finish and GORGEOUS shine (see images for proof) and the spray waxes last about roughly over month, but the water beading and sheeting begins to deteriorate after 3 1/2-4 weeks. I also try not to wash in direct sunlight (like noon) I either wash early during a soft morning sun or later in the day near sunset for a soft evening sun. If you wash in direct sunlight you’ll end up with water spots, unless you have another helper then you might be able to get away with it. Ideal conditions are in a shaded spot and a cool car if working in direct sunlight. I’m no professional detailer, nor am I saying I am. I am only stating my wash process. I am open to constructive criticism as well, but so far this is what I do and it’s been working for me!

Honda Civic 10th gen First time buying car wash stuff, a little lost E7CC2D6A-4EF7-4FC8-950C-8CB023DBEE52

Honda Civic 10th gen First time buying car wash stuff, a little lost CBCFC9C8-B128-42AC-9F5A-DE673C892806

C-Dub · Mar 17, 2020

jayy_swish said:
I try to touch the car (scrubbing with a mitt or sponge) as little as possible. I bought an electric pressure washer at Home Depot and foam canon plus the soaps, waxes, etc.. spent about $150. I wash weekly and only touch the car when drying. Minimal touching and drying in one direct motion (not drying in circles) allows for the fewest swirls in my opinion. My process:

1. Fill foam cannon with Mr. Pink soap 10mL and fill the rest with hot water
2. Pre-rinse with a 15° nozzle since it’s a strong but weak pressure washer (won’t rip the paint off, this model at least is what I mean lol)
3. Spray wheel cleaner on the wheels, let it turn purple wash it off
4. Attach the foam cannon and spray the entire vehicle
5. Attach a 40° nozzle and remove the soap
6. Spray the vehicle with Turtle Wax: Wax and Dry (eliminates the chance of water spots). Then (I use a Groits garage “EXTRA-LARGE PFM EDGELESS DRYING TOWEL”... it’s expensive but trust me it can dry multiple vehicles back to back with no problem) dry the car in one direction.
7. Use invisible glass cleaner and clean windows
8. Spray tire shine (I use Armor All Tire Protectant, the can one because it has a natural looking shine and no scrubbing needed. Spray and let it set, does not fling excess either...not a fan of a super wet shine, my opinion only)
9. I do this once a month, but then I spray TurtleWax Seal and Shine. Use a minimal amount, if you spray a lot you’ll end up having a lot of streaking. Use 2 microfiber towers. One for spraying on and spreading, one for drying.
10. Then I finish up with Turtlewax Spray Wax same process using 2 towels.
End result leaves a beautiful finish and GORGEOUS shine (see images for proof) and the spray waxes last about roughly over month, but the water beading and sheeting begins to deteriorate after 3 1/2-4 weeks. I also try not to wash in direct sunlight (like noon) I either wash early during a soft morning sun or later in the day near sunset for a soft evening sun. If you wash in direct sunlight you’ll end up with water spots, unless you have another helper then you might be able to get away with it. Ideal conditions are in a shaded spot and a cool car if working in direct sunlight. I’m no professional detailer, nor am I saying I am. I am only stating my wash process. I am open to constructive criticism as well, but so far this is what I do and it’s been working for me!

oof that's beautiful, thanks for the tips

PNWCIVICSPORTHB · Apr 23, 2020

jayy_swish said:
I try to touch the car (scrubbing with a mitt or sponge) as little as possible. I bought an electric pressure washer at Home Depot and foam canon plus the soaps, waxes, etc.. spent about $150. I wash weekly and only touch the car when drying. Minimal touching and drying in one direct motion (not drying in circles) allows for the fewest swirls in my opinion. My process:

