Building on a budget? 2019 Sport Hatch

tamuras

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Hi guys,

I've been poking around for months but haven't posted yet. I picked up a 2019 sport hatch 6MT back in June and I'm slowly modding as funds allow.

So far all I've got is KTuner v1.2 running eco/21psi. I picked up some Swift Spec-R springs over black friday weekend but will hold off for a little while on installing them until some better shocks/struts for the hatch sport comes out (such as Tein endurapro, koni yellow, or bilstein b8, etc...).

Here's my big question as far as adding HP/TQ though. I'm planning on getting a 27Won W1 turbo eventually after the other mods are done (Cobra, downpipe, intercooler, clutch/flywheel), but I know that the L15BA isn't as stout as the L15B7 found in the Si (specifically the rods). Would it be feasible to swap a L15B7 short block into my sport hatch later down the road so I can push the W1 as far as I can? What other parts would be needed to swap the L15B7 into a sport hatch? I'm not looking to get 400whp out of my car, but 275-300whp on 93 octane would be great for everyday driving and not have to worry about blowing up my motor.

Also, when looking at online retailers for factory Honda parts, does the short block come with all internals needed to swap it over or do I need to piece together a bunch of extra stuff?

https://www.hondapartsnetwork.com/oem-parts/honda-general-assembly-cylinder-block-100025ama04?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUtYXNzeS10cmFuc21pc3Npb24tYXNzeS0xLTVsJmw9NCZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWhvbmRhJm89Y2l2aWMtc2VkYW4meT0yMDE5JnQ9c2kmZT02LXNwZWVkLW1hbnVhbA==

Thanks for the help guys! Glad to be a part of the 10th gen community
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Maroco

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I really dont think it would be worth swapping for an si engine. The saftey margin doesnt seem worth the effort.

Probably best to buy a short block and have it built while you enjoy yours as long as it last. Which could honestly be a long time if tuned right, even with the w1 turbo.

Tsp sells a built short block. Kinda pricey though.
 
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tamuras

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I really dont think it would be worth swapping for an si engine. The saftey margin doesnt seem worth the effort.

Probably best to buy a short block and have it built while you enjoy yours as long as it last. Which could honestly be a long time if tuned right, even with the w1 turbo.

Tsp sells a built short block. Kinda pricey though.
I've looked at the TSP short block, but if I'm only shooting for 300whp at the most on pump 93oct, the TSP block seems like overkill. If I can pick up an Si short block for half the price and have it waiting for whenever my L15BA is maxed out, then that seems like it would save me a couple grand in the long run. MAP seems to be pushing the L15B7 pretty hard and it has proven to be pretty strong for stock internals.

Is a new L15B7 short block from Honda really only $1025? Or is this stripped with no internals?

https://www.hondapartsnetwork.com/o...kYW4meT0yMDE5JnQ9c2kmZT02LXNwZWVkLW1hbnVhbA==
 


Maroco

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Dude! That looks like the whole thing! Thats crazy cheap price! As long as thats the whole Assembly, the swap is worth it imo!
 

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The short block does indeed have all the internals and everything. All you have to do is swap over sensors, brackets and little things here and there from your block. You will need gaskets though, they typically don’t come with them.

I work at a Honda dealer and we had to replace a crv L15BA and we had to order the block and head separate and they just swapped all the other stuff over.
 
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tamuras

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Well damn, I guess I better save some money for an Si short block! Maybe in that case, it might be worth it to get the PRL big turbo kit instead of the W1. There's no E85 pumps close to me so 92 octane will have to do for a while.
 

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Well damn, I guess I better save some money for an Si short block! Maybe in that case, it might be worth it to get the PRL big turbo kit instead of the W1. There's no E85 pumps close to me so 92 octane will have to do for a while.
I’m not sure how mechanically inclined you are or if you know mechanics but I’d honestly put aftermarket rods in it. That’s what I’m planning on doing later. That way you can push the setup harder, safer. Just my opinion though. The si block would and does handle a W1 just fine either way.
 

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Is there really a need to go for upgraded rods or a Si block with the W1 if the target is 270ish HP? (engine,not whp)
 


Benster

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From what I read, our rods are good till about 350 ft-lbs ish but you could always tune out torque in favour of HP or at least shift it higher like the TSP tune does, which would alleviate some of the weakness from the L15BA.

For swapping that SI short block, if you are mechanically inclined, you can do it for pretty cheap, if you get a shop to do it, add at least 1.5-2k$ to get everything swapped over and probably more. For that much, forged rods and pistons might be in that ball park and give you even more safety(I see block notching is required to fit aftermarket rods but pistons and rods are right around 950 US$). You have a pretty good build path laid out though, just need to see if you want to spend maybe an extra 4-500$ to have a block good to handle anything you want to throw at it vs maybe being close to the internal's limits.

If you do it yourself, do the SI block as it will be cheaper and easier to do. If you get it done, I would just put upgraded parts in your block as it will be a lot stronger for around the same price.

My 2 cents.
 

xjoshuax89

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Hi guys,

I've been poking around for months but haven't posted yet. I picked up a 2019 sport hatch 6MT back in June and I'm slowly modding as funds allow.

So far all I've got is KTuner v1.2 running eco/21psi. I picked up some Swift Spec-R springs over black friday weekend but will hold off for a little while on installing them until some better shocks/struts for the hatch sport comes out (such as Tein endurapro, koni yellow, or bilstein b8, etc...).

Here's my big question as far as adding HP/TQ though. I'm planning on getting a 27Won W1 turbo eventually after the other mods are done (Cobra, downpipe, intercooler, clutch/flywheel), but I know that the L15BA isn't as stout as the L15B7 found in the Si (specifically the rods). Would it be feasible to swap a L15B7 short block into my sport hatch later down the road so I can push the W1 as far as I can? What other parts would be needed to swap the L15B7 into a sport hatch? I'm not looking to get 400whp out of my car, but 275-300whp on 93 octane would be great for everyday driving and not have to worry about blowing up my motor.

Also, when looking at online retailers for factory Honda parts, does the short block come with all internals needed to swap it over or do I need to piece together a bunch of extra stuff?

https://www.hondapartsnetwork.com/oem-parts/honda-general-assembly-cylinder-block-100025ama04?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUtYXNzeS10cmFuc21pc3Npb24tYXNzeS0xLTVsJmw9NCZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWhvbmRhJm89Y2l2aWMtc2VkYW4meT0yMDE5JnQ9c2kmZT02LXNwZWVkLW1hbnVhbA==

Thanks for the help guys! Glad to be a part of the 10th gen community
You can achieve this but will come down to TQ not HP and also when the TQ hits. If you look at Derek Robinson (IG: DRobIMW) he has tuned tons of 10th gens and with an upgraded turbo and bolt ons, its easily possible to get 300whp without flex (albeit your 93 needs to be good not that cruddy Cali 93).

Mind you I aint a 6mt but I'm a CVT and I'm at 260ish whp on 93 and 290ish on e35 blend. I obviously have it tuned down due to the trans but its easily doable and seems safe for the 6mts.
 
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tamuras

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Bringing this back from the dead. Plans were put on hold as soon as the corona shutdowns hit. I'm a planner by nature, so I padded the emergency fund first and I had to re-roof my house over summer (longest two weeks of my life).

Anyone with a non-si running the PRL big turbo kit? I'm leaning toward the GT2860RS and getting it tuned very conservatively until I can build my block or get a pre-built TSP block. I have no problem turning this into a long term project.

I'm curious to see how the 10th gen manual transmissions hold up long term to moderate TQ (275-325wtq). I'm interested in the MFactory LSD and gears and how they might hold up.
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