Ultimate Racing Fuel Pump Kit

https://www.ultimate-racing.com/pro...l-pump-kit-for-return-style-fuel-systems-only

https://www.ultimate-racing.com/pro...l-pump-kit-for-return-style-fuel-systems-only

and following.... TY for posting this.

Okay, but isn't the limitation the HPFP? so the low end wouldn't matter hardly at all?

Will this help with fuel starvation?

interested if this would help with our fueling issue? @REDSTAR Correct me if I am wrong but since you've done business with them im interested in your input.

Yeah, just received my kit in the mail today. Going to have to figure out a few things with the lines because I have the PRL flex fuel on my R. Also, going to need to figure out where to get the signal wire from that flex fuel kit so I can tap into it for the Split Second Controller to read the ethanol content.

Once I get this up and running I will do a stock turbo test and see what kind of power it puts down before moving on.

If anyone already has the answer to my questions above... please chime in.

Cheers.

Just to clarify I am using the Radium Port injection kit.

Purple Drink said:

Yeah, just received my kit in the mail today. Going to have to figure out a few things with the lines because I have the PRL flex fuel on my R. Also, going to need to figure out where to get the signal wire from that flex fuel kit so I can tap into it for the Split Second Controller to read the ethanol content.

Once I get this up and running I will do a stock turbo test and see what kind of power it puts down before moving on.

If anyone already has the answer to my questions above... please chime in.

Cheers.

Just to clarify I am using the Radium Port injection kit.

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any update on this? how did the install go?

RBrackett said:

any update on this? how did the install go?

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Well .... because of me running a PRL flex fuel kit with this I had to make a lot of my own custom lines. Also, when running straight E85 I had to modify the pump, move the Venturi jet to the return, add a radium saddle style pick up and modify bucket quite a bit to support my needs.

The Split Second has been a bit difficult to get 100%. Pump gas... no problems.... E85 blends open up a whole different can of worms as it wants to fight with the Hondata over who gets to supply the fuel.

Honestly, just get a Motech and add the additional injectors. LOL

The difference right now between 93pump and full E85 is about 60-70whp.

Been busy at work lately and haven't had a chance to post.

Sorry.

Purple Drink said:

Well .... because of me running a PRL flex fuel kit with this I had to make a lot of my own custom lines. Also, when running straight E85 I had to modify the pump, move the Venturi jet to the return, add a radium saddle style pick up and modify bucket quite a bit to support my needs.

The Split Second has been a bit difficult to get 100%. Pump gas... no problems.... E85 blends open up a whole different can of worms as it wants to fight with the Hondata over who gets to supply the fuel.

Honestly, just get a Motech and add the additional injectors. LOL

The difference right now between 93pump and full E85 is about 60-70whp.

Been busy at work lately and haven't had a chance to post.

Sorry.

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No worries! I'm looking into PI on 93 pump. i'd love a motec but that price is killing me esp since i wouldn't be able to tune it myself. UR has everything to set up PI but i still need to do more research since this would be the first time going PI

RBrackett said:

No worries! I'm looking into PI on 93 pump. i'd love a motec but that price is killing me esp since i wouldn't be able to tune it myself. UR has everything to set up PI but i still need to do more research since this would be the first time going PI

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If you think Motech will be difficult ..... a Split Second Box is way worse. Also, UR's Bin file for the SS controller is not perfect and will require a bit of tuning + the addition of a few new calibrations and breakpoints.

I'd offer my file as a starting point but I can't.... I don't own the file. Out of respect thats my tuner's property.

Purple Drink said:

If you think Motech will be difficult ..... a Split Second Box is way worse. Also, UR's Bin file for the SS controller is not perfect and will require a bit of tuning + the addition of a few new calibrations and breakpoints.

I'd offer my file as a starting point but I can't.... I don't own the file. Out of respect thats my tuner's property.

Click to expand...

I thought the same but ~2k for the PI (let's say another generous 2k in professional tuning) so for 4k I should be set. That's almost still 50% cheaper than a motec ECU which I would still need a professional tune and still need to upgrade the fuel system.

Again I've never messed around with PI or Motec so that's kinda over my head. Maybe I'm missing something? I'm seriously a noob on both those topics.

RBrackett said:

I thought the same but ~2k for the PI (let's say another generous 2k in professional tuning) so for 4k I should be set. That's almost still 50% cheaper than a motec ECU which I would still need a professional tune and still need to upgrade the fuel system.

Again I've never messed around with PI or Motec so that's kinda over my head. Maybe I'm missing something? I'm seriously a noob on both those topics.

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I would try not to look at the dollars and just look at what will ultimately cause less issues long term. The PI like I am running .... well there is maybe 3-4 people doing this and not many answers for some of the road blocks you will face. Make note your still going to need a Hondata or Ktuner to pair with it.

Motech does offer DI and PI controls without any additional controllers from my knowledge.

