My friend blew his motor on TSP stage 2

James3spearchucker said:

You may want to try Motul's 0w40 XMax(made in France). It is their formulation with the most percentage of esters. I also like LiquiMoly Synthoil 0w40(made in Germany).

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Yea i never used either. I know that both are popular oils but i see them as top tier synthetics, nothing special.

Now there are top tier synthetics with a bit extra that i see as special, like amsoil ss and the plant based oil i linked. Pennzoil, quaker and mobil all make a special formulation which is 1-3% off Amsoil ss wear protection in testing, i use the mobil formulation simply due to availability and costs. (Im not saying all mobil oil is same, quite opposite) I get it for 20-25$/5Qts.

If you are in Motul use this 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T Racing Oil. Dont know enough about LiquiMoly.

But if i were racing id try that plant based oil for sure, it loses only 0.6% shear pressure/wear protection at 275F, thats 1/10th of Amsoils or 1/20th of my Mobil FS.

Do you have data or remember how much? They did the same thing in fa20dit world until they settled to an 350wtq “safe zone” number. It is believed many motors were blown due to too much torque too soon or simply too much torque.

Still tuners have stock internals bigger turbo setups going strong at 500/425 (15k miles and going) and many customers at 400/400+ with no issues.. all custom tunes, no canned ots stuff. At same time knowing that is out there makes me feel better about my 360/360.

@gtman i never used anything ever w reg fuel. But with e51 now i use 1/4 of recommended dose of top lube. I had a weird what sounded like electrical buzz/hum i could only hear when first switched to e51 that either resolved on its own or w help from top lube. I just add 1/2oz w every fuel-up. Dunno if it actually helps anything other than than my peace of mind.

@Lagos what do you know.. perhaps not to set a cel you mentioned?

But i could have sworn ive seen -27% too. Just wait till its colder.. reluctantly i say.

JDMpo0kie said:

No idea bro. I’m a musician and want to focus more on that. I want my first album to debut by the end of next year.

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Any song in the album dedicated to the blown engine?

This may be a stupid question. I’m assuming it is best to tune Ktuner/Hondata when having lower mileage than high mileage is this true or like I stated before a stupid question

saz468 said:

This may be a stupid question. I’m assuming it is best to tune Ktuner/Hondata when having lower mileage than high mileage is this true or like I stated before a stupid question

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No question is stupid. And there's no right answer as far as when to tune. It's just personal preference.

gtman said:

I asked this before in a different topic regarding the injector issue but would using a fuel additive like Gumout Regane have any benefit? They claim it cleans injector corrosion (from ethanol) in DI engines. I always use top tier gas as well.

Also, while I was adding a "most used fuel" stat to the tuning survey, I noticed a trend. Because 93 octane isn't available in California, quite a few guys from there are running ethanol blends. Maybe that and the potential injector issues that could occur is a major contributing factor to tune failures?

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I run Gumout with Regane once a month, just as a preventative measure, even though I use Top Tier gas exclusively.

saz468 said:

This may be a stupid question. I’m assuming it is best to tune Ktuner/Hondata when having lower mileage than high mileage is this true or like I stated before a stupid question

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Personally I don't think it matters. It would only matter if you were having issues with your engine

Gotch said:

I run Gumout with Regane once a month, just as a preventative measure, even though I use Top Tier gas exclusively.

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I just used a bottle of Chevron Techron concentrate plus Fuel system cleaner in both my 2013 Toyota sienna (135K miles) and my Lexus (57,400K miles), and it really smoothed things out. After 1 tankful, both cars are running much better. Both are idling and accelerating much smoother. It says it cleans out both Port and Direct Injection systems. I'm about to add a bottle in my 2006 Camry SE (almost 150K miles)

I bought a few bottles of Regane a while back but haven't used it yet. I've used Techron in other vehicles but Regane is supposed to contain a higher percentage of P.E.A. ...

Thanks to Gotch's post I'll go ahead and use it at my next fill up.

FlexRex said:

@Lagos what do you know.. perhaps not to set a cel you mentioned?

But i could have sworn ive seen -27% too. Just wait till its colder.. reluctantly i say.

