Driver rear wheel stud replacement

Storm490 said:

Thanks! Yea just finished actually. Was much easier than I thought. Just wheel off, brake caliper off, one screw to take off the rotor holding the wheel studs. Popped it out with hammer and screwed new one in.

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This thread has been helpful! I wanted to confirm with you (as someone whose done it) that there’s an actual space for you to take out a single stud without removing the entire wheel bearing.

thanks in advance.

Storm490 said:

Thanks! Yea just finished actually. Was much easier than I thought. Just wheel off, brake caliper off, one screw to take off the rotor holding the wheel studs. Popped it out with hammer and screwed new one in.

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Was that screw rusted and hard to get off? I have a stripped stud on my front drivers and I COULD NOT get that screw off to save my life. It’s just stripped now and idk what to do about it

NSaneeee said:

Was that screw rusted and hard to get off?...

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It really depends on your set of tools.

Option 1 - Drill off the head of the screw and take off the remainder of the screw with vice grips

Option 2 - Use a screw extractor. This still requires a drill to make a pilot hole for the screw extractor though.

Option 3 - if you have a rotary tool, cut a slot into the screw and take it out using a flat screwdriver.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

boibuddha said:

It really depends on your set of tools.

Option 1 - Drill off the head of the screw and take off the remainder of the screw with vice grips

Option 2 - Use a screw extractor. This still requires a drill to make a pilot hole for the screw extractor though.

Option 3 - if you have a rotary tool, cut a slot into the screw and take it out using a flat screwdriver.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

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Drilling it is the easiest way I feel like. If it’s a stud in the rear no problem there’s room to pop in a new one. If it’s in the front, we’ll the hub assembly has to come off and I typically replace the wheel bearing as well. Careful with the wheel bearing on these cars, DO NOT put a magnet near them. One end is magnetized for the ABS sensor and TPMS sensor to read the wheel speed, if you put a magnet near it you destroy it and you have to buy a new-new one

jayy_swish said:

Drilling it is the easiest way I feel like. If it’s a stud in the rear no problem there’s room to pop in a new one. If it’s in the front, we’ll the hub assembly has to come off and I typically replace the wheel bearing as well. Careful with the wheel bearing on these cars, DO NOT put a magnet near them. One end is magnetized for the ABS sensor and TPMS sensor to read the wheel speed, if you put a magnet near it you destroy it and you have to buy a new-new one

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Why would the hub assembly on the front need to be removed? I was tracking that the wheel studs are attached to the brake rotor, and removing that would make the wheel stud easy to swap?? That’s the conclusion I came to trying it out today

NSaneeee said:

Why would the hub assembly on the front need to be removed? I was tracking that the wheel studs are attached to the brake rotor, and removing that would make the wheel stud easy to swap?? That’s the conclusion I came to trying it out today

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The wheel studs are pressed into the hub assembly the rotor sits on the front face of the hub. The fronts do not have any space or hole to back out the studs and there is a lip that won’t even allow the studs to be backed out at all maybe a 1/8 of an inch max. You have to pull the hub assembly to remove the stud and press fit new ones the rears are a whole different story as there is enormous amount of daily light to back those suckers out. In the image before that’s the hub assembly where the whee studs are, that must be removed in order to change the studs in the front. The rotor is what the brakes grab onto to stop the car and the rotor screws into the hub assemble to keep it stationary when working on the brakes

jayy_swish said:

The wheel studs are pressed into the hub assembly the rotor sits on the front face of the hub. The fronts do not have any space or hole to back out the studs and there is a lip that won’t even allow the studs to be backed out at all maybe a 1/8 of an inch max. You have to pull the hub assembly to remove the stud and press fit new ones the rears are a whole different story as there is enormous amount of daily light to back those suckers out. In the image before that’s the hub assembly where the whee studs are, that must be removed in order to change the studs in the front. The rotor is what the brakes grab onto to stop the car and the rotor screws into the hub assemble to keep it stationary when working on the brakes

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Ugh that seems like such a hassle lol yeah so I was hitting the stud out and it started hitting the hub that’s when I stopped myself I just put it back together cause I knew it was gunna be more work then that... sooo the hub stud has to be removed then use a slide hammer to hit the hub out huh?

