I installed the ACT (Advanced Clutch Technology) clutch kit myself...

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JT Si

JT Si

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Is there any slack in the clutch pedal after you adjusted it?
If by slack you mean free play at the top of the pedal range, I adjusted it per the service manual and am within the OEM spec for free play.

2 inches off the floor is high for you? Also are you turning it counterclockwise since that lowers engagement. Where a lot of people turn in clockwise till they feel tension and stop to remove any slack.
I don't know exactly how high the engagement is, I'm guessing based on feel. Essentially it feels high and it is higher than the brake hold release threshold and the oem clutch engagement point. It's not a problem most of the time but on a very steep hill, the brake release goes before the clutch starts to engage making it a little more hectic than it used to be. The only way to recalibrate this AFAIK is with the honda tech tool to perform the sequence and I'm not going to pay a dealer to do that.

Counterclockwise raises the pedal position and raises the engagement point. Clockwise lowers the pedal and the engagement point. I'm in 2 full turns clockwise, bringing the pedal closer to the floor.
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LilToTo17

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If by slack you mean free play at the top of the pedal range, I adjusted it per the service manual and am within the OEM spec for free play.


I don't know exactly how high the engagement is, I'm guessing based on feel. Essentially it feels high and it is higher than the brake hold release threshold and the oem clutch engagement point. It's not a problem most of the time but on a very steep hill, the brake release goes before the clutch starts to engage making it a little more hectic than it used to be. The only way to recalibrate this AFAIK is with the honda tech tool to perform the sequence and I'm not going to pay a dealer to do that.

Counterclockwise raises the pedal position and raises the engagement point. Clockwise lowers the pedal and the engagement point. I'm in 2 full turns clockwise, bringing the pedal closer to the floor.
Interestinf because I’ve done engagements and myself including others say that clockwise raises engagement and counter lowers it. Freeplay is basically the pedal height. Most people turn the rod clockwise till they feel tension and stop.
 
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Interestinf because I’ve done engagements and myself including others say that clockwise raises engagement and counter lowers it. Freeplay is basically the pedal height. Most people turn the rod clockwise till they feel tension and stop.
That's fine and all, but you can clearly see in my photo the thread direction is tightening (brings the pedal closer to the floor) clockwise. If you can explain how bringing the pedal closer to the floor raises the point of engagement, I'm all ears.

Edit: Maybe we're splitting hairs. The absolute clutch engagement point goes down but the relative engagement point in pedal movement comes up. I'm basing the engagement point as a reference to how high off the floor the pedal is when it begins to engage, not where in the pedal range the engagement point begins.
 

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That's fine and all, but you can clearly see in my photo the thread direction is tightening (brings the pedal closer to the floor) clockwise. If you can explain how bringing the pedal closer to the floor raises the point of engagement, I'm all ears.

Edit: Maybe we're splitting hairs. The absolute clutch engagement point goes down but the relative engagement point in pedal movement comes up. I'm basing the engagement point as a reference to how high off the floor the pedal is when it begins to engage, not where in the pedal range the engagement point begins.
A lot of people with the type r retro clutch have their clutch pedal the same height as the brake.
 
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A lot of people with the type r retro clutch have their clutch pedal the same height as the brake.
This isn't a Type R retrofit and the ACT Bellevue spring is a drastically different height than the OEM spring.
 


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Here's the reasons why I did it myself:

I saved a bundle.
I learned much more about my car.
I'm closer to my car than ever before. I honestly was considering getting rid of it, but through doing the job I've become more attached, proud of my work, and it fixed several issues I had with the car.
I made mistakes, and I know every single one of them. If I paid someone to do it I'd likely never know what mistakes they made or corners were cut.
I bought tools that I get to keep forever.
I believe you need a lot of clearance under the car. I am glad that you pulled it off with couple of jack stands. When I checked ACT clutch video it's a super long process. They removed hell lot of things which are unnecessary I guess
 
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I believe you need a lot of clearance under the car. I am glad that you pulled it off with couple of jack stands. When I checked ACT clutch video it's a super long process. They removed hell lot of things which are unnecessary I guess
Actually the service manual has you remove more than ACT did in their video. I followed the service manual instructions for the entire job.

