Buzzing sound when depressing clutch pedal at 5-6k rpm

Noseknowsall said:

was present on a brand new CTR

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Did they take a new CTR out and shift at high RPMs to test? Just curious how they conveyed the results on a new CTR to you, or if you actually saw/heard yourself

Noseknowsall said:

I'm not a techie, but is the Windjunkie/Yexin fix of adjusting the master cylinder mounting bracket on the firewall similar to remc86007 fix of taping the dowel to the rod to the master cylinder?

I took to my dealer, serviceman also said it was normal and was present on a brand new CTR

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I just love some dealerships saying it is present in a brand new one so must be okay. It’s like saying a new vehicle Takata airbag exploded the same way as yours so it’s normal. Total copout.

it’s funny, the first dealership I took mine to for this issue, I went on test drive with them and replicated the problem. the service manager said you shouldn’t be shifting at that high rpm as it is considered racing the vehicle. Shifts should be done below 3000rpm even though redline is 7000rpm. Since You had to shift outside what is considered “normal”, we cannot replicate this issue for you. I just laughed and said okay. In my mind I said I’ll never bring my vehicle back here again.
Then took it to the current dealership who is troubleshooting it. As stated in previous update, they are working with honda tech line still to figure out a fix.

tbobtx said:

So The dealership still has my vehicle since last Wednesday. Though I provided them with the two fixes Windjunkie and Balazst78 had luck with, they said still need to run it through Honda techline to troubleshoot. I was a bit concerned when the master tech working on the car said he was not aware That rotating the piston rod going into the CMC would make any change to the operation of the clutch.
so all I can do is wait for them to work through this rigid system of troubleshooting so they can get paid.

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UPDATE: I still don’t have my car back.
the dealership Said Honda techline only has 1 person with this issue reported to them but the issue there was the hydraulic line was touching a body part or engine so they moved it over. However in my car the hydraulic line is not touching anything. So you can check if this is your issue and take to the dealership to have the problem recorded and reported.
Also, everyone please tell your dealerships when first take it in or when figure out fix to report the issue to Honda techline and what they did to resolve it so word gets out to the engineers. Then these dealerships cannot just say it is normal.

Noticing this on my car as well. Haven't had the chance to get it looked at yet.

I adjusted the CMC to have less free play before engaging, but there was no change. The vibration still shakes the clutch like hell when spirited driving. I think I’m going to take it into Honda, as much as I don’t want to. The vibration is so annoying it makes me not want to drive hard/spirit driving, which is ridiculous

WindJunkie said:

Interestingly enough, I think my clutch catches very close to the floor. It only feels like two inches or so before the RPMs begin to drop and requires throttle as the clutch engages. I haven't adjusted anything from the factory and am at 7300 miles. Thanks for the info and yes please report back any corrections you're able to find.

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My clutch engages higher, it feels like about 3/4 up from the floor before I get to the bite point. Wondering if that's normal for the CTR?

Hi guys

after a number of weeks at the dealership, they finally found the issue and ultimately replaced the clutch master cylinder as the resolution. I have not been able to drive the vehicle yet(still at dealership for other items), so this may be premature but based on 1 other person’s experience, this seemed to do the trick.

here is summary from the dealership paperwork.
Correction: CL001 Miscellaneous Clutch - Replace clutch master cylinder and hydraulic pipe if necessary
Part Number Part Description Qty List Parts Total: No Charge
46925-TEA-A21 M/CYL ASSY-,CLUTCH 1
46941-S5A-003 CONNECTOR 1
46911-S70-003 PIN, LOCK (8MM) 1
46942-S5A-003 PIN, SNAP 1
46961-T8N-003 CLIP, CLUTCH PIPE 1
90651-538-000 CLIP, BRAKE HOSE 2
9050 internal noise in clutch master cylinder Pin-pointed noise with chassis ear and replaced clutch master cylinder and bled clutch line. Test drove with Billy to confirm repair and buzz noise while shifting is gone.

tbobtx said:

Hi guys

after a number of weeks at the dealership, they finally found the issue and ultimately replaced the clutch master cylinder as the resolution. I have not been able to drive the vehicle yet(still at dealership for other items), so this may be premature but based on 1 other person’s experience, this seemed to do the trick.

here is summary from the dealership paperwork.
Correction: CL001 Miscellaneous Clutch - Replace clutch master cylinder and hydraulic pipe if necessary
Part Number Part Description Qty List Parts Total: No Charge
46925-TEA-A21 M/CYL ASSY-,CLUTCH 1
46941-S5A-003 CONNECTOR 1
46911-S70-003 PIN, LOCK (8MM) 1
46942-S5A-003 PIN, SNAP 1
46961-T8N-003 CLIP, CLUTCH PIPE 1
90651-538-000 CLIP, BRAKE HOSE 2
9050 internal noise in clutch master cylinder Pin-pointed noise with chassis ear and replaced clutch master cylinder and bled clutch line. Test drove with Billy to confirm repair and buzz noise while shifting is gone.