NSaneeee said:

Ugh that seems like such a hassle lol yeah so I was hitting the stud out and it started hitting the hub that’s when I stopped myself I just put it back together cause I knew it was gunna be more work then that... sooo the hub stud has to be removed then use a slide hammer to hit the hub out huh?

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The proper steps is..
1) before jacking the car up. Pop the center cover on the center of the wheel. Pop the axle nut portion that’s bent into the space On the axle so that it’s able to turn. Loosen but do not remove the axle nut off, good luck it’s torqued at over 100 lbs-ft
2) loosen the lug nuts
3) jack the car up and put a jack stand remove the lug nuts and wheels
4) remove the caliper put it off to the side without having tension on the brake line. Take off the rotor screw do not use a regular screw driver (well you can but you’ll most likely strip it) use a p3 screw driver. ( https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE ) if you get the one from the link, which I highly recommend because it’s an impact screw driver. If the screw is stuck and won’t turn with an impact screw driver you hit the end with a hammer and it will turn on it’s own with each impact. Remove the screw and rotor.
5) remove everything connected to the spindle (lower control arm, endlinks, lower portion of the strut bar, axle)
6) take the spindle to a press and push out the wheel hub, remove the c-clip, press out the wheel bearing
7) press out the bad wheel stud and press in a new one on the hub
8) press in a new wheel bearing (with the magnet side on the Inside.. non-magnetic side facing out) into the spindle, insert the c-clip
9) press in the hub Assembly to the spindle
10) push the axle in and hand tighten the axle nut (use a new one), screw in everything to the spindle
11) place your rotor back and screw your rotor screw back on using some anti-seize for next time ease of removal(rotor screw isn’t mandatory it’s up to you if you want to replace it in.. all it does is hold the rotor to the hub so it doesn’t shift around when the wheel is off and you are working on the car). Replace the caliper and bracket.
12) Attach the wheel and hand tighten the lug nuts
13) Remove the jack stand and drop the car. Tighten the the lug nuts to 80lbs-ft in a star pattern. Tighten the axle nut, don’t know the exact torque spec but it’s over 100lbs-ft of torque. Get a hammer and a flat head and hammer the nut down near the space on the axle making sure it’s jammed into it (prevents it from loosening during vibrations or when it’s rotating with the wheel)
14) replace you hub cap on the wheel and done.

With no power tools it’s a day maybe 2 depending on your skill level. With power tools it’s a day, day and a half. At a mechanic shop it takes me a quarter of a day. It’s not an easy fix as it’s rather extensive just to remove a tiny wheel stud. That’s why always torque to spec to avoid stripping or seizing a stud

jayy_swish said:

The proper steps is..
1) before jacking the car up. Pop the center cover on the center of the wheel. Pop the axle nut portion that’s bent into the space On the axle so that it’s able to turn. Loosen but do not remove the axle nut off, good luck it’s torqued at over 100 lbs-ft
2) loosen the lug nuts
3) jack the car up and put a jack stand remove the lug nuts and wheels
4) remove the caliper put it off to the side without having tension on the brake line. Take off the rotor screw do not use a regular screw driver (well you can but you’ll most likely strip it) use a p3 screw driver. ( https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE ) if you get the one from the link, which I highly recommend because it’s an impact screw driver. If the screw is stuck and won’t turn with an impact screw driver you hit the end with a hammer and it will turn on it’s own with each impact. Remove the screw and rotor.
5) remove everything connected to the spindle (lower control arm, endlinks, lower portion of the strut bar, axle)
6) take the spindle to a press and push out the wheel hub, remove the c-clip, press out the wheel bearing
7) press out the bad wheel stud and press in a new one on the hub
8) press in a new wheel bearing (with the magnet side on the Inside.. non-magnetic side facing out) into the spindle, insert the c-clip
9) press in the hub Assembly to the spindle
10) push the axle in and hand tighten the axle nut (use a new one), screw in everything to the spindle
11) place your rotor back and screw your rotor screw back on using some anti-seize for next time ease of removal(rotor screw isn’t mandatory it’s up to you if you want to replace it in.. all it does is hold the rotor to the hub so it doesn’t shift around when the wheel is off and you are working on the car). Replace the caliper and bracket.
12) Attach the wheel and hand tighten the lug nuts
13) Remove the jack stand and drop the car. Tighten the the lug nuts to 80lbs-ft in a star pattern. Tighten the axle nut, don’t know the exact torque spec but it’s over 100lbs-ft of torque. Get a hammer and a flat head and hammer the nut down near the space on the axle making sure it’s jammed into it (prevents it from loosening during vibrations or when it’s rotating with the wheel)
14) replace you hub cap on the wheel and done.

With no power tools it’s a day maybe 2 depending on your skill level. With power tools it’s a day, day and a half. At a mechanic shop it takes me a quarter of a day. It’s not an easy fix as it’s rather extensive just to remove a tiny wheel stud. That’s why always torque to spec to avoid stripping or seizing a stud

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Hey thanks a lot for this write up. I’m familiar with the steps of all this thanks to ChrisFix and me being a military mechanic haha I’m going to try to save the stud with a tap and die set, if that fails I will tackle the full job. Any idea what the sizes are for the stud so I can match it up to a tap and die??

NSaneeee said:

Hey thanks a lot for this write up. I’m familiar with the steps of all this thanks to ChrisFix and me being a military mechanic haha I’m going to try to save the stud with a tap and die set, if that fails I will tackle the full job. Any idea what the sizes are for the stud so I can match it up to a tap and die??

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No idea sorry, you can pick one up at Honda they’re like $2 a stud

NSaneeee said:

...
Any idea what the sizes are for the stud so I can match it up to a tap and die??

Click to expand...

M12x1.5

Update: I changed my brake pads/rotors last weekend and I also took this opportunity to replace one of the cracked rear wheel studs.

Once you take off the caliper and the rotor, its pretty easy to take off the stud without removing the entire wheel hub.

In terms of removing the rotor, anyone who has worked on a Honda or Acura will know that the rotor is held in by a small JIS screw (it looks like a philips head screw, but it's not). I live in NY and after putting 80k miles over three years, these screws were rusted tight. I purchased the Vessel impact screw driver (Amazon: Vessel Impact Driver Size 3) to take out the rotor screw, but it was still a huge pain to remove. My father and I took turns applying extreme force and violence to the impact screw driver and even broke a bit from my dad's impact screw driver set. It did finally come off after spraying it with WD-40, using the Vessel impact driver, and banging the end of it with a hammer several times. This one little screw is probably the most time consuming part of the process of removing the rotors. Nonetheless, the Vessel screwdriver did help. You probably won't be able to use an impact gun without stripping the screw.

Once you remove the rotor, you can access the wheel hub and the wheel studs. The brake dust cover is slightly in the way of removing a stud. But you can rotate the now free rotating hub to access the area not obstructed by the dust cover. Then you just hammer on the face of the stud to remove the broken stud. Place in the new stud and also it set it firmly on the hub. We didn't have enough clearance to hammer in the new stud, so we mounted the old rotor (inside facing out) to create a space to screw in the lug nut and set the rear of the stud onto the wheel hub. This allowed the new stud to seat firmly onto the hub. It would probably help to have open wheel lugs.

lol replace many stud at dealership before without pulling the hub out.

du ma may said:

lol replace many stud at dealership before without pulling the hub out.

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How?