1. Fill foam cannon with Mr. Pink soap 10mL and fill the rest with hot water
2. Pre-rinse with a 15° nozzle since it’s a strong but weak pressure washer (won’t rip the paint off, this model at least is what I mean lol)
3. Spray wheel cleaner on the wheels, let it turn purple wash it off
4. Attach the foam cannon and spray the entire vehicle
5. Attach a 40° nozzle and remove the soap
6. Spray the vehicle with Turtle Wax: Wax and Dry (eliminates the chance of water spots). Then (I use a Groits garage “EXTRA-LARGE PFM EDGELESS DRYING TOWEL”... it’s expensive but trust me it can dry multiple vehicles back to back with no problem) dry the car in one direction.
7. Use invisible glass cleaner and clean windows
8. Spray tire shine (I use Armor All Tire Protectant, the can one because it has a natural looking shine and no scrubbing needed. Spray and let it set, does not fling excess either...not a fan of a super wet shine, my opinion only)
9. I do this once a month, but then I spray TurtleWax Seal and Shine. Use a minimal amount, if you spray a lot you’ll end up having a lot of streaking. Use 2 microfiber towers. One for spraying on and spreading, one for drying.
10. Then I finish up with Turtlewax Spray Wax same process using 2 towels.
End result leaves a beautiful finish and GORGEOUS shine (see images for proof) and the spray waxes last about roughly over month, but the water beading and sheeting begins to deteriorate after 3 1/2-4 weeks. I also try not to wash in direct sunlight (like noon) I either wash early during a soft morning sun or later in the day near sunset for a soft evening sun. If you wash in direct sunlight you’ll end up with water spots, unless you have another helper then you might be able to get away with it. Ideal conditions are in a shaded spot and a cool car if working in direct sunlight. I’m no professional detailer, nor am I saying I am. I am only stating my wash process. I am open to constructive criticism as well, but so far this is what I do and it’s been working for me!

this is pretty much what i do to my cars. i do blow the excess water off the car with a electric blower though before i dry. its gets the water out the little crevices.

PdxJose · May 9, 2020

jayy_swish said:
I try to touch the car (scrubbing with a mitt or sponge) as little as possible. I bought an electric pressure washer at Home Depot and foam canon plus the soaps, waxes, etc.. spent about $150. I wash weekly and only touch the car when drying. Minimal touching and drying in one direct motion (not drying in circles) allows for the fewest swirls in my opinion. My process:

1. Fill foam cannon with Mr. Pink soap 10mL and fill the rest with hot water
2. Pre-rinse with a 15° nozzle since it’s a strong but weak pressure washer (won’t rip the paint off, this model at least is what I mean lol)
3. Spray wheel cleaner on the wheels, let it turn purple wash it off
4. Attach the foam cannon and spray the entire vehicle
5. Attach a 40° nozzle and remove the soap
6. Spray the vehicle with Turtle Wax: Wax and Dry (eliminates the chance of water spots). Then (I use a Groits garage “EXTRA-LARGE PFM EDGELESS DRYING TOWEL”... it’s expensive but trust me it can dry multiple vehicles back to back with no problem) dry the car in one direction.
7. Use invisible glass cleaner and clean windows
8. Spray tire shine (I use Armor All Tire Protectant, the can one because it has a natural looking shine and no scrubbing needed. Spray and let it set, does not fling excess either...not a fan of a super wet shine, my opinion only)
9. I do this once a month, but then I spray TurtleWax Seal and Shine. Use a minimal amount, if you spray a lot you’ll end up having a lot of streaking. Use 2 microfiber towers. One for spraying on and spreading, one for drying.
10. Then I finish up with Turtlewax Spray Wax same process using 2 towels.
End result leaves a beautiful finish and GORGEOUS shine (see images for proof) and the spray waxes last about roughly over month, but the water beading and sheeting begins to deteriorate after 3 1/2-4 weeks. I also try not to wash in direct sunlight (like noon) I either wash early during a soft morning sun or later in the day near sunset for a soft evening sun. If you wash in direct sunlight you’ll end up with water spots, unless you have another helper then you might be able to get away with it. Ideal conditions are in a shaded spot and a cool car if working in direct sunlight. I’m no professional detailer, nor am I saying I am. I am only stating my wash process. I am open to constructive criticism as well, but so far this is what I do and it’s been working for me!

Really clean looking ride man. When you mentioned Turtlewax Spray Wax, are you talking about the Turtlewax Ice Spray Wax? Thanks for the detailed wash instructions!

jayy_swish · May 9, 2020

PdxJose said:
Really clean looking ride man. When you mentioned Turtlewax Spray Wax, are you talking about the Turtlewax Ice Spray Wax? Thanks for the detailed wash instructions!

Thanks man..
Yes sir, The blue bottle!

Thatguyraw · May 11, 2020

Check out Ethos Car Care line up I been using them on my customers car and the results is ?

Honda Civic 10th gen First time buying car wash stuff, a little lost 13C8A644-5FD6-4CF8-BB5E-6ABA26AA429C

Honda Civic 10th gen First time buying car wash stuff, a little lost 348302C9-F4C4-45DA-806C-E5FB0BD98433

First time buying car wash stuff, a little lost

C-Dub

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