Next mod help/opinion

Aegean303

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hey guys,

im just looking for some opinions on what to get next for the car and if its even worth it.
I own a 2016 touring cvt which i daily
I already added a mishimoto sri, takeda exhaust, rv6 catted down pipe, and ktuner - tuned by Vit

Was looking to get a rear motor mount (dont know if it be worth getting since i have a cvt) and was told cvt does not have wheel hop, but other cvt owners say it helps. Intercooler, frontpipe(is it worth it?), or a new tune- since it was tuned before i had the downpipe?
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87elco

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I'd do suspension or brakes next springs and a sway bar will turn it into a whole different car
 

n2da2nd

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Agree on the springs and sway bar. Depends on how low you want to go, I personally prefer Eibach and Whiteline since they work nicely with OEM shocks and struts. For sway bar, both mentioned companies offer the whole setup for front and back. You can also go OEM route with either Si or type R rear sway bar. Here is my car with Eibach pro-kit installed.
As far as the engine mount, I was thinking about that but have heard that the rattle is crazy on low rpms. If our CVT didn't have the wheel hops as you said, then you don't need the mount. Springs, upgraded end links, sway bar, and your car will handle way better than stock. I'm heading in that direction as well.

Honda Civic 10th gen Next mod help/opinion 20190307_164540-01
 
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Aegean303

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Agree on the springs and sway bar. Depends on how low you want to go, I personally prefer Eibach and Whiteline since they work nicely with OEM shocks and struts. For sway bar, both mentioned companies offer the whole setup for front and back. You can also go OEM route with either Si or type R rear sway bar. Here is my car with Eibach pro-kit installed.
As far as the engine mount, I was thinking about that but have heard that the rattle is crazy on low rpms. If our CVT didn't have the wheel hops as you said, then you don't need the mount. Springs, upgraded end links, sway bar, and your car will handle way better than stock. I'm heading in that direction as well.

20190307_164540-01.jpeg
I think I might end up doing that then. How much was the eibach pro kit?
 


n2da2nd

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IronFusion

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If you haven't gotten performance tires--do that first. Lighter wheels, wider and high performance tires will let you put down the power with responsive control and feel.

Strut bar is a good, relatively inexpensive, way to improve responsiveness and feel. I like my Sirimoto. Steering is balanced with it and I haven't done a sway bar for fear of NVH when the car is mostly a DD.

I haven't done FMIC because I'm not having heat issues. If it were me, and the intake and ECT1 are high but the stock FMIC is dropping temps but you're starting from too high a temp, I would wrap the pipes and get a turbo blanket. Apparently a blanket can add some HP at the crank.

Front pipe won't do much depending on the dp and cat-back diameters.

Co == Colorado?
Maybe a convenience/comfort mod is worth a look? Like a engine block heater or a heat pad. I put a 150W pad on the transmission block to aid in reduced wear and prolonged CVT life on cold mornings.

Did you have to disable P0420 with the RV6? Just curious. My catted PRL needed it.
 
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Aegean303

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If you haven't gotten performance tires--do that first. Lighter wheels, wider and high performance tires will let you put down the power with responsive control and feel.

Strut bar is a good, relatively inexpensive, way to improve responsiveness and feel. I like my Sirimoto. Steering is balanced with it and I haven't done a sway bar for fear of NVH when the car is mostly a DD.

I haven't done FMIC because I'm not having heat issues. If it were me, and the intake and ECT1 are high but the stock FMIC is dropping temps but you're starting from too high a temp, I would wrap the pipes and get a turbo blanket. Apparently a blanket can add some HP at the crank.

Front pipe won't do much depending on the dp and cat-back diameters.

Co == Colorado?
Maybe a convenience/comfort mod is worth a look? Like a engine block heater or a heat pad. I put a 150W pad on the transmission block to aid in reduced wear and prolonged CVT life on cold mornings.

Did you have to disable P0420 with the RV6? Just curious. My catted PRL needed it.
Nope, I didn’t have to disable p0420, no cel came on after install, I think I have almost 25k on the dp with no cel still
 


Hollywoo0220

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Intake does absolutely nothing to power on a stock turbo. The MAX CFM output would be the same. The MAF is the only thing that makes a difference; and only in the higher RPM at peak power.
In order to get anything off an aftermarket intake for a NA engine, you would have to tune in a new AFR - otherwise it's just noise.
A free flowing drop-in filter would provide for increased velocity, which provides for an improvement in throttle response; so, if you begin sooner, you are faster - but not stronger.

@IronFusion mentioned, that a wider tire set-up would provide for better control; that is true. What a wider tire will also do is increase "drag". So, you should choose which application best suits your needs.
 

Hollywoo0220

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Not on a CVT with stock or aftermarket turbo and in CO no doubt. Otherwise, you would have an additional 21-22hp at sea level; granted your elevation is 4000ft.
With TSPs Stage 1 you would be at roughly 223hp or 196whp at 4000ft.
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