FK8 TYPE R SUGGESTED BRAND OIL TO USE

alvav

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Would you mind providing part numbers for this type 2 oil? I don't see any place to buy this oil. I only see type 2 coolant.

Even if type 2 was recommended, I doubt dealers will deny warranty service should trouble arise from using off the shelf 0w-20 as long as it has the proper api certs, and I don't see mention of type 2 in the US manual. This is the kind of stuff the magnusson v Moss act protects against.

Additionally, API is partnered with ILSAC which works directly with Japanese makes (Honda is one of them. not trying to be facetious, they're a member of JAMA) to develop oil standards. It's very well possible that API certified 0w-20 is equivalent to type 2 in the UK. I don't think the price is any indication that it is better. In fact Honda probably believes standard EU 0w-20 is lacking hence the availability of type 2. EU also pay high gas prices, and would make sense that oil is just more expensive there.

Here it is. As I said, no idea if it’s available in North America but this is the 0w20 recommended in the European manual, not the 0w20 used for other Honda’s.

Honda Civic 10th gen FK8 TYPE R SUGGESTED BRAND OIL TO USE 41DE0D43-DA1C-405C-8541-96CB3FA82B53
Sponsored

 

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Really? They have a long term K20C1 that went to 15% every time that they broke down and checked clearances and what not? Where can I find that info? I'm very intrigued.
If you want an independent Amsoil oil test, I can get you that. No one as far as I know is checking clearances, but I highly doubt that it is causing an issue. Oil analysis will tell you if there is metal wear going on and if dilution is affecting viscosity. So there really is no need to even check clearances.

What kind of oil are you using? Maybe you should be using an oil that prevents shear and oxidation.
 
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OneSickFK8

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If you want an independent Amsoil oil test, I can get you that. No one as far as I know is checking clearances, but I highly doubt that it is causing an issue. Oil analysis will tell you if there is metal wear going on and if dilution is affecting viscosity. So there really is no need to even check clearances.

What kind of oil are you using? Maybe you should be using an oil that prevents shear and oxidation.
I'm about to do my first oil change at 4000. Going with AMSOil myself. Even testing like that, while a good resource, doesn't tell you where the wear, if any, is coming from. I tend to air on the side of caution especially when it's a car I drive hard at times. Doesn't hurt my pockets to change the oil at the intervals I like.
 

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I'm about to do my first oil change at 4000. Going with AMSOil myself. Even testing like that, while a good resource, doesn't tell you where the wear, if any, is coming from. I tend to air on the side of caution especially when it's a car I drive hard at times. Doesn't hurt my pockets to change the oil at the intervals I like.
Just know that max oil dilution will occur within the first 500 miles and sustain throughout the life of the oil. So, if you ever wanted to beat dilution, you would have to change oil long before 500 miles. That is one reason using a high quality oil is very important. Amsoil Signature Series is guaranteed to protect up to 25k miles and that includes against dilution, shear, and oxidation, which are all the major players in engine wear. You may not see where the wear is coming from in an oil analysis, but you will see if it is even happening. I know one person who is doing testing on on an Focus RS, that is at 20K miles on a single change, and oil dilution has been the same level from 500 miles til 20k all on Amsoil. It may not "hurt your pocket", but you are throwing away good oil. Maybe give it to someone to put in their beater lol
 

OneSickFK8

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Just know that max oil dilution will occur within the first 500 miles and sustain throughout the life of the oil. So, if you ever wanted to beat dilution, you would have to change oil long before 500 miles. That is one reason using a high quality oil is very important. Amsoil Signature Series is guaranteed to protect up to 25k miles and that includes against dilution, shear, and oxidation, which are all the major players in engine wear. You may not see where the wear is coming from in an oil analysis, but you will see if it is even happening. I know one person who is doing testing on on an Focus RS, that is at 20K miles on a single change, and oil dilution has been the same level from 500 miles til 20k all on Amsoil. It may not "hurt your pocket", but you are throwing away good oil. Maybe give it to someone to put in their beater lol
LOL I hear ya.
 


FC3L15B7

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What's up fam?


