W1 Turbo with TSP stage 2 [Moderator note - Don't do this!!!]

JDMpo0kie

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This guy ran a tsp stage 2 with the W1 turbo on it. I’m surprised it actually worked. Idk what his fuel trims look like but that thing is STUPID fast. He was racing an ethanol tuned Si as well and destroyed it. He let off the gas and got back on and pulled ahead pretty damn hard.
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Two Step Performance

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Never do this.

Any tenth gen Civic with an aftermarket turbocharger needs a tune specifically for it. KTuner includes some great 27Won W1 basemaps that were written by Derek, the tuner behind TSP Stage 1 and Stage 2. Custom tuning is always recommended for an aftermarket turbo, but the W1 specific base maps are great.

TSP Stage 1 or 2 should NEVER be used with an aftermarket turbocharger. They are meant to be used with a stock or lightly modified car, including modifications such as intake and exhaust. (Flex fuel required for stage 2, of course)
 
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JDMpo0kie

JDMpo0kie

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Hopefully in 6 months I’ll be ready to drop in the forged internals and W1 turbo plus a nasty custom tune. @DRoBIMW I’ll be coming to you for a tune!! I want the W1 so badly!!
Never do this.

Any tenth gen Civic with an aftermarket turbocharger needs a tune specifically for it. KTuner includes some great 27Won W1 basemaps that were written by Derek, the tuner behind TSP Stage 1 and Stage 2. Custom tuning is always recommended for an aftermarket turbo, but the W1 specific base maps are great.

TSP Stage 1 or 2 should NEVER be used with an aftermarket turbocharger. They are meant to be used with a stock or lightly modified car, including modifications such as intake and exhaust. (Flex fuel required for stage 2, of course)
 
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amirza786

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Hopefully in 6 months I’ll be ready to drop in the forged internals and W1 turbo plus a nasty custom tune. @DRoBIMW I’ll be coming to you for a tune!! I want the W1 so badly!!
No you don't! You don't want to end up in the same position as before! Build your motor out first, than think about the upgraded turbo. Resist the temptation!!
 

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No you don't! You don't want to end up in the same position as before! Build your motor out first, than think about the upgraded turbo. Resist the temptation!!
Pretty sure that is what he said he was going to do.
 


amirza786

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amirza786

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all that money to buy a $1600 Turbo and can't even get e-tuned for $200. :/

shesh.
 


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Internals upgrade is mandatory for W1? I though the stock internals without too much boost can handle the W1 for approximately 280whp....
 
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JDMpo0kie

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Internals upgrade is mandatory for W1? I though the stock internals without too much boost can handle the W1 for approximately 280whp....
The whole “how much can stock internals handle” topic is completely subjective. MAPERFORMANCE had it at 500+. Hp before they broke theirs and I had mine on tsp stage 2 when I threw my rod.
 

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The whole “how much can stock internals handle” topic is completely subjective. MAPERFORMANCE had it at 500+. Hp before they broke theirs and I had mine on tsp stage 2 when I threw my rod.
I see what you are saying but mechanical tolerance and parts durability can be measured. There is a difference between "proper use" and actual capability. Its like with the clutch, theoretically a clutch can hold for example 350ft/lb but if the driver doesnt use it properly, it could be destroyed after 1k miles on a stock engine.

So in theory, there should be an objective idea of what the stock internals can handle.....it is my understanding after reading various threads that the engine can handle 300hp with stock reliability, given it gets the proper treatment and "respect" from the owner. I mean proper warm up, frequent oil change with the correct oil viscosity and standards, no WOT when cold, cool down etc....Honda in general is known for "overbuilding" their engines. Personally I've owned K series (K20A and K20Z) until the L15 and I have to say that it would take pretty BAD ECU tuning to get them to fall apart, extreme turbo mods, or redline over 8800-8900rpm. I still drive my car like its N/A, so I dont do pulls lower than 3500, which is pretty high for the stock L15. Thats why I was thinking about the W1 on stock internals. Plus, I have not found a topic about how much revving the L15 can take. Makes sense as pretty much noone has looked into it, as the stock turbo is more or less dead after 5000rpm
 

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I see what you are saying but mechanical tolerance and parts durability can be measured. There is a difference between "proper use" and actual capability. Its like with the clutch, theoretically a clutch can hold for example 350ft/lb but if the driver doesnt use it properly, it could be destroyed after 1k miles on a stock engine.

So in theory, there should be an objective idea of what the stock internals can handle.....it is my understanding after reading various threads that the engine can handle 300hp with stock reliability, given it gets the proper treatment and "respect" from the owner. I mean proper warm up, frequent oil change with the correct oil viscosity and standards, no WOT when cold, cool down etc....Honda in general is known for "overbuilding" their engines. Personally I've owned K series (K20A and K20Z) until the L15 and I have to say that it would take pretty BAD ECU tuning to get them to fall apart, extreme turbo mods, or redline over 8800-8900rpm. I still drive my car like its N/A, so I dont do pulls lower than 3500, which is pretty high for the stock L15. Thats why I was thinking about the W1 on stock internals. Plus, I have not found a topic about how much revving the L15 can take. Makes sense as pretty much noone has looked into it, as the stock turbo is more or less dead after 5000rpm
Upgrading his internals before putting in the bigger W1 is not mandatory, but from all the blown engines we have seen (including his), it would be a good idea. These are not the high revving K engines of yesterday. There are many factors of course on why his last engine blew such as fuel trims being off due to his intake, running full E85, his driving style etc. His last engine was making around 270 whp if I remember, so he was not hitting 300 yet. We have to keep in mind that this is an economy engine, and although it does have some enhancements (forged pistons and rods, sodium filled valves) over the regular Civics, its still an economy engine
 
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JDMpo0kie

JDMpo0kie

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I see what you are saying but mechanical tolerance and parts durability can be measured. There is a difference between "proper use" and actual capability. Its like with the clutch, theoretically a clutch can hold for example 350ft/lb but if the driver doesnt use it properly, it could be destroyed after 1k miles on a stock engine.

So in theory, there should be an objective idea of what the stock internals can handle.....it is my understanding after reading various threads that the engine can handle 300hp with stock reliability, given it gets the proper treatment and "respect" from the owner. I mean proper warm up, frequent oil change with the correct oil viscosity and standards, no WOT when cold, cool down etc....Honda in general is known for "overbuilding" their engines. Personally I've owned K series (K20A and K20Z) until the L15 and I have to say that it would take pretty BAD ECU tuning to get them to fall apart, extreme turbo mods, or redline over 8800-8900rpm. I still drive my car like its N/A, so I dont do pulls lower than 3500, which is pretty high for the stock L15. Thats why I was thinking about the W1 on stock internals. Plus, I have not found a topic about how much revving the L15 can take. Makes sense as pretty much noone has looked into it, as the stock turbo is more or less dead after 5000rpm
I know people are putting 7k as their redline after installing the W1 on a custom tune. I’m not sure if the basemaps automatically set it to 7 but I know people use 7k with a custom setup. Ugh I hate my super competitive nature.. I want to build it so badly right now but I need to prioritize lol
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