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I missed this post until now. Very interesting and thank you for reporting, I think I am going to take this to my local dealer.

I'll report back if I go to dealer

tbobtx said:

Hi guys

after a number of weeks at the dealership, they finally found the issue and ultimately replaced the clutch master cylinder as the resolution. I have not been able to drive the vehicle yet(still at dealership for other items), so this may be premature but based on 1 other person’s experience, this seemed to do the trick.

here is summary from the dealership paperwork.
Correction: CL001 Miscellaneous Clutch - Replace clutch master cylinder and hydraulic pipe if necessary
Part Number Part Description Qty List Parts Total: No Charge
46925-TEA-A21 M/CYL ASSY-,CLUTCH 1
46941-S5A-003 CONNECTOR 1
46911-S70-003 PIN, LOCK (8MM) 1
46942-S5A-003 PIN, SNAP 1
46961-T8N-003 CLIP, CLUTCH PIPE 1
90651-538-000 CLIP, BRAKE HOSE 2
9050 internal noise in clutch master cylinder Pin-pointed noise with chassis ear and replaced clutch master cylinder and bled clutch line. Test drove with Billy to confirm repair and buzz noise while shifting is gone.

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Any more updates? Noise creeped back up? Or is it gone for good?

2018ChampwhiteCTR said:

Any more updates? Noise creeped back up? Or is it gone for good?

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Ha ha. Funny story. I have not been able to drive my car yet as it is still at the dealership for a couple of other items they forgot to work on. I hope to get it back by the end of the week

Okay guys and gals. I’ve had the car for a few days and I can tell you, no more zinging.
Replacing the clutch master cylinder did the trick. Over the course of 4 days, I have run it through its paces at least 3 times each day in different temperatures(cold morning and warm afternoon) and at different speeds up to 70mph on highway.

Once the vehicle was warmed up I did a few shifts between 4000 and 6000 rpm in lower gears and some rev matching downshifts that took rpm into 4000-4500rpm range. Then onto the highway for higher speed runs in higher gears. I heard nada.

Of course this could change over time but it seems permanent....for now.

tbobtx said:

Okay guys and gals. I’ve had the car for a few days and I can tell you, no more zinging.
Replacing the clutch master cylinder did the trick. Over the course of 4 days, I have run it through its paces at least 3 times each day in different temperatures(cold morning and warm afternoon) and at different speeds up to 70mph on highway.

Once the vehicle was warmed up I did a few shifts between 4000 and 6000 rpm in lower gears and some rev matching downshifts that took rpm into 4000-4500rpm range. Then onto the highway for higher speed runs in higher gears. I heard nada.

Of course this could change over time but it seems permanent....for now.

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Thanks. I am thinking about taking my car into Honda this weekend. Would you be able to share your what dealer did your warranty work and replaced your CMC, ultimately providing the fix?

WindJunkie said:

Thanks. I am thinking about taking my car into Honda this weekend. Would you be able to share your what dealer did your warranty work and replaced your CMC, ultimately providing the fix?

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It was First Texas Honda in AUSTIN, TX

tbobtx said:

Okay guys and gals. I’ve had the car for a few days and I can tell you, no more zinging.
Replacing the clutch master cylinder did the trick.

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Super helpful information! Will discuss with my service rep and update if fixed

I went to a local Honda dealer to discuss the warranty/repair process for this issue. Basically I was told to drop my R off and someone will get to it to at some point during the day to review and test, at least two days I'd have to go without the R. Me being there during the whole process, showing the issue, is out of the question, according to this dealer service rep. They basically want to write down notes on what I describe, then follow their own testing process without me present whenever they can get to it. It seems unreasonable to me. I think it would make sense for a tech to schedule a time to ride with me, them being a passenger, and me showing them the exact issue as it is easy to replicate. I realize that for Honda Fits and lesser valued cars they need to follow standard protocol, but realistically how many CTRs come rolling through their garage for warranty work? Probably next to none (They had an ABP CTR on their showroom for $47k, so it's definitely a naughty dealer FWIW).

I walked out, didn't schedule anything. If the job itself isn't too bad, I think I'm going to change out the CMC myself with the help of friends/family. On that note, if anyone knows of a CMC replacement video on the CTR, please share. Thanks