Just kinda been curious about what kind of brand should I use to replace my engine oil on my R what do you guys would suggest? I don't track my car but I daily drive it, sure I have my moments driving aggressively I usually tend to not put a lot of stress on the engine sometimes you can't just help it specially if you know what's capable of doing. Anyways I just want to get some more inputs about what kind of synthetic oil brand would you recommend? Do you need to change the engine oil on winter and summer? I was thinking maybe run 0-20w oil in winter, and 5-30w in summer?
I've always used Castrol. I started using Castrol GTX in my cars and over time, Syntec, then Edge Titanium and now Edge Titanium Extended (API approved, which is what the Si needs and probably the Type-R and other models). I used to be pretty aggresive with my first Intrepid 3.5L (retired it at 306,000 kms when I bought another one) running Castrol GTX and the engine never had an issue and it's the only thing I will use. Not to say Mobile 1 isn't good, but I go with what I know. ;)
 

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I've always used Castrol. I started using Castrol GTX in my cars and over time, Syntec, then Edge Titanium and now Edge Titanium Extended (API approved, which is what the Si needs and probably the Type-R and other models). I used to be pretty aggresive with my first Intrepid 3.5L (retired it at 306,000 kms when I bought another one) running Castrol GTX and the engine never had an issue and it's the only thing I will use. Not to say Mobile 1 isn't good, but I go with what I know. ;)
Have you ever had any oil analysis done on your oil to see what is really going on?
 
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Honda recommends 0-20W for all temperature conditions. The oil thickens as the temperature goes up. All of the civics that I have owned have used 0-20 and I live in Tucson AZ where it is really hot in summer. My cars have been driven more than 200K miles with no issues or burning oil. Compression on my first Civic was in spec after 220,000K miles. Mobil 1 works fine for me and I change oil at 15% service life. I have not tracked my car and if I did I would add a oil temp and pressure gauge. Then I might consider a thicker oil depending on the values.

Hal
Oil thins as temperature goes up, not thickens. Oil thickens due to oxidation in extreme heat, but that's a consequence of the oil being used outside its intended operating range and refers to the breakdown of oil, not viscosity. Also, keep in mind oils reformulate constantly. In the case of the majors (Castrol, Mobil 1, Shell (Pennzoil/QS), Valvoline, etc) those oils typically reformulate to make them cheaper.

...and, again, my owner’s manual includes what I said as a choice of viscosity. And I disagree with your comment of heat not mattering. I won’t get into arguing why. Go to bobtheoilguy’s website and argue away to your heart’s content.
BITOG hasn't been worth anyone's time since the owner and most of the original engineers left. Now it's just a bunch of fanboys regurgitating the same crap they read somewhere else and passing themselves off as experts to those who don't know any better. The amount of misinformation coming from that site is nauseating.

Yes, the foreign manual allows 5w30, we are not in disagreement about that at this point.

Operating temperature of oil in an engine with a properly maintained cooling system is in the 100-120C range regardless of whether it's 20C or 40C outside. There is no need to run a heavier hot viscosity oil just because it's warm outside. It does not confer any protection advantage in normal use, and in fact probably will cause more wear, especially if you run something drastic like 20w50 or 10w60.

The belief that you should run heavier weight oil in the summer is a false one left over from the days of straight weight conventional oils. Because you could only pick a single viscosity in those days, people would run 5-10 weight oils in the winter which did not protect very well at operating temperature, but the oil pump would seize and bearings would be wholly unprotected if 30-40 weight was used in cold temps. Once temperatures began to rise, the 5-10 weight oil was swapped out for a 30-40 weight which gave better hot protection (and the oil pump could actually move it because the engine was warmer at start-up).

Like I said previously, if you are tracking the car, I can see running a higher weight oil since you may see higher temps and more viscosity could help protect the engine, but in normal use, temperature simply does not matter with modern multiweight oils.
Higher viscosity will in fact cause more wear, and will cause elevated oil consumption (which is the opposite of what you want in a DI turbo engine due to LSPI issues). Thinner viscosity oils are wiped off the cylinder walls by the oil control piston ring much more effectively. I also agree that oil viscsoity doesn't matter regardless of how hot it is outside, because your engine's comfortable operating temp is in the 212F range, so it doesn't matter if it's 50F outside or 110F; that's still a lot colder than the engine's operating temp.