I drove the front up onto jack-assist ramps, jacked the rear up and placed it on larger ramps, then jacked the front and placed the front on jackstands to get as much clearance under the car as I could.

There was just enough clearance to roll the subframe out on the jack. The transmission I had to remove from the jack, place on a piece of cardboard, and slide it out through the wheel well around the hub/knuckle assembly.

Honda Civic 10th gen I installed the ACT (Advanced Clutch Technology) clutch kit myself... IMG_20200101_134102 - Copy
 
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This isn't a Type R retrofit and the ACT Bellevue spring is a drastically different height than the OEM spring.
Actually the service manual has you remove more than ACT did in their video. I followed the service manual instructions for the entire job.

I drove the front up onto jack-assist ramps, jacked the rear up and placed it on larger ramps, then jacked the front and placed the front on jackstands to get as much clearance under the car as I could.

There was just enough clearance to roll the subframe out on the jack. The transmission I had to remove from the jack, place on a piece of cardboard, and slide it out through the wheel well around the hub/knuckle assembly.

IMG_20200101_134102 - Copy.jpg
the act vid did a lot of steps that weren’t needed or in the wrong order. For one they pulled the axles out before even dropping the actual subframe which is wrong as boots can damage easily this way.
 

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Good evening, gentlemen.

I ordered an ACT clutch kit with the organic disc back in December when they were first launched. As far as I know, I am the third person on these forums to install one.

I did the install myself in my garage with jack stands and a single daytona yellow floor jack. It took me around 5 weekends working only on the weekend. Sometimes I got to a point where I needed to order a part, or I would get stuck and frustrated and give up until the following weekend.

This is not intended to be a walkthrough - you can find that in the ACT YouTube video for the civicX clutch install. This is a collection of the things I had to buy I didn't have (tools and parts) and all the mistakes and quirks I encountered along the way.

I ended up buying several tools and parts:

Spoiler
I was wondering why you bought a spoiler to replace the clutch..
 
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Updated the OP with some WOT lockout testing:

I hit 300 miles today, so I gave it the beans a few times in TSP map 1 sport (factory PSI). No hard launches.

I experienced a lockout from 3->4 around 6,000 RPM, but I realized I was being lazy with my clutch foot - I didn't quickly and fully depress the pedal, I didn't make sure it was fully depressed before I shifted, and I was overlapping releasing the pedal with putting it into gear.

I followed that with a series of shifts quickly and deliberately pressing down on the clutch fully, shifting, then releasing after the shifter was in gear. I had no more lockouts or issues. I tested shifting 1->2 at redline, 2->3 at redline, and 3->4 over 6000 RPM.

I'll be waiting a couple hundred more miles before switching out to TSP map 2 or 3 and bumping up the boost.
 


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Actually the service manual has you remove more than ACT did in their video. I followed the service manual instructions for the entire job.

Sounds like the service manual was invaluable during this job!
What did the service manual cost? And where did you purchase it?
Thanks,
 
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Actually the service manual has you remove more than ACT did in their video. I followed the service manual instructions for the entire job.

Sounds like the service manual was invaluable during this job!
What did the service manual cost? And where did you purchase it?
Thanks,
https://www.civicx.com/threads/2012...the-service-manual-youve-always-wanted.15340/

I ended up printing out probably 50+ pages of it to have out in the garage. The transmission removal/reinstallation has several steps that say "Remove this thing", and you have to go find the removal/reinstallation page for that specific item. Unfortunately, the verbiage is not consistent so there was some hunting to find the things I needed.
 

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I'll admit you've got me stumped. Is ACT some brand of spoiler?
I'm pretty sure that was a play on words, i.e. "spoiler" as in the hidden text in your original post, versus the aerodynamic device on a car.
 

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Good job!!
Keep us posted on your experience with the ACT clutch.

That’s the next upgrade I’m planning after getting BBK.

It’s good to have an alternative to the type r retro.
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