Perrin vs Tanabe vs Sirimoto Strut Bar

I was looking into strut bars and noticed something interesting. Forgive me for not knowing all that much about car parts/brands, I have just gotten into them. I'm not sure if the discrepancy comes from Perrin perhaps being a more reputable brand, but the Perrin strut bars are significantly more expensive than the Tanabe or Sirimoto bars. Can anyone tell me the differences in these strut bars and what makes one of higher quality than others? Thanks!

Links to the bars

Perrin - https://www.perrin.com/shop/suspension/honda-strut-brace

Tanabe - https://www.maperformance.com/produ...trut-tower-bar-2016-honda-civic-sedan-ttb197f

Sirimoto - https://www.sirimoto.com/p/ymm/2018/honda/civic/sirimoto-phase-2-strut-bar.html?ctid=3780

Im considering the DC Sports strut bar because it is a one piece design

Like stated above. The DC bar or the UR bar are the best as they are a one piece design. Those are the only two id recommend

Ultra Racing gets my vote! Had several bars by them them on my last car, and now on the Si as well. More incoming, just have to get the car up on a lift to install.

Shameless plug, but I have Ultra Racing Dealer status via my store, https://unity-performance.com/products/ultra-racing-chassis-braces-CivicX

CanadiaegeanBlue said:

Ultra Racing gets my vote! Had several bars by them them on my last car, and now on the Si as well. More incoming, just have to get the car up on a lift to install.

Shameless plug, but I have Ultra Racing Dealer status via my store, unity-performance.com

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Why does it need a lift? Can you not just jack up one side to get it on?

SDAlexander8 said:

Why does it need a lift? Can you not just jack up one side to get it on?

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Did my strut bar on the ground, it took a minute to do so Best to do on level ground and not move the car one bit so when you take the nuts off, the struts won't shift and mess up the alignment.

The only time a lift is required is if the holes don't line up while on the ground. I love how the UR bar also takes into account that there's a guide pin that some enthusiasts may remove (like I have) or shift it for more negative camber. Additionally, the bar hasn't contacted the hood on any points, and I still have access to remove my Mishimoto Catch Can without loosening/removing the bar. Once a year I have to loosen the driver's side to allow opening the brake fluid reservoir lid when replacing fluid, which isn't a big hassle all things considered.

In terms of performance, I immediately felt the turn-in response get tighter and better feedback from the steering wheel of any steering inputs. Can't comment on any ride comfort changes with the bar.

I've had both the Ultra Racing and DC bar. Both perform equally. I only switched to the DC bar because I preferred gunmetal to white and the DC bar allows easier access to the brake fluid.





Both tighten the front end and it's really noticeable on twitchy left right lane changes (more stable) or accident avoidance type maneuvers. They also seem to improve steering feel/precision.

The other bars mentioned are hinged and while they're better than nothing, the three piece design sort of defeats the purpose a bit.

Ultra Racing ftw. No stinkin' joints for me.

I understand the science that your strut bar is only as strong as it's weakest link. Making a lot of people choose solid pieces vs multi linked pieces.

What makes me question this is big name and very well respected Japanese Tuning companies (Cusco, Spoon, J's) who excel at tuning honda's and various popular tuning car, all have multi linked strut bars. These companies have been around since the 80's (Cusco late 70's? i think) so are these proven companies missing something or are WE missing something lol Just food for thought

(Spoon's pic is for an older car model... the rest are for the FK8)

In Hot Version Vol.158 the above companies werent running the touge battle or the Tsukuba circuit with full roll cages so that at least that variable is constant. What a shame we are all being coaxed into purchasing lesser products from reputable companies :/

555sexydrive said:

I'll just say every time I was on circuit at a J's held time attack event whether it be Suzuka, Central Circuit or Suzuka Southern their (J's Racing) cars had full cages from Okuyama in them, only Umehara-san's personal Fit or CR-Z was uncaged and basically stock interior wise except for some reclinable Recaros. Other events I participated in, hosted by Feel's (Honda Twin Cam) their cars were also caged. Only once was I on circuit the same time with Spoon, they were out getting a baseline on their GK5 Fit RS and it was basically stock apart from their front brakes and heavy wheels, actually I take that back a few times when participating in Honda Style events Spoon was out there, mostly as a vendor/showing off their parts and not participating.

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whaaaa?! damn super jealous! haha thanks for info! Yeah, This Q always boggled my mind just sitting there like "why would these companies put out something that isnt optimal". I guess a good way to look at it is, it's just an expensive towel rack lol

Awesome IG page btw!

I'm still waiting in 27Won to finish up their bar. Barett has blogged about it a few times already.

https://www.27won.com/blog/civicx-front-strut-tower-brace-redefine-design-pt-1

https://www.27won.com/blog/civicx-front-strut-tower-brace-rigid-strength-design-pt-2

Noob question here: Are their any cons to installing a strut bar?

Vegas Viking said:

Noob question here: Are their any cons to installing a strut bar?

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No, although it might obstruct a few bits of the engine bay, making service more difficult.

CanadiaegeanBlue said:

Did my strut bar on the ground, it took a minute to do so Best to do on level ground and not move the car one bit so when you take the nuts off, the struts won't shift and mess up the alignment.

The only time a lift is required is if the holes don't line up while on the ground. I love how the UR bar also takes into account that there's a guide pin that some enthusiasts may remove (like I have) or shift it for more negative camber. Additionally, the bar hasn't contacted the hood on any points, and I still have access to remove my Mishimoto Catch Can without loosening/removing the bar. Once a year I have to loosen the driver's side to allow opening the brake fluid reservoir lid when replacing fluid, which isn't a big hassle all things considered.

In terms of performance, I immediately felt the turn-in response get tighter and better feedback from the steering wheel of any steering inputs. Can't comment on any ride comfort changes with the bar.

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I'm waiting on my side marker lights when they're in this will be picked up as well!