Boost Leak? what to expect?

Nostake

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So Car was running funny so i took to a local mechanic who was used to and comfortable with turbo platforms. He takes a quick spin and says its AFR 16+ under WOT and boost spiked to 42 PSI and stayed there till he backed off pedal in second gear.......(both issues not seen in any log by me or my tuner) told me to take it back to dealership and said driving it like this WILL cause engine damage. So i was super concerned, i contacted my Tuner for him to look at the data logs.

The tuner said im actually having trouble building boost. He says most cars like mine will hold 21 psi at just 2.5mm mine is in the 17-18 psi range at 2.9-3.0mm. He asked me directly if a boost leak test was done. To confirm my suspicion that there is a leak around the IC i asked him to review the last log i sent him prior to IC install and of course the car was holding boost like it should in that Log. Also my car runs a tiny bit rough at idle and although i get no codes Ktuner says im getting the occasional misfire on all 4 cylinders. STFT was the real smoking gun though. STFT goes up to +17 at idle if i let it sit for a few minutes. Under boost STFT goes negative very quick to -15 and i have seen it as high as -25 or -30. meaning the vacum at idle causes more air to enter than expected causing STFT to rise but once boost is going i get a leak and STFT immediatly goes negative. this rich or lean condition is causing my misfires.

I also hear some turbo flutter at around 3k-4k RPM under heavy throttle( heard only with windows down, not felt) but i think that sound might be normal due to after market CAI and Downpipe at least that is common on other platforms and considered normal.

I complained to the shop and am going to give them one more shot to make this right this coming thursday. I did not ask for a discount as of yet, i did not want to press them on that just yet, gonna wait till after work is done and bring the sheet with me that said my engine was going to blow up if a drove it and ask for refund due to misdiagnosis, basically just boiled down to it was late they wanted to keep if for extra day and i said i need it today, so the mechanic not wanting to stay late made shit up, he even came out to parking lot when i was reflashing back to stock and said the car sounded better and started to tell me how i can do my own leak test...... so any advice on what i should do and what i should expect? they qouted me another 300 for test and to potentially fix the leaks.?
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EastBayCivic

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So Car was running funny so i took to a local mechanic who was used to and comfortable with turbo platforms. He takes a quick spin and says its AFR 16+ under WOT and boost spiked to 42 PSI and stayed there till he backed off pedal in second gear.......(both issues not seen in any log by me or my tuner) told me to take it back to dealership and said driving it like this WILL cause engine damage. So i was super concerned, i contacted my Tuner for him to look at the data logs.

The tuner said im actually having trouble building boost. He says most cars like mine will hold 21 psi at just 2.5mm mine is in the 17-18 psi range at 2.9-3.0mm. He asked me directly if a boost leak test was done. To confirm my suspicion that there is a leak around the IC i asked him to review the last log i sent him prior to IC install and of course the car was holding boost like it should in that Log. Also my car runs a tiny bit rough at idle and although i get no codes Ktuner says im getting the occasional misfire on all 4 cylinders. STFT was the real smoking gun though. STFT goes up to +17 at idle if i let it sit for a few minutes. Under boost STFT goes negative very quick to -15 and i have seen it as high as -25 or -30. meaning the vacum at idle causes more air to enter than expected causing STFT to rise but once boost is going i get a leak and STFT immediatly goes negative. this rich or lean condition is causing my misfires.

I also hear some turbo flutter at around 3k-4k RPM under heavy throttle( heard only with windows down, not felt) but i think that sound might be normal due to after market CAI and Downpipe at least that is common on other platforms and considered normal.

I complained to the shop and am going to give them one more shot to make this right this coming thursday. I did not ask for a discount as of yet, i did not want to press them on that just yet, gonna wait till after work is done and bring the sheet with me that said my engine was going to blow up if a drove it and ask for refund due to misdiagnosis, basically just boiled down to it was late they wanted to keep if for extra day and i said i need it today, so the mechanic not wanting to stay late made shit up, he even came out to parking lot when i was reflashing back to stock and said the car sounded better and started to tell me how i can do my own leak test...... so any advice on what i should do and what i should expect? they qouted me another 300 for test and to potentially fix the leaks.?
I'd go with buying/making your own test kit. Who knows when it will come in handy down the road?
 