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1. That is A LOT of correction. You have an issue with your e85 tune at idle.
2. 25% is a general guide that we go by in the industry.
3. You should do more reading and learning about how a closed loop feedback systems work.

Start here:
https://www.obd-codes.com/faq/fuel-trims.php

And here:


And here:

@Lagos Take a deep breath.. it is purposeful in the custom tune. I was just pointing out that i’ve seen it get high and backed it up w real numbers. You obviously agree its high. Lol. Any throttle input brings stft to within 5-8% again on a cold start.. not when warm.

Im gonna venture and say i seen it in the 30s too, but just @cold idle. But lets see as it gets colder. Its needed to cold start on high ethanol contents. Otherwise issues starting in cold temps.

Just one youtube link explaining the issue and solution.

Lagos said:

Its not just about the ECU tune. This is a 1.5L economy engine. At some point you are going to reach the mechanical strength of the rods from all of the force acting on them. These engines were just not designed to support 300+ hp. Thats why Honda didn’t use them as the platform for the Type R.

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This is the crux of the whole darned thing.

I've been tuning cars, mostly turbo 4 cylinders, in the 30 years I've been driving (man, I feel old after that confession).

The true point on if it's wise to tune something or not is to examine the platform, because it's extremely variable.

The Si is a fantastic car, but I'd call it a handling platform. If you're shooting for reliable horsepower, the 1.5T is not the best way. From the dual mass flywheel, pitiful OEM clutch, higher ethanol mix causing injector issues, and fuel system headroom (this one plagues the FK8 too), there are lots of things that ramp the risk of failure up.

One guy above was mentioning what camps people are in regarding their risk:reward for tuning. I'd say that is completely dependent on the platform you're referencing. Comparing extreme cases of a very tune-friendly engine vs. one that is not, I would push a Mitsubishi 4B11 substantially harder than I would push a Subaru EJ257. The Mitsu will make 500whp reliably on stock internals. The Subaru will be a ticking time bomb at even 350whp.

Step down to FWD cars in the mid 25k range, the 10th gen Si is a great handler, but I've been in some that had slipping clutches off the dealer lot. In contrast, the VW GTI is not as handling focused, but a DSG version can make much more power than the Si reliably and without hiccup. The Si will be lots more fun on track. The GTI will be a lot faster on the highway tuned with no drama.

Noize said:

I've been tuning cars, mostly turbo 4 cylinders, in the 30 years I've been driving (man, I feel old after that confession).

The true point on if it's wise to tune something or not is to examine the platform, because it's extremely variable.

The Si is a fantastic car, but I'd call it a handling platform. If you're shooting for reliable horsepower, the 1.5T is not the best way. From the dual mass flywheel, pitiful OEM clutch, higher ethanol mix causing injector issues, and fuel system headroom (this one plagues the FK8 too), there are lots of things that ramp the risk of failure up.

One guy above was mentioning what camps people are in regarding their risk:reward for tuning. I'd say that is completely dependent on the platform you're referencing. Comparing extreme cases of a very tune-friendly engine vs. one that is not, I would push a Mitsubishi 4B11 substantially harder than I would push a Subaru EJ257. The Mitsu will make 500whp reliably on stock internals. The Subaru will be a ticking time bomb at even 350whp.

Step down to FWD cars in the mid 25k range, the 10th gen Si is a great handler, but I've been in some that had slipping clutches off the dealer lot. In contrast, the VW GTI is not as handling focused, but a DSG version can make much more power than the Si reliably and without hiccup. The Si will be lots more fun on track. The GTI will be a lot faster on the highway tuned with no drama.

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My thinking on this, and this will make some people scoff probably, but is to almost treat it like an NA car. Extract some power and performance from basic bolt-ons, push the tuning a little bit (but pretty much just take the 20psi that Honda said they gave me, but didn't). Leave some headroom and don't try to exploit the turbo platform to wring out every last bit that is there. To use the GTI analogy, I actually just wanted a car that felt, powerwise, more like a stock MK7. I think I pretty much have that now. Those are not super lofty goals, I know, but this is also how I get to work and pick up my kids so it's not just a plaything (though I play with it a bit).

I'm curious to see the new power curve to that. I'm sure it's all done for safety and maybe to prevent cylinder head lift and throwing rods?

@D-RobIMW @Two Step Performance