FK8 TYPE R SUGGESTED BRAND OIL TO USE

alvav

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Yes, the foreign manual allows 5w30, we are not in disagreement about that at this point.

Operating temperature of oil in an engine with a properly maintained cooling system is in the 100-120C range regardless of whether it's 20C or 40C outside. There is no need to run a heavier hot viscosity oil just because it's warm outside. It does not confer any protection advantage in normal use, and in fact probably will cause more wear, especially if you run something drastic like 20w50 or 10w60.

The belief that you should run heavier weight oil in the summer is a false one left over from the days of straight weight conventional oils. Because you could only pick a single viscosity in those days, people would run 5-10 weight oils in the winter which did not protect very well at operating temperature, but the oil pump would seize and bearings would be wholly unprotected if 30-40 weight was used in cold temps. Once temperatures began to rise, the 5-10 weight oil was swapped out for a 30-40 weight which gave better hot protection (and the oil pump could actually move it because the engine was warmer at start-up).

Like I said previously, if you are tracking the car, I can see running a higher weight oil since you may see higher temps and more viscosity could help protect the engine, but in normal use, temperature simply does not matter with modern multiweight oils.
Yes, the foreign manual allows 5w30, we are not in disagreement about that at this point.

Operating temperature of oil in an engine with a properly maintained cooling system is in the 100-120C range regardless of whether it's 20C or 40C outside. There is no need to run a heavier hot viscosity oil just because it's warm outside. It does not confer any protection advantage in normal use, and in fact probably will cause more wear, especially if you run something drastic like 20w50 or 10w60.

The belief that you should run heavier weight oil in the summer is a false one left over from the days of straight weight conventional oils. Because you could only pick a single viscosity in those days, people would run 5-10 weight oils in the winter which did not protect very well at operating temperature, but the oil pump would seize and bearings would be wholly unprotected if 30-40 weight was used in cold temps. Once temperatures began to rise, the 5-10 weight oil was swapped out for a 30-40 weight which gave better hot protection (and the oil pump could actually move it because the engine was warmer at start-up).

Like I said previously, if you are tracking the car, I can see running a higher weight oil since you may see higher temps and more viscosity could help protect the engine, but in normal use, temperature simply does not matter with modern multiweight oils.

Hehe. Pretty typical of my posts? Really? What posts, in particular, are you referring to? (There haven’t been that many). The recent ones about the Gross profit on a CTR? I believe that I have mentioned that I owned a Honda dealership until a few months ago (for over 15 years) so, yes, again I was starting fact, not opinion. I referred you to the Bible on oil (bobtheoilguy); Engineers giving their opinion not...you (or me for that matter). It is very well known that manufacturers, particularly in North America, specify the 0W20 for fuel economy purposes. On top of that, dealers put the same shit 0W20 oil that they use on base Fits and Civics in the CTR. THe Honda type 2 0W20 is over $15 a liter. If you don’t think that the oil helps the cooling system in maintaining a safe operating temperature, we’ll then, I don’t have much more to say to you. Oh, and you must know better than the Honda engineers that recommend the 3 viscosités that I mentioned- with the caviat that only the Type 2 Honda oil should be used should you choose to go with 0W20.
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alvav

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And, if you reread my post, I clearly said that, in Vancouver, he e should be fine with 0W20. Then you throw in 50 and 60 weight oils to prove your point of more wear...where did this ever enter the discussion? And then, you say warm. I believe that 40C qualifies as hot. Stop twisting my words.
 

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I wouldn't worry if you use oil slightly thicker than "recommended". I recall a Civic from many years ago... the owner's manual stated a recommended oil grade, then the next year, Honda changed it to a thinner viscosity. Same engine. Betting they just wanted to massage their mpg/epa numbers.
 


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with the caviat that only the Type 2 Honda oil should be used should you choose to go with 0W20.
Would you mind providing part numbers for this type 2 oil? I don't see any place to buy this oil. I only see type 2 coolant.

Even if type 2 was recommended, I doubt dealers will deny warranty service should trouble arise from using off the shelf 0w-20 as long as it has the proper api certs, and I don't see mention of type 2 in the US manual. This is the kind of stuff the magnusson v Moss act protects against.

Additionally, API is partnered with ILSAC which works directly with Japanese makes (Honda is one of them. not trying to be facetious, they're a member of JAMA) to develop oil standards. It's very well possible that API certified 0w-20 is equivalent to type 2 in the UK. I don't think the price is any indication that it is better. In fact Honda probably believes standard EU 0w-20 is lacking hence the availability of type 2. EU also pay high gas prices, and would make sense that oil is just more expensive there.
 
