Tuning joke of the day?

So if i put a type r badge on, it should make my car faster right???

carlson03 said:

So if i put a type r badge on, it should make my car faster right???

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Mine is a beast now that i have the JDM badges!!

360glitch said:

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I've used things to fool sensors before. Hell, I have a rheostat in with a temp sensor on my Odyssey to keep my VCM from engaging. It serves it's purpose. It was cheap and does exactly what I want... no more... no less.

This though? I can't imagine spending *that* kind of money to fool sensors vice using a real tuning solutions and the functionality it provides... all out of warranty fear. Folks that concerned should stay stock.

It's kind of a terrible analogy, but it's like using jenkem vice pot... because you might get in trouble if they find you with the pot. It's still *shit* though. That what this sounds like. The jenkem of tuning solutions... and that's some pricey poop.

Piggyback Haters,

There is merit and performance benefit with RaceChip.

They do mostly BMW, MB, VW, Audi, German brands because that’s where it started, International HQ.

Instead of making uninformed judgements and joking about stickers, recognize there are several ways to tune, ECU being most direct. This company’s niche isn’t to put fear of warranty impact, they provide stepped performance increases based on one of three boxes selected, top currently is GTS Black 7 steps, lower boxes have less. There’s an app that for $50 gives on the fly (can you do that on the move with Hondata or K-Tuner?) mode changes giving ability to change performance (E/S/R profiles) similar to Type R. That means you could have the R mode in Comfort and the engine in Eco, Sport, or Race independently and instantly. Isn’t that all or none R profile aspect a big complaint of us R owners? RaceChip will solve that so any combo works.

How? Depending on model, the harness interrupts key components, usually two, in some cases (Camaro) three including MAF Sensor as 3rd, without addressing the ECU (whatever each brand may call it) to change performance. They do this through extensive dyno testing and adjusting the tune for each model car, not one size fits all. Tune change updates can easily be pushed to your individual unit or all, good comms get results but not instantly as they’re not going to push what hasn’t been vetted through Corp process as not to impact their warranty (box and vehicle separately).

So, I know a guy who is getting this tune on a stock Type R (Dyno’d 295 WHP) and gained 47 HP, multiple runs close, not a fluke. Since the MAF and ECU were preventing additional gains, another sensor is going to be added to avoid beyond threshold to reach objective.

End result will be the ECU fearing amateurs who want more SAFE performance will have another option in a few months. Grant it, it is higher priced than it should be but gets nearly as good HP gains, maybe better, without fiddling w/ECU, not that getting caught with either type would be good if Honda could prove it caused a failure.

If a catastrophic one occurs, what are your chances of flashing your ECU back to stock vs one that never changed in the first place At best, leaves ghost tracks of something changed commanded readings vs actual but we can’t tell what, no phys evidence since box can be removed.

Even if you don’t care or subscribe, these and some siple ODB2 plug ins can work. I know of a Ridgeline that gained 44hp with one.

So whatever stickers wind up on the back of an R with this future release product, they might be too far in front of you to read as this line is legit. Deal with it, More than one way to go faster.

Stay tuned, I’m looking forward to this product as another option, maybe they’ll have a lower intro price?

(Insert sticker snicker here)

RepyT said:

Piggyback Haters,

There is merit and performance benefit with RaceChip.

They do mostly BMW, MB, VW, Audi, German brands because that’s where it started, International HQ.

Instead of making uninformed judgements and joking about stickers, recognize there are several ways to tune, ECU being most direct. This company’s niche isn’t to put fear of warranty impact, they provide stepped performance increases based on one of three boxes selected, top currently is GTS Black 7 steps, lower boxes have less. There’s an app that for $50 gives on the fly (can you do that on the move with Hondata or K-Tuner?) mode changes giving ability to change performance (E/S/R profiles) similar to Type R. That means you could have the R mode in Comfort and the engine in Eco, Sport, or Race independently and instantly. Isn’t that all or none R profile aspect a big complaint of us R owners? RaceChip will solve that so any combo works.

