ebatr24
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2018
- Threads
- 10
- Messages
- 974
- Reaction score
- 732
- Location
- Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 Civic Type R, 2018 Civic Si Coupe
Forgot to add the sub amp lol yes I do have one though (it is a bit overkill but it came from my old setup with 2 JL Audio W3s). Using the amp to cut down higher frequencies, the reason I went with the LC7i for full range is because I initially had it tapped into the sub output. The stock system seems to cut volume from the sub the higher you go in volume, it also seems to be missing higher frequencies which sound great for rap/hiphop but not so much for other genres and I like a variety of music. I switched the input to tap into the woofers in the doors and gained better bass for some songs, but would lose a lot of low end. So I used the LC7i to sum the two signals, it sounds the best I think but it still needs some tweaking to get the levels just right. It has been too cold to keep tweaking it though but I am pretty happy with how it sounds for now.Yeah I've definitely thought about the added weight the whole time. Honestly though, this kilmat stuff is quite a bit lighter than other brands out there. Obviously that means it won't be quite as effective but still, I think it's a good compromise. The sub box obviously is the heaviest part here, but I'll have this set up so it can easily be removed. I'm also removing the oem sub and tire repair kit, that'll save a bit.
At the end of the day this is a car that I want to check all the boxes of an awesome daily driver. It will never be a dedicated track car, and though I do hope to have it on a track some day, it'll just be for casual fun, I'll never be chasing track times.
That's a good start on your audio plan, you didn't mention a sub amp though. Also, you obviously don't want a full range going to the sub, though I do believe I read that you want to use the speaker level inputs from a mid woofer and not the sub. I think our oem amp cuts off some low end frequencies, the LC7i can't output frequencies it didn't have to start with.
Also pretty sure that you'll have to keep the rest of your oem speakers plugged in. One reason I chose the AP F8.9 is that it has built in adjustable speaker load resistors which for our car I think may be necessary. When our oem amp doesn't see the normal resistance load from the factory speakers it gets pissed off and shuts down. I'm just now learning about this stuff and I'm not even 100% sure everything I have will work as well as I expect it to, but my current plan is to disconnect every other factory speaker, which I've already done actually. I'll only be running the components and sub, going from 12 lousy speakers to 5 hopefully great ones.
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