What causes limp mode at the track?

Dave B

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I know the CTR is subject to overheating at the track and going in to limp mode but wondering what causes it. Oil temps? Water temps?? Intake temps???

If we knew that, we could likely approach a cure more directly.
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Oil or water but they are pretty closely related. Intake air temps should never cause limp mode, just further reductions in power.
 
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Dave B

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So how do the factory race cars (TCR designation) manage to keep cool? I know they have hood vents but is that all that is needed?
 

tinyman392

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So how do the factory race cars (TCR designation) manage to keep cool? I know they have hood vents but is that all that is needed?
Iā€™d imagine:
  • Better intercooler
  • Upgraded radiator
  • Different weight oil
  • Oil cooler
  • Improving airflow
    • Grill
    • Hood
    • Functional front vents (replace fake ones)
  • Different engine tuning possibly as well (if Iā€™m not mistaken running lean increases engine temps)
  • Different coolant possibly
  • Improving airflow to brakes using better duct work (doesnā€™t help cool motor)
  • Different brake fluid (doesnā€™t help cool motor)
Those are what come to mind.
 
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Dave B

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The obvious change on the TCR cars is the hood vents. Certainly if the airflow inside the engine compartment is stagnated, then even a larger radiator or oil cooler may not help whereas the hood vents may really increase the efficiency of the rad. OTOH, not happy with putting hood vents on a street driven car.
 


tinyman392

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The obvious change on the TCR cars is the hood vents. Certainly if the airflow inside the engine compartment is stagnated, then even a larger radiator or oil cooler may not help whereas the hood vents may really increase the efficiency of the rad. OTOH, not happy with putting hood vents on a street driven car.
I do know that under hood temps are a problem with the CTR and airflow definitely isn't adequate going in or out. It's unfortunate for sure. I'm not sure what is a better solution, cooling the engine or improving airflow. Obviously both will work better than either on their own, but I don't think there is enough evidence to say one or the other.
 

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I had mine go into limp mode at Atlanta Motorsports Park during T15. I forget what fault code triggered the CEL but I assume it was because I was low on fuel (~1/4 tank) and the fuel was sloshing to one side of the tank. I cleared the fault, filled it up with fuel and the car drove great the rest of the day.

Like others, I noticed my coolant temp gauge would start to increase after 4-5 laps so Iā€™d calm down for the next lap or two to lower the temps then go at it again. Iā€™m going to focus on both coolant and oil temps this season. My first approach is the oil cooler and a larger radiator.
 

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I had mine go into limp mode at Atlanta Motorsports Park during T15. I forget what fault code triggered the CEL but I assume it was because I was low on fuel (~1/4 tank) and the fuel was sloshing to one side of the tank. I cleared the fault, filled it up with fuel and the car drove great the rest of the day.

Like others, I noticed my coolant temp gauge would start to increase after 4-5 laps so Iā€™d calm down for the next lap or two to lower the temps then go at it again. Iā€™m going to focus on both coolant and oil temps this season. My first approach is the oil cooler and a larger radiator.
Had the same issue. Went into limp mode due to low fuel. I had a full tank, ran 2 sessions and apparently was too low during the start of the third session, highly recommend bringing extra fuel.

I have a PRL HV intake and HKS oil cooler. I had to do a cool down lap after 4-6 hot laps, but ambient temps were pretty cool, around 50F. I can only imagine during warmer months youā€™ll only get 2-3 flyers before needing to cool. I have a Koyorad waiting to go in, but honestly feel getting a vented hood with vent directly above the turbo will help more than the radiator will.
 

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Just installed an HKS oil cooler and Koyorad. Just waiting for a backordered tow hook, then I should be good to try the track. Also believe the vented hood will help, but probably wonā€™t have one in time for my first track day whenever that is.
 

FC3L15B7

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Just installed an HKS oil cooler and Koyorad. Just waiting for a backordered tow hook, then I should be good to try the track. Also believe the vented hood will help, but probably wonā€™t have one in time for my first track day whenever that is.
Bah, you don't need a tow hook. Just don't spin off into a trap! :)
 


AdamD19DFK8

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Just installed an HKS oil cooler and Koyorad. Just waiting for a backordered tow hook, then I should be good to try the track. Also believe the vented hood will help, but probably wonā€™t have one in time for my first track day whenever that is.
I thought a different radiator wouldn't do much when the airflow to it from the grill is the restriction. I wonder how much worse it is with a giant oversized intercooler blocking the radiator as well.

Saw some time attack fk8 with pieces of the front bumper cut out for more air, that's a tad bit extreme though lol. Would be nice to see some results from a good vented hood, more open grill and oil cooler.
 

fatherpain

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Yes the OEM front grill definitely appears to be a flow impediment. Was waiting to see the 2020 grill but unfortunately it doesnā€™t look like a significant improvement from the pics.

Most likely will go with Jā€™s racing though it has fitment issues and is expensive. I think I recall seeing it resulted in a 10-15 degree temperature decrease in Ipeefreelyā€™s build thread.

Not a fan of the manta ray opening, but it looks aggressive and isnā€™t too bad with the optional badge holder. I would like to see one in person first, to see the fitment before pulling the trigger.

I thought a different radiator wouldn't do much when the airflow to it from the grill is the restriction. I wonder how much worse it is with a giant oversized intercooler blocking the radiator as well.

Saw some time attack fk8 with pieces of the front bumper cut out for more air, that's a tad bit extreme though lol. Would be nice to see some results from a good vented hood, more open grill and oil cooler.
 

AdamD19DFK8

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Yes the OEM front grill definitely appears to be a flow impediment. Was waiting to see the 2020 grill but unfortunately it doesnā€™t look like a significant improvement from the pics.

Most likely will go with Jā€™s racing though it has fitment issues and is expensive. I think I recall seeing it resulted in a 10-15 degree temperature decrease in Ipeefreelyā€™s build thread.

Not a fan of the manta ray opening, but it looks aggressive and isnā€™t too bad with the optional badge holder. I would like to see one in person first, to see the fitment before pulling the trigger.
I think it looks pretty good without the badge.

Evasive sells a vented out front grill but it has a redicilous price for being plastic, like $400. Id rather take a router or a milling machine to mine
 

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A lot of great ideas for controlling heat have been covered thus far. There are others that also contribute more than just another larger capacity component.
For example:
Controlling absorbed radiated heat and increasing flow (albeit exhaust and coolant).
By heat wrapping your exhaust path will contribute to both exhaust flow and decreased radiated heat.
In addition, switching to silicone coolant hoses, you also decrease radiated heat through stock rubber hoses.

These two adjustments alone can increase your heat signature longevity considerably more than replacing a component for larger capacity.

Hope that this brings to light options not thus far mentioned.
 
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Dave B

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Yes the new 2020 grill might be worthwhile but an aftermarket one without the big H emblem badge might be better. Sure would like to see some track results from a 2020 car.
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