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Nostake

Nostake

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I'd go with buying/making your own test kit. Who knows when it will come in handy down the road?
i cant afford a compressor capable of the job or i would, heck just renting one is crazy expensive
 

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Floor it, if you aren't building boost, or not hitting boost target you have a leak.
Avoid driving the car otherwise you're going to overspin the turbo since the wastegate won't open because you aren't reaching the boost target.
Check intercooler gaskets, tighten everything, go over it all. If it's still doing it, you have an issue somewhere.
 

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i cant afford a compressor capable of the job or i would, heck just renting one is crazy expensive
I've been a broke car-lover in the past. One thing you can use is on the cheap is an extra 20 lb propane tank if you know someone that has one lying around. Ensure it's empty... spend a couple bucks on fittings then (assuming you have one) fill it with a crappy 12v cigarette lighter compressor. We kept a couple on the farm to be able to re-inflate tires that picked up nails in the field with a portable tank. It was much quicker than running a 12v compressor. It holds right at 5 gallons which is bigger than little pancake style compressors.

The best option is to use a friend's. If you don't have a friend that has one... make new friends.

I've fought a bunch of boost leaks on my old Zs. The main sign is either not being able to build any boost on a gross leak... which would be in the realm of a hose clamp coming off and a hose coming off... or a small one which allows you to build boost up to point but less than what you should... and generally running rich and crappy in the process since you've still got all that air running by the MAF sensor but that isn't making it to the engine. My turbo Zs were all pre-OBD-2 so I got no codes. I would think a decent leak could throw ones on these.

Honestly, I don't see how you could reach 42# of boost on the stock turbo unless the wastegate was stuck shut or something... and it isn't supported by a datalog or your observation so I don't know. A boost leak won't make you run high boost though. It's be the opposite from all the ones I've gotten.

Boost leaks, fortunately, aren't too hard to find if you have what you need. On silicone/rubber hoses... they tended to not have an issue from causing a vacuum leak off-boost... the car would run fine when I was just putting around. The pressure would cause them to leak though.
 


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I've been a broke car-lover in the past. One thing you can use is on the cheap is an extra 20 lb propane tank if you know someone that has one lying around. Ensure it's empty... spend a couple bucks on fittings then (assuming you have one) fill it with a crappy 12v cigarette lighter compressor. We kept a couple on the farm to be able to re-inflate tires that picked up nails in the field with a portable tank. It was much quicker than running a 12v compressor. It holds right at 5 gallons which is bigger than little pancake style compressors.

The best option is to use a friend's. If you don't have a friend that has one... make new friends.

I've fought a bunch of boost leaks on my old Zs. The main sign is either not being able to build any boost on a gross leak... which would be in the realm of a hose clamp coming off and a hose coming off... or a small one which allows you to build boost up to point but less than what you should... and generally running rich and crappy in the process since you've still got all that air running by the MAF sensor but that isn't making it to the engine. My turbo Zs were all pre-OBD-2 so I got no codes. I would think a decent leak could throw ones on these.

Honestly, I don't see how you could reach 42# of boost on the stock turbo unless the wastegate was stuck shut or something... and it isn't supported by a datalog or your observation so I don't know. A boost leak won't make you run high boost though. It's be the opposite from all the ones I've gotten.

Boost leaks, fortunately, aren't too hard to find if you have what you need. On silicone/rubber hoses... they tended to not have an issue from causing a vacuum leak off-boost... the car would run fine when I was just putting around. The pressure would cause them to leak though.
Can you use a compressor that you use to inflate your tires? I have one of those jump start kits that has one of those. It would be cool if I could use it for a leak test...
 

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Can you use a compressor that you use to inflate your tires? I have one of those jump start kits that has one of those. It would be cool if I could use it for a leak test...
Unfortunately... probably not. At least not very well. It moves so little air, that the air may leak out as quickly as it goes in at virtually no pressure... and those little pumps have no tank, so it'd be constantly... loudly... running.

Better to have a compressor w/a tank press up to 125# or so then shut off. Then you pressurize your ducting to a few pounds immediately and listen to leaks in the quiet w/o a compressor running. You can certainly try and make do w/whatever you have... but I have a larger compressor with a 20 or 30 gallon tank and have never tried it. I've had gross leaks before to where I dumped a lot of air in and never budged the needle on my BLD. But w/o the compressor running, I could easily hear the air escaping.

With the little pump, you'd be reduced to probably trying to do soap bubble tests... hoping it holds a little pressure before it leaks so it'll actually blow the bubbles. In the end... you've got what you got. I'd give it a shot w/some soapy water... trying to feel for any escaping air before I spent money on something else. But... turn the little pump on with your finger over the end and you'll realize how little air they move. Even bigger compressors with tanks don't move piles of air. It's having a volume of air stored that makes the difference.

Good luck!
 

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Unfortunately... probably not. At least not very well. It moves so little air, that the air may leak out as quickly as it goes in at virtually no pressure... and those little pumps have no tank, so it'd be constantly... loudly... running.

Better to have a compressor w/a tank press up to 125# or so then shut off. Then you pressurize your ducting to a few pounds immediately and listen to leaks in the quiet w/o a compressor running. You can certainly try and make do w/whatever you have... but I have a larger compressor with a 20 or 30 gallon tank and have never tried it. I've had gross leaks before to where I dumped a lot of air in and never budged the needle on my BLD. But w/o the compressor running, I could easily hear the air escaping.

With the little pump, you'd be reduced to probably trying to do soap bubble tests... hoping it holds a little pressure before it leaks so it'll actually blow the bubbles. In the end... you've got what you got. I'd give it a shot w/some soapy water... trying to feel for any escaping air before I spent money on something else. But... turn the little pump on with your finger over the end and you'll realize how little air they move. Even bigger compressors with tanks don't move piles of air. It's having a volume of air stored that makes the difference.

Good luck!
Aw.. crap. There goes the solution I thought I had!

Slightly off topic- how does one know they have a boost leak? Aside from not making boost of course. Can you see this from a datalog?

I know the OP has a pretty detailed story, but I'm not that well versed in all this stuff yet.
 

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Aw.. crap. There goes the solution I thought I had!

Slightly off topic- how does one know they have a boost leak? Aside from not making boost of course. Can you see this from a datalog?

I know the OP has a pretty detailed story, but I'm not that well versed in all this stuff yet.
Low observed boost and a lack of power. Sometimes you'll run poor (more on that in a moment). If it's gross to where it's also a vacuum leak off boost... you'll run poorly there as well.

On the running poor front... you have, in boost... air passing by the MAF sensor, but then leaving through the leak somewhere in the ducting... at where one piece connects to another unless there's a hole from randmon misadventure. This means the car will add more fuel than what is needed for the proper AF mixture... since some volume of air is not making it to the engine. End result... you run right. Just like how a BOV does... if you've ever read up on that. The BOV venting pressure to the environment... air that passed by the MAF sensor does the same thing... but the effect is isolated to the moment of the off/then back on the throttle where you can get a hesitation.

For a vacuum leak side... when off-bosst where the engine is running in a vacuum... air being pulled in from the engine's vacuum downstream the MAF sensor will not be seen by it. This extra air compared to the amount of fuel would create a lean condition.

Honestly... I'm a little less knowledgeable about the datalog side. Datalogs will show AFRs... but if they're depending on sensor data from the MAF sensor alone, then I'd assume they'd still read like they're ok. If there's something that a standalone, then it should show something. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in with that. My extent of reviewing datalogs has been pretty limited to looking at k.cont… IATs... that sort of thing. Some folks dial in their own LTFT and STFTs to try and perfect a tune.
 

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I've fought a bunch of boost leaks on my old Zs. The main sign is either not being able to build any boost on a gross leak... which would be in the realm of a hose clamp coming off and a hose coming off... or a small one which allows you to build boost up to point but less than what you should... and generally running rich and crappy in the process since you've still got all that air running by the MAF sensor but that isn't making it to the engine. My turbo Zs were all pre-OBD-2 so I got no codes. I would think a decent leak could throw ones on these.
This is a good point. Didn't think of the overly rich condition from the already measured air not reaching the engine. I don't recall my datalogs getting richer up top but it's worth a look when I get home. Thanks!
 

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This is a good point. Didn't think of the overly rich condition from the already measured air not reaching the engine. I don't recall my datalogs getting richer up top but it's worth a look when I get home. Thanks!
Yep. That air is still going by the MAF sensor before it leaks out. I don’t know if the AFR bases it on MAF measured air vs injected fuel and provides a readout, assuming the the air is actually making it all the way into the engine. I kind of don’t know how all of that works, unless there’s a stand alone meter. If it’s a stand alone, then it might show something. If you pull your plugs you might be able to see indications of having run rich by reading them. The plugs should look uniform. If they don’t, then usually it’s a injector issue, limited to that single injector.

Admittedly, this is all old port-injector Z car experience, but it should all still apply.
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