How? Depending on model, the harness interrupts key components, usually two, in some cases (Camaro) three including MAF Sensor as 3rd, without addressing the ECU (whatever each brand may call it) to change performance. They do this through extensive dyno testing and adjusting the tune for each model car, not one size fits all. Tune change updates can easily be pushed to your individual unit or all, good comms get results but not instantly as they’re not going to push what hasn’t been vetted through Corp process as not to impact their warranty (box and vehicle separately).

So, I know a guy who is getting this tune on a stock Type R (Dyno’d 295 WHP) and gained 47 HP, multiple runs close, not a fluke. Since the MAF and ECU were preventing additional gains, another sensor is going to be added to avoid beyond threshold to reach objective.

End result will be the ECU fearing amateurs who want more SAFE performance will have another option in a few months. Grant it, it is higher priced than it should be but gets nearly as good HP gains, maybe better, without fiddling w/ECU, not that getting caught with either type would be good if Honda could prove it caused a failure.

If a catastrophic one occurs, what are your chances of flashing your ECU back to stock vs one that never changed in the first place At best, leaves ghost tracks of something changed commanded readings vs actual but we can’t tell what, no phys evidence since box can be removed.

Even if you don’t care or subscribe, these and some siple ODB2 plug ins can work. I know of a Ridgeline that gained 44hp with one.

So whatever stickers wind up on the back of an R with this future release product, they might be too far in front of you to read as this line is legit. Deal with it, More than one way to go faster.

Stay tuned, I’m looking forward to this product as another option, maybe they’ll have a lower intro price?

(Insert sticker snicker here)

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Ktuner has had on the fly map switching for awhile and I use it on mine often.

As for flashing the ecu, dealers cant read what's been done to it if you flash back to the proper original tune. Hondata screwed over people because they didn't flash back cars to the proper original stock tune and Ktuner never had that issue.

While on theory if something could achieve additional performance for cheaper price that would be great. However, which is the safer route?

I'm more comfortable with an actual ecu flash tune instead of a piggyback.

Instead of fooling the ecu into thinking the car is running lean, just command the ecu to run X amount from the get go. Why add that extra step? I see piggyback as a more risky option.

DarkLight said:

Perhaps I should put on Ferrari badges. Cause that would definitely make my car perform like a 360 Modena right?

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I use Ferrari Red paint +5hp per part painted

xjoshuax89 said:

Ktuner has had on the fly map switching for awhile and I use it on mine often.

As for flashing the ecu, dealers cant read what's been done to it if you flash back to the proper original tune. Hondata screwed over people because they didn't flash back cars to the proper original stock tune and Ktuner never had that issue.

While on theory if something could achieve additional performance for cheaper price that would be great. However, which is the safer route?

I'm more comfortable with an actual ecu flash tune instead of a piggyback.

Instead of fooling the ecu into thinking the car is running lean, just command the ecu to run X amount from the get go. Why add that extra step? I see piggyback as a more risky option.

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Piggyback is going to run less optimal than a proper tune. Also I think there is no way to control ignition timing so just rely on turbo and fuel increase. knock control is not going to be happy, unless I miss something.

I still use an Apexi SAFC Neo on my 1989 Subaru Outback Sport wagon. Bought the car new in Nov 1996 (last century). It has Ludespeed turbokit running 5psi of boost (previously had a Minnam turbokit installed in 1999) and I ran a NOS dry nitrous kit (Installed same time as the turbokit) with a 60hp shot. The only thing that saved my arse was the piggyback to control my stock fuel injectors and stock engine.

That was 24yrs ago and the car still runs well with the turbo. I'll use a piggyback setup if it works. That simple!

I'm not an expert on piggybacks but I can see the allure... keeping warranty intact, improved power, simplicity. Yet KTuner and Hondata ecu re-maps rule at CivicX. Either that means us CivicX'ers are fools or the ecu tunes are superior, right?