I use Mobil 1 extended performance and Mobil 1 filter, whatever viscosity Honda recommends. Don’t overthink it. We all have our preferences and beliefs when it comes to oil. Just use any reputable brands and you’ll be fine. My 2c.
Word of warning: Mobil 1 EP performs very poorly in TEOST 33C/ASTM D6335 testing simulating turbo heat conditions and measuring deposit formation. I would not recommend it in any turbo engines.

Ill throw my hat in the ring. I used amsoil signature, I also used amsoil MTF in the trans. I used Amsoil filters made for their oil. I have zero issues and most every other R owner that drove my car noticed the buttery smooth shifts and engine. I was convinced and only used that oil ever since. These were my personal experiences and Im not saying I am right :) lol. you could argue oil and get some pretty heated comments about oil. That and tires good god don't start a conversation about oil and tires. I would suggest trying the amsoil at least once see what ya think. But at the end of the day all debates aside Hondas not gonna recommend oils that are bad for a car they have to fix if it breaks. I have a 12 year old car now I put walmart oil in because its a beater and its running like a top. Oil is sort of like gas its all the same if its certified cause it has to all meet the same standard. Its just the additives in it that makes it different. Watch youtube videos of comparisons. amsoil, royal purple, redline, mobile one any good name brand oil is all gonna be similar for daily driving. Hell even the amazon branded synthetic gets good scores.

And at the end of the day oil is sort of a BS industry like so many others. there are 40 brands all bottled by the same company. Its like laundry soap. People go looking for the best laundry soap. next time look at the bottles on the isle. they are all exactly the same bottle no matter the brand. That's Because 3 companies make all of them. Its all just soap and a different label and smell. MIlk is the same way. people will swear there is a difference. But I know a person works at the local bottler and they just stop the machine about once an hour and change the label. Milks milk.

These are my opinions and mine alone. Bwhahahaha. But seriously any good synthetic name brand oil is fine.
I have yet to see a youtube video that actually presents scientific data relevant for modern engines and representative of real world conditions, and that includes every bearing test on youtube as well as the Project Farm videos. Those are NOT good resources on tribology. Furthermore, it isn't 40 brands all bottled by the same company, unless you're talking cheap oils made by Warren and sold as Walmart SuperTech, Amazon Basics, or the "new" Costco Kirkland "full synthetic" oils. That behavior does exist, but is not indusry-wide. For example, there isn't a single other oil on the market that makes a PAO/Ester blended oil like AMSOIL's Signature Series, with the antioxidants and detergents necessary to safely run 15k-25k mile intervals. Those additives and base oils are blended by AMSOIL to the ratios required for those extended service intervals. Even Driven Racing uses PAO base oils, but different PAOs at different ratios, and without as heavy of a detergent and antioxidant package. That logic only applies to a select number of oils and is not industry-wide. Furthermoer, some of the "good synthetic name brands" out there like Royal Purple and Mobil 1 make some products that should be absolutely avoided in turbo engines.

Except our engines suffer from oil dilution. So I'll keep between the 3-4000 mile mark.
Doesn't matter if they suffer from fuel dilution in oil, that fuel dilution begins early and reaches a point of equilibrium. Fuel is a low vapor pressure liquid that is released by the engine oil while circulating under operating temp. Fuel starts boiling at 90F and fully boils by 390F, so anywhere in that range will allow fuel to be released by the oil and consumed by the PCV system. The rate of release will eventually match the rate of dilution and willl result in a point of equilibrium. I can post oil analysis reports that prove this behavior, but I also wrote an article on the subject on my site a while back. Fuel dilution is not a valid reason to shorten your service intervals. If you went by that logic, you'd be changing oil every few hundred miles. What you do want with fuel dilution is an oil that can continue to protect while diluted, because fuel dilution reduces the viscosity of the oil and consequently the film strength. In addition, a stronger detergent package in the oil will prevent a lot of the varnish that fuel dilution tends to cause on engine internals.
 

fk8mike

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i use 5-30 oil,my tuner built/tune honda engine for xx years and done 5 fk8 forged built engine and the oem spec(clearance) are the same has k20 8th gen si and 9th si to so 0-20 is water a bit for economical way
 

