Downpipe with high flow cat?

WildWalt

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Here's some of the top stuff that needs to come loose. On the cold side it's a just getting a few things outta the way to get to the 2 bolts.
20180327_000853.jpg
Awesome, this helped a ton. I followed your comments and im about 90% done tonight. I have another 30 minutes to finish it tomorrow. Ill start it up and post some pictures. THANKS!
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lhonda200

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Awesome, this helped a ton. I followed your comments and im about 90% done tonight. I have another 30 minutes to finish it tomorrow. Ill start it up and post some pictures. THANKS!
Glad i could help, hopefully it went smoothly.
 

a c i d.f l y

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Some of us totally agree,
We have a un-catted mock up dp on our car now with our front pipe and a greddy exhaust, once we put it on the dyno later this week we will have a sound clip for you guys!
This is exactly what I'm looking for, but for a 2.0 sedan...GReddy has always been good about muffling the high pitched sounds that ruin the exhaust note. Curious how it mocks up with a catless.
 

luispe7

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luispe7

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luispe7

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nYdGeo

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It's fairly straight forward, but a few parts can be a pain in the arse. Remove engine cover red/carbon cover. Mainly you need to remove the aluminum upper charge pipe that connects to the cold side of the turbo says "Earth Dreams". It's something like 5 bolts up top and 2 where it bolts to the turbo, these 2 are a bit hard to get at.

You will have to remove the intake tube and clamp from it. On the other side of the pipe you remove a vacuum line, loosen the wiring harness that connects to the wastegate and another sensor. This will gain you access to the 2 bolts, that bolt it to the cold side of the turbo. There will be a gasket here, take note not to lose or damage it.

Remove the top o2 sensor. Once you get it off. There will be like 3 bolts holding the heat shield on. One on top, one on the front, I got to it from the bottom of the car reaching up.

Once you get the heat shield off you will have access to the dp bolts (2) and (2) nuts. Make sure to use a good penetrating oil on them. They will be tight and can break so take your time and use slow, straight, steady pressure.

Once you get the 4 top bolts broken loose, you can go underneath the car and disconnect the cat, from the front pipe.

I know this probably doesn't help. Just get a good light and look at all the items I mentioned above and you will see what all has to come off. It's not bad just a bit time consuming on your first go round. Take your time and in a few hrs you will have it off and back together.
I've been at a dead stop for some time now. Trying to disconnect the little harness 'that connects to the wastegate and another sensor', first and most embarrassing, I have no idea how they come apart. LOL. I got it once by accident and have no idea how I did it.

But the actual issue is, thankfully I began to pull it apart slowly, because one of the pins on the male side is stuck in the female side and was stretching the wire across the gap. If I'd have just pulled it apart, I'd likely have a dead car waiting on a new harness. If I could get it apart again, I guess I'd try getting in there with pointy tweezers and see if I could wiggle that one pin out, but ever since, I cannot get that damned connector apart.

When I brought it to the dealership for service, I told them about the stuck pin in that connector, that this was a problem. They told me to leave it alone and that they would not help me. NOTE: we do NOT have cool Honda dealerships in our area. I envy any one living in one of those areas with a dealership that will actually install aftermarket parts for their customers.

Any constructive thoughts welcome. Thank you for your time.
 

fatherpain

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Ack, sorry to hear you are having trouble with the connector. Haven’t done this mod yet... but thinking the connector might be like this one where you press the tab using a sharp pick or flat screwdriver? This is from the shifter panel.. but might be similar..

Can you post a pic of the connector?

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