Beats creating yet another thread on the same subject.
You're right that it's not great for an engine to do that, but it was only enough throttle to get the turbo going in this case. Also, the best check for a worn clutch is to floor it in top gear and see if it slips. A car made this year with 6500 miles shouldn't be slipping the clutch with a bone stock engine no matter what I'm doing, within normal operating parameters, IMHO.
Go tell that to the cruise control when it floors the throttle to maintain speed up a grade in 6th gear.
The clutch doesn't hold the torque at 3000.
When you see that hill coming up, downshift to 5th or 4th
So you're saying that in a brand new car, in cold weather, NOT cold engine, that if I give it gas in the wrong gear I should expect the clutch to slip? Sorry, that's insane. I shouldn't have to treat my car like a baby to avoid slipping a brand new clutch with a stock engine. My 18 year old (legal age!) Miata doesn't slip ever. My 1988 300zx never slipped. My 2007 Si never slipped. My 2016 Accord never slipped. I'm not riding the clutch. I'm not going full throttle in top gear. I'm going uphill at 45mph in 4th. With a warm engine in cold weather.
So you're saying you come up to a hill going 70 mph in your daily commute before the car warms up?
Car is warmed up. Driving for 20 minutes by the time I'm on the freeway. Going 65, wanting to go 70? Give it a little gas in 6th. Hasn't been a problem until this cold weather. Now the clutch slips. Also on the way home, warm engine, slipping going up a hill at 45mph in 4th with a little gas. The exact situations you would use to test if your clutch is getting ready to fail by looking for slip... But it's a new car with a new clutch. So... Shouldn't be failing the "is my clutch getting ready to fail" test. Should it?
No, it shouldn’t be slipping
Neither the car nor the owner's manual instructs you to do that. A properly-designed clutch should be capable of holding more torque than the stock vehicle provides with some safety margin. That's basic automotive engineering 101.
My car only began to slip after I went Flexfuel / FBO. This is an organic disc. You will notice that if you glaze it, it will slip very easily because the surface of the disc is slick, after some normal driving the glaze will wear and the clutch regains it's regular grabbing capabilities. Some days are worse than others, and it really all depends on how I've been driving. I won't slip at all if previous to me doing a very hard pull I was driving like a grandma (Wearing the clutch disc face under normal application) Although I agree the car should've came with a much stronger clutch, with a tune you're making nearly twice the torque and at dangerous RPMs like 2500-3000. It's no mystery why the clutch slips down low. If you don't keep your RPM up you're going to slip, plain and simple. The clutch is weak.Neither the car nor the owner's manual instructs you to do that. A properly-designed clutch should be capable of holding more torque than the stock vehicle provides with some safety margin. That's basic automotive engineering 101.
No tune. Bone-stock Si 198 lb-ft.
It's not great for an engine, sure, granted, but the clutch should not be letting go regardless of what gear you're in and what you're doing. Also, mine slips in 4th, too, so this is somewhat irrelevant.