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I have yet to see a youtube video that actually presents scientific data relevant for modern engines and representative of real world conditions, and that includes every bearing test on youtube as well as the Project Farm videos. Those are NOT good resources on tribology. Furthermore, it isn't 40 brands all bottled by the same company, unless you're talking cheap oils made by Warren and sold as Walmart SuperTech, Amazon Basics, or the "new" Costco Kirkland "full synthetic" oils. That behavior does exist, but is not indusry-wide. For example, there isn't a single other oil on the market that makes a PAO/Ester blended oil like AMSOIL's Signature Series, with the antioxidants and detergents necessary to safely run 15k-25k mile intervals. Those additives and base oils are blended by AMSOIL to the ratios required for those extended service intervals. Even Driven Racing uses PAO base oils, but different PAOs at different ratios, and without as heavy of a detergent and antioxidant package. That logic only applies to a select number of oils and is not industry-wide. Furthermoer, some of the "good synthetic name brands" out there like Royal Purple and Mobil 1 make some products that should be absolutely avoided in turbo engines.
I love replies like these in oil debates. people set on their ideas about oil will say the manufacturer, youtube tests videos, research and anything else is always wrong yet their own ideas that are completely untested and opinion are absolutely correct and everyone else is wrong LOL. I wasn't being literal about 40 brands of oil but you got my point and actually the amazonbasics is getting some stellar reviews to be honest. And Amsoil I personally believe to be top tier but the whole 15k to 25k nope nadda. they have some stipulations on that and warnings. it might say it on the bottle but you better go read the fine print hidden in the web site. Its only if you use their filter with the oil mileage aside there is a hours of operation stipulation and it does not count on server use vehicles which in some fine print they consider turbo'd engines sever use. At the end of the day just use good oil change it at 3 to 6k and live your life. all this nit picking over oil is rather silly. Before the internet it wasn't a big deal now every flippin body is an expert.
 
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alvav

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I love replies like these in oil debates. people set on their ideas about oil will say the manufacturer, youtube tests videos, research and anything else is always wrong yet their own ideas that are completely untested and opinion are absolutely correct and everyone else is wrong LOL. I wasn't being literal about 40 brands of oil but you got my point and actually the amazonbasics is getting some stellar reviews to be honest. And Amsoil I personally believe to be top tier but the whole 15k to 25k nope nadda. they have some stipulations on that and warnings. it might say it on the bottle but you better go read the fine print hidden in the web site. Its only if you use their filter with the oil mileage aside there is a hours of operation stipulation and it does not count on server use vehicles which in some fine print they consider turbo'd engines sever use. At the end of the day just use good oil change it at 3 to 6k and live your life. all this nit picking over oil is rather silly. Before the internet it wasn't a big deal now every flippin body is an expert.

Absolutely right. The European manual recommends 0W20, 0W30 or 5W30. So use a high quality version of one of these and you’ll be fine.
 

CivilciviC

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Again, how warm your climate gets should not affect your oil weight choice in terms of hot viscosity (2nd number). The only thing that matters is how cold it gets.
This is entirely wrong.

For the NC generation of the Mazda Miata, Mazda used the exact same engine worldwide, but stipulated four different oil weights, depending on region of the world, entirely based on climate. True story.
 

CivilciviC

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Hehe. Pretty typical of my posts? Really? What posts, in particular, are you referring to? (There haven’t been that many). The recent ones about the Gross profit on a CTR? I believe that I have mentioned that I owned a Honda dealership until a few months ago (for over 15 years) so, yes, again I was starting fact, not opinion. I referred you to the Bible on oil (bobtheoilguy); Engineers giving their opinion not...you (or me for that matter). It is very well known that manufacturers, particularly in North America, specify the 0W20 for fuel economy purposes. On top of that, dealers put the same shit 0W20 oil that they use on base Fits and Civics in the CTR. THe Honda type 2 0W20 is over $15 a liter. If you don’t think that the oil helps the cooling system in maintaining a safe operating temperature, we’ll then, I don’t have much more to say to you. Oh, and you must know better than the Honda engineers that recommend the 3 viscosités that I mentioned- with the caviat that only the Type 2 Honda oil should be used should you choose to go with 0W20.
I have to agree with what you are saying about 0W-20. It IS used for fuel economy purposes.

And for the doubters, yes, oil is used for cooling the engine also. A heavier weight oil apparently cools better. There’s a reason 0w-40 is a common oil used at the track.

Alvav isn’t lying. At all. Y’all can believe what you want otherwise though.
 


 


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