Thuseefc - Mugen Si

Next update: Rear euro lhd tail lights with integrated fog light and oem signal stalk. Right under the front fog it says REAR and works as a pulse signal. So this is a little more technical but I'll provide as much detail as possible.

Details to come. Bare with me while I work on the wording, doing this when I have a few minutes. I'll add as much details as possible.





TAIL LIGHT CONNECTOR SETUP:










RELAY SETUP:












SWITCH AND WIRING TO TRUNK:








View attachment 198803







TEMPORARY INDICATOR WHEN FOG LIGHT IS ON:











View attachment 198814





FINAL:

Next update: Tein EDFC (Electronic Force Damping Controller) mounting and routing.

Those of you that dont know this system allows you to control the damping of your coil overs on the fly. If the road is a little rough you can soften the suspension so your not bouncing all over the place. Then stiffen it when its flat surface again.

I have successfully custom mounted the controller in the left side dash carbon trim all wired into the car.

Ran 2 of the wires along both sides of the car to each rear wheel well and will be running the two fronts close to when I install the coils.

I dont see any openings in the side wheel wells in the rear to run the wire out to the back coils so most likely going to need to drill a hole and run it through. Ofcourse I'll be using rubber grommets if that's the case.

For now heres some of the work that went into putting the controller in.

that spot for the edfc is perfect...

rr1443 said:

that spot for the edfc is perfect...

Click to expand...

Thanks buddy! I couldnt figure out where else to put it since I wanted it within reach. I have my ktuner v2 in the spot in front of shifter so didnt want to move that either.

Checked behind that trim piece and it was empty so was perfect. Cutting it was another story lol making sure its straight and not too big.

Thusee said:

Next up: Shifter Assembly

The Si shifter was great for the average person and since the type r shifter assembly was cheap like 40 bucks at cost I thought I would order it for the slightly shorter throw and also threw in the Acuity bits.

Definitely an improvement over the stock shifter and then I ended up getting the Hybrid Racing Short Shifter. One reason I went the hybrid route was not because of the cost. Myself and @CanadiaegeanBlue are doing a lot of experimenting back and forth with different products and since he has the Acuity we agreed I'll get the Hybrid. This way we can do a proper comparison and see how they both feel. Myself and Humza always swap cars and see how both ours compare in handling, ride, comfort, sound etc.

In my opinion the hybrid shifter is great for the daily driver, shifts are great, cost is about 100$ less than Acuity. It's not always about how much adjustability there is because once someone sets it up it is very rare anyone Is going to readjust it.

The hybrid shifter has a little side side to side play when in gears but not excessive. Another thing I like about the Hybrid shifter is that the base is a solid piece and no base bushings is needed so less parts.

Click to expand...

So what are your feelings about the Hybrid shifter vs the Type R assembly with Acuity bits?

Did you install the Tein coils yet or just the EDFC controller? Would like a review of them if you do have them!

Told myself I didn't want to lower this car, but I would only consider Tein coilovers if they ever came out since I've had great experiences with their systems on previous vehicles. They're still pretty new for this Si platform, but for under $1200 USD and they come with the ADS canceller, so it's a great deal!

86salmon said:

So what are your feelings about the Hybrid shifter vs the Type R assembly with Acuity bits?

Click to expand...

I had all the acuity bits except the rocker arm, not sure how much of a difference that makes. But in comparison the hybrid is much better. If your going all out type r and acuity then pricing is only off by a little bit so might aswell pay the difference and get hybrid.

arpypat said:

Did you install the Tein coils yet or just the EDFC controller? Would like a review of them if you do have them!

Told myself I didn't want to lower this car, but I would only consider Tein coilovers if they ever came out since I've had great experiences with their systems on previous vehicles. They're still pretty new for this Si platform, but for under $1200 USD and they come with the ADS canceller, so it's a great deal!

Click to expand...

Controller is installed and powered up. Coils are not in yet.

The only downside I have seen so far is the damping adjuster location. If you dont have EDFC then adjusting the rear might be difficult because its enclosed in the top.

There is a small hole with rubber about 1.5 inches in diameter so not sure how tricky it will be.