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Wheel_Guy

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I always use OEM filter.
Indeed. I remember some oil filter review years ago and Honda OEM oil filters blew away the aftermarket ones. What freaked me out was how bad the aftermarket ones were. I haven't run an aftermarket filter since. I run OEM Honda oil filters in all my Hondas.
 

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Indeed. I remember some oil filter review years ago and Honda OEM oil filters blew away the aftermarket ones. What freaked me out was how bad the aftermarket ones were. I haven't run an aftermarket filter since. I run OEM Honda oil filters in all my Hondas.
Honda filters are good but no chance they even compare to the Purolator Boss. Look up the cut open videos. Crazy good construction and filtering.
 

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Ill throw my hat in the ring. I used amsoil signature, I also used amsoil MTF in the trans. I used Amsoil filters made for their oil. I have zero issues and most every other R owner that drove my car noticed the buttery smooth shifts and engine. I was convinced and only used that oil ever since. These were my personal experiences and Im not saying I am right :) lol. you could argue oil and get some pretty heated comments about oil. That and tires good god don't start a conversation about oil and tires. I would suggest trying the amsoil at least once see what ya think. But at the end of the day all debates aside Hondas not gonna recommend oils that are bad for a car they have to fix if it breaks. I have a 12 year old car now I put walmart oil in because its a beater and its running like a top. Oil is sort of like gas its all the same if its certified cause it has to all meet the same standard. Its just the additives in it that makes it different. Watch youtube videos of comparisons. amsoil, royal purple, redline, mobile one any good name brand oil is all gonna be similar for daily driving. Hell even the amazon branded synthetic gets good scores.

And at the end of the day oil is sort of a BS industry like so many others. there are 40 brands all bottled by the same company. Its like laundry soap. People go looking for the best laundry soap. next time look at the bottles on the isle. they are all exactly the same bottle no matter the brand. That's Because 3 companies make all of them. Its all just soap and a different label and smell. MIlk is the same way. people will swear there is a difference. But I know a person works at the local bottler and they just stop the machine about once an hour and change the label. Milks milk.

These are my opinions and mine alone. Bwhahahaha. But seriously any good synthetic name brand oil is fine.
 


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I am personally using Motul 300v 0w-20 and the Hamp short filter. Unfortunately Honda doesn’t have the A01 filters from Filtech anymore.

The hamp short filter is supposed to improve oil pressures and 300v fits my needs for a track duty oil that won’t sheer. It also has ester which means the oil will stick to the rings and reduce wear.
 

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AMSOil Signature Series, Motul 300V, or Mobil 1 should all be good. 3000 mile changes using Purolator Boss filter.
Don't waste oil and change every 3k miles. That's just stupid on full synthetic oils. Especially ones that are made to go up to 25k miles.

Oil is sort of like gas its all the same if its certified cause it has to all meet the same standard.
Please do not say all oils, or even gas, are the same because it they have to meet the same standards. There are multiple base oils that companies use and they are not all the same. Yes, they have to meet a certain level of standards, but some will meet just the minimum and others will go above that. Now the additives are what really matter though. That is where one oil will stand out above another.

Anyway.....

I use AMSOIL in all my cars. They have the best wear protection out of the top brands, cold start flow at ridiculous temps and protect 100% against LSPI.
 
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OneSickFK8

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Don't waste oil and change every 3k miles. That's just stupid on full synthetic oils. Especially ones that are made to go up to 25k miles.



Please do not say all oils, or even gas, are the same because it they have to meet the same standards. There are multiple base oils that companies use and they are not all the same. Yes, they have to meet a certain level of standards, but some will meet just the minimum and others will go above that. Now the additives are what really matter though. That is where one oil will stand out above another.

Anyway.....

I use AMSOIL in all my cars. They have the best wear protection out of the top brands, cold start flow at ridiculous temps and protect 100% against LSPI.
Except our engines suffer from oil dilution. So I'll keep between the 3-4000 mile mark.
 

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Except our engines suffer from oil dilution. So I'll keep between the 3-4000 mile mark.
Actually the 1.5 engine suffers from more dilution than the 2.0 does. I know for a fact that you can drive hard and go over 15K miles on a single oil change in our cars regardless of dilution on a better oil. Independent testing proves this. Even with Honda oil you can go to 15% without an issue.
 

OneSickFK8

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Actually the 1.5 engine suffers from more dilution than the 2.0 does. I know for a fact that you can drive hard and go over 15K miles on a single oil change in our cars regardless of dilution on a better oil. Independent testing proves this. Even with Honda oil you can go to 15% without an issue.
Really? They have a long term K20C1 that went to 15% every time that they broke down and checked clearances and what not? Where can I find that info? I'm very intrigued.
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