The piggybacks add some power... no one is arguing that, but there are limits to their usability compared to a real ecu tune. For example, ecu tunes can program out rev hang and remove the speed limiter. Piggybacks are stuck with the limits of the ecu.

I'm not saying chip tuning is a joke but a real ecu tune has a much, much bigger upside.

Piggybacks are a great solution when there is no tuning solution for the ECU but there is a need to compensate for some mods. Piggyback as a tune solution is not great, in my opinion, when "for the same price" you can get a real tune solution and not a sensor fooling solution. For some who just want a little more power should be ok tho but I can't recommend it without watching some logs...

ECU tunes certainly offer more flexibility and control but with it comes risk, some user created maybe? While used correctly it can reduce rev hang that isn’t severe (R isn’t close to Subaru zing). On the other hand, disabling speed limiters could be bad, play along. For the uneducated or inexperienced you can select tunes and settings with ECU tunes that can push an engine harder than an experienced tuner might recommend, Re you sure EVERY combo and warning is covered? I’m not. in other words, customizer beware!

Pb tunes establish one or more perhaps safer profiles because they can’t push past ECU speed limiters, isn’t that good thing to prevent component failure?

As far as right or wrong, both work, not always equally as well and the better value (and risk, several types) also comes with ECU.

Some of us mild manner tuners prefer this approach because we don’t know what we don’t know. Think about that a minute and the level of knowledge required for Pb vs ECU.

So with Racechip (Pb) you simple pick a number setting under hood or with phone app, can pick E,S, or R profiles. You can pick which number the box setting each gets assigned to but they must be progressively higher and no two can be same number, i.e.- E2, S 5, R 4 can’t be set as if S is 5 it has to be the next higher # like 6 or 7 (7 is highest on GS Black top model). E2 S5 R6 would be fine.
So, if you follow the German tune wave, this way is the more affordable and in some brands perhaps only mature way to control performance (Pb) so it’s the best for them. I also believe it’s safer for the R. There is no absolute, both work so price is a consideration for most.

How much cheaper would a Pb solution have to be before considering it? Pb open mind or haters will have a broad spectrum of responses and it depends what you’re going for. I just want some increases go and torque without having to spend thousands more on upgrades to run the next big thing higher tune with more bolt ons. I am upgrading exhaust, might consider better intake airflow intake, and maybe an improved radiator as thats always a good thing with a turbo and they’re relatively cheap. Their install isn’t cheap and surely is beyond my skill set and/or patience and time available. So, without messing with certain pipes, cat, or ECU, we prolly both can achieve 350 hp. To me that’s about the fun traction limit on the R without other suspension, tire and performance-athon add ons that exceed my budget. Bottom line is both methods are effective at providing similar SMILES per gallon. I can’t wait u til Race Chip releases this to the masses... who says I have to wait or spend a lot?

Here are owner/user reviews of the Race Chip. They seem evenly divided between recommended and utter garbage. In other words, it sounds like the product is really hit or miss.

https://www.trustpilot.com/review/www.racechip.de

The race chip may seem expensive compared to say, Ktuner, which has a screen and offers more flexibility and tinkering, but as Scotty would say, hey, it's German, so it has to cost more hehehe . For $500 it offers for my ST 51 hp and 53 ft.lbs plus, which 231 hp and 230 ft.lbs max. And, it's "Engineered for a delightful driving experience." No fiddling with computers and flashing/unflashing, and worrying about all that. With easy switching of levels. I have Ktuner but haven't touched my ECU yet, and of course I don't have the Race Chip, so I'm just saying it looks like a competitive product that may be selected by a fraction of people who want a more delightful, fenomenal und echt wunderbar ride.

people can run a piggyback if they want to. It's their car and money not mine.

For me personally? I rather have 350 hp with a tuning unit than 350 hp with a piggyback but that's just me.

Gruber said:

so I'm just saying it looks like a competitive product that may be selected by a fraction of people who want a more delightful, fenomenal und echt wunderbar ride.

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I think this is what I'm striving for right here.
Absolut fantastisch