Also another thing I found out is there are no holes going into the chassis so hole will need to be drilled to run the edfc wiring.

I'll be using the grommets I attached here when I do my holes. So everything will look oem.

And yes for the price and ads cancellor is a major plus. Also has pillow ball top mounts

Thusee said:

I had all the acuity bits except the rocker arm, not sure how much of a difference that makes. But in comparison the hybrid is much better. If your going all out type r and acuity then pricing is only off by a little bit so might aswell pay the difference and get hybrid.

Click to expand...

Thanks!
Already did Type R and Acuity (which I like a lot) before the Hybrid came out. Just curious since most of the comparisons are made between the full assemblies

86salmon said:

Thanks!
Already did Type R and Acuity (which I like a lot) before the Hybrid came out. Just curious since most of the comparisons are made between the full assemblies

Click to expand...

I have no regret going to hybrid. Was a big difference for me and also you can adjust the shifter height which you cant do with the type r.

Overall was worth it. You could probably sell the type r setup and recoup some of the cost if you go hybrid way. The shifter will work on all 10th gens.

Thusee said:

Controller is installed and powered up. Coils are not in yet.

The only downside I have seen so far is the damping adjuster location. If you dont have EDFC then adjusting the rear might be difficult because its enclosed in the top.

There is a small hole with rubber about 1.5 inches in diameter so not sure how tricky it will be.

Also another thing I found out is there are no holes going into the chassis so hole will need to be drilled to run the edfc wiring.

I'll be using the grommets I attached here when I do my holes. So everything will look oem.

And yes for the price and ads cancellor is a major plus. Also has pillow ball top mounts

Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks for the update! And ya, the added pillow ball top mounts is a plus. I had to buy new OEM top hats to use Tein coils on my 3rd gen TL, because that kit didn't come with any top mounts. Upside was it was super comfy!

Great build in progress. I enjoy reading this thread! Thank-you!

arpypat said:

Awesome, thanks for the update! And ya, the added pillow ball top mounts is a plus. I had to buy new OEM top hats to use Tein coils on my 3rd gen TL, because that kit didn't come with any top mounts. Upside was it was super comfy!

Click to expand...

Yea back in the day the pillow ball top mounts was an additional 3 to 500$ depending on the car it's going in.

Definitely a nice setup.

ManitobaSI said:

Great build in progress. I enjoy reading this thread! Thank-you!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the support! Will be posting more content soon! Lots of work being done right now haha!

Next update: Rear chassis bracing.

Picked up ultra racing rear torsion bar and rear trunk brace from www.unity-performance.com aka @CanadiaegeanBlue

Seeing as the coil overs won't be going on for another few weeks I decided to tighten up the rear end a bit.

Ultra racing has always been one of my number one brands in terms of chassis bracing with all my previous builds so it only felt fitting to continue the tradition and also support a local business.

I'll post the steps the best I could if you have any further questions feel free to ask.



First installed rear torsion bar




The two rubber hangers by the springs need to be removed from the top hooks. You can do this without worrying if exhaust will fall.

Once the rubber is removed the bar can be slid in.




To mount it remove the 2 (17mm) bolts on each end of the subframe completely. The frame will not drop.

Line up the bar and reinstall the removed bolts. Once done put the rubber back into the exhaust hangers.










Rear Trunk Brace Install

Next I installed the rear trunk brace, anyone that knows me knows I HATE if the install is not clean, so here we run into a small hurdle. All 4 mounting points are in slightly tricky locations.

The two in the trunk near the speakers are covered with the trunk liner. The two behind the seat is covered by the spare wheel cover.

I have seen a few installs where the fender liner is left bent and rear trunk carpet flap not flat.

Decided to trim both fender lines so the bar sits flush without it being covered and no wrinkles.

Next had to figure out what to do with the floor mounts. Decided to drill down through the plastic in the trunk carpet and lined it up with the holes in the floor. Secured everything and I'm satisfied. If I get time I may run some black paint along the inner frame in the trunk above the bar to black it all out.

Before: see all the bent covers







Finals after install fully.