But If you are just staying pump... why not go with the Hondata fuel upgrade? That will make you the same numbers as a external PI system unless your planning on a big turbo. Stock or stock upgraded turbos both will receive plenty of fueling from Hondata's setup with no E85.

Not trying to talk you out of PI..... its on hell of a mod and will give you more fuel than you will ever need. One day I plan to go with a built block and bigger turbo though... so I could justify it for myself.

See if you can gets Derek's opinion at InnovativeMotorWorks. He has tuned a lot of different setups on the R and can guide you to what best suits your needs.

Purple Drink said:

I would try not to look at the dollars and just look at what will ultimately cause less issues long term. The PI like I am running .... well there is maybe 3-4 people doing this and not many answers for some of the road blocks you will face. Make note your still going to need a Hondata or Ktuner to pair with it.

Motech does offer DI and PI controls without any additional controllers from my knowledge.

But If you are just staying pump... why not go with the Hondata fuel upgrade? That will make you the same numbers as a external PI system unless your planning on a big turbo. Stock or stock upgraded turbos both will receive plenty of fueling from Hondata's setup with no E85.

Not trying to talk you out of PI..... its on hell of a mod and will give you more fuel than you will ever need. One day I plan to go with a built block and bigger turbo though... so I could justify it for myself.

See if you can gets Derek's opinion at InnovativeMotorWorks. He has tune a lot of different setups on the R and can guide you to what best suits your needs.

Click to expand...

well said about the the outcome vs $. I already have the Ktuner and will be FBO in the near future (all PRL parts are already ordered but all back ordered) which is also why i haven't entertained the idea of switching to Hondata with the Fuel system. i also plan to have my motor built and put in the upcoming PRL P600 turbo. Built motor would be next on the list then Turbo/fuel upgrade (unless i can safely use it on the stock fuel set up but i'm dubious about that) but this is all maybe 12mths out but wanted to start looking into now. granted the easiest way would be Motec with the PI upgrade and let Motec handle everything. but 6k+ for a motec or 6k+ for a built motor, i guess thats really want i'm debating on.

yea i can get more power out of the motor with a Motec tune but i would still need to upgrade the fuel and get the motor built. my head hurts lol

RBrackett said:

I thought the same but ~2k for the PI (let's say another generous 2k in professional tuning) so for 4k I should be set. That's almost still 50% cheaper than a motec ECU which I would still need a professional tune and still need to upgrade the fuel system.

Click to expand...

Bandaids only last so long.. is going to be a lot more when that SS box fails and your injectors shut off during a pull.

turbociv910 said:

Bandaids only last so long.. is going to be a lot more when that SS box fails and your injectors shut off during a pull.

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Now thats not a completely true statement and I can elaborate as to why...

The factory ECU responds at a super fast rate. If it notices sharp moment in the AFR targets it will respond faster than the event regardless if the sharp movement is positive or negative. I had one accidental SS failure and because of it I ran some test with the same result as the accident.

My accidental failure happened when I started making around 26-28lbs on my turbo (I say my turbo because its a one off based off my design). During one of my pulls the boost reference line going to the SS blew off. With no boost reference the SS doesn't know what to do and fuel drops off instantly but because of my target AFR set with the Hondata the Factory ECU responded by adding fuel duty and second by pulling timing & boost. Needless to say the quick event caused the car to fall on its face slightly and did make me poop my pants. Lucky enough no damage. I've a ran compression test since the event and also done about 200 more pulls.

I knew some people would want information and I never like giving false information or not have a untested answer.

The SS is safe with the right tune supporting it within the factory ecu. My average fuel duty is 75-80% during pulls. I does work.....

But yes, it is a bandaid. The bandaid may not fail but a better fix is a Motech or Syvecs. Both control additional injectors and both retain all factory features.

Once I've learned the limits of the factory ECU and Hondata.... I will move onto a larger turbo and built block. For now, I will settle for my current HP which I will disclose at a later time (during a build page).

Fyi, my Type R has 11,000 miles on it as of now and it has not seen much normal driving (except when stuck in traffic). I think Ive done over 300 pulls come to think of it. My recipe for a healthy motor works:

- Always watch your EGT and IAT from the moment you leave the driveway (drive like a granny till temps are ideal)
- Change your oil every 1500miles or after a long night of racing (especially if using E85) I run Motul 8100 X-cess
- Re gap spark plugs every oil change. If one looks odd replace all 4.
- Avoid launching on stock internals and don't use anti-lag
- Ditch the factory clutch asap, I don't trust them (no matter the car). My go to is a twin disc but there are cheaper options.
- Lastly and most importantly, your tuner always knows best. I always follow my tuners lead.

I apologize for the long write up but I was bored and had not much else to do. Waiting for 10-11pm when the things cool down so I can go get some gas and do